Kato 4 way crossover stalling

[Cris]

Hi, have n scale dcc kato unitrack layout. Having trouble w Kato unitrack #20210 4 way crossover. Locomotive stalls @ low speeds when crossing over from north inner rail to south outer section. Same stall also occurs when going from S outer section to N inner rail section. With higher throttle setting, no problem in either direction.
  Frustrating, because when The locomotive travels from N outer rail to S inner rail & from S outer rail to N inner track, there is no stalling/hesitation, regardless of throttle speed.
  Have cleaned track, but nothing changes. Any suggestion on cause & steps I can take to rectify?
 Thanks, Cris
Sent from my iPhone

[Steveruger45]

I have a couple of these on my layout.  There are contact switches inside that polarizes the track power where it needs to go upon operating the route.   If the track is not glued down or is easily removable you can access the inner workings from the back to see what’s wrong and fix it.
If not removable  try squirting some plastic safe contact cleaner down inside and manually work the turn outs back and forth, you might be lucky and it is just a dirty contact.

[RBrodzinsky]

Do you feeders on all four legs? The Kato double crossover does not have power continuity between legs.

[Steveruger45]

Yes, Rick is right, I just assumed you had all legs powered, if you don’t that could cause what you’re seeing.  That would be the first step to check for sure.

[peteski]

Also, what locomotive (Brand, model) is it?  DC or DCC powered? Do you have other locos that traverse that area problem-free?

[Cris]

Will check to confirm feeders aligned

[Cris]

 Hi, did check a few things on the crossover.
   *First-feeders are installed on all 4 rails.
   *Checked with quarter all 4 tracks on crossover have power
   *ran kato/atlas & Bachman DCC diesels w following results:
       Kato ran best @ lowest speed-didn’t hesitate until below 1 throttle setting
       Both Atlas/Bachman hesitates/stopped at 2.5 throttle speed
   Seems like the Loco stopped when front loco wheels traveling S to N crossing lost electricity prior to center frog, then re- electrifies when locos rear wheels clear track where front wheels stalled.
On return N to S crossover front wheels cleared mid frog & stalled when front wheels seemed to reach same spot where front wheels made when traveling S to N.

[Steveruger45]

Is the good (kato) loco a 12 wheel and/or longer loco than the others?
Anyway, I would first check the double cross-over for continuity on all applicable rails, in all switch point positions, you could still have a dirty internal switch connection in the cross-over which a longer loco can still negotiate but a shorter wheelbase with fewer wheels loco has trouble with, if so clean the double crossover out by spraying some plastic safe electronic cleaner in and work the points manually few times until good readings.
Failing that check your problem locos have wheels in gauge and/or have a good pickup contact.

[peteski]

If you had an old-style grain-of-wheat 12V light bulb, like ones used as headlights in older N scale models, you could use it as a tester.  Since in DCC there is always power to the track, you could just touch the bulb's leads to each opposite pair of metal tracks, and see if the bulb lights up.

[nscalbitz]

hi,
A friend had 7 of these on his layout.
Cleaning has to reach inside rail heads, vacuum clean away debri.
Tighten points.
If necessary, clean with Goo or ISO (we use 90% here) especially on frogs.
Never had problems again for months.
There's lots of invisible gunk collecting along there...
best, dave

[davefoxx]

If you had an old-style grain-of-wheat 12V light bulb, like ones used as headlights in older N scale models, you could use it as a tester.  Since in DCC there is always power to the track, you could just touch the bulb's leads to each opposite pair of metal tracks, and see if the bulb lights up.

I've got a Life-Like Circuit Tester, which is essentially what Pete is describing.  I've had this thing for probably twenty-five or thirty years, and it has been indispensable when it comes to checking trackwork for conductivity.  I've even used it to check frogs when powering them through a Hex Frog Juicer.  So, if you've got a 12V bulb lying around, build a circuit tester.



DFF

[peteski]

I've got a Life-Like Circuit Tester, which is essentially what Pete is describing.  I've had this thing for probably twenty-five or thirty years, and it has been indispensable when it comes to checking trackwork for conductivity.  I've even used it to check frogs when powering them through a Hex Frog Juicer.  So, if you've got a 12V bulb lying around, build a circuit tester.



DFF

Yes, that is perfect!
Even if the model RR version is not handy, any automotive parts store carries inexpensive voltage testers, very similar to this one.  They usually look like screwdriver with a light bulb in the transparent handle, and a wire with an alligator clip sticking out of the back of the handle.  These have a 14V bulb in them and would work perfectly fine for model RR purposes.

[nkalanaga]

Peteski:  The 12V bulb is what I've used for 50 years.  Works fine, costs nothing, and I have plenty of extras if it burns out, or gets lost.

[peteski]

Peteski:  The 12V bulb is what I've used for 50 years.  Works fine, costs nothing, and I have plenty of extras if it burns out, or gets lost.

Sure, you have them, and I have 'em, but we don't know what Cris has in his spare parts box.
That's why after DFF mentioned a simple Life Like voltage tested I chimed in with the automotive version. Being the anal person that I am, I stated that it most likely will have a bulb rated for 14V (since that is what most automotive bulbs are rated - running alternator produces around 13.8V)  A 12V, or 14V (or even 24V) bulb would work as a voltage indicator for N scale model trains (DC and DCC).  It's all good! 

[davefoxx]

In case you’re curious, the Life-Like circuit tester is rated for 12V to 18V, which is perfect for DCC.

DFF