N scale steam

[mike_lawyer]

The Kato Mikado I was looking at today was a 126-0107 I take it that's a first run?Is this a run that should be avoided?I have the D51 Japanese steamer that runs great.

Yes, that is from the first run.  There are a few from the second and third runs on eBay right now.  A Kato Mikado will run very similarly to your D51.

[brokemoto]

My best is the ancient MRC (Rowa?) 2-8-8-2

The RR versions were basically the same.  Spookshow grades all of them "A".  They did run well, for as long as they ran. The slow speed control was excellent.  They were excellent pullers.  The prototype rarely ran at speeds above thirty miles per hour, as they would vibrate at speeds above that. N&W used many of them as helpers.  This is one reason why the trailing truck looks like an afterthought.  The purpose of the trailing truck on a helper is to cut down on driver tire wear when the locomotive is running light in reverse.   

Sadly, all of these,  even the later RR versions were subject to frame rot.  I had one frame break in three pieces while the thing was running.  I had another one that had part of the frame turn to powder in my hands.  Only one of the three that I ever had survived.  As I had stopped running big steam, I sold the thing on FeePay.

 I sold it on FeePay "AS-IS", with the warning about the inherent manufacturing flaw.  Someone bought it and there was a serious sniping war at the end of the auction.  It went for far more than I had thought that it was worth.  Apparently, it did not last long for whoever bought it, because shortly after it showed up, he had a problem with it and demanded that I do something about it.  I reminded him that I had stated several times in the text of the auction, and, at least one of those times in CAPSLOCK, that this was an "AS-IS" sale and that there were inherent manufacturing flaws.  FeePay actually took my side in the refund dispute, although it refused to remove the negative feedback.  That was the only negative that I ever had on FeePay.

[ns737]

I had one of the RR 2-8-8-2's. I made a mold of the frame and made a new frame for it. It still runs great today.

[porkypine52]

For engine [steam-diesel-electric] reviews go to SPOOKSHOW.  Honest reviews and REAL issues, good or bad, about power units.  Not some magazine review, that doesn't hurt advertisers.  Go to SPOOKSHOW : http://www.spookshow.net/trainstuff.html .

[mmagliaro]

I had one of the RR 2-8-8-2's. I made a mold of the frame and made a new frame for it. It still runs great today.

Whoa.... what did you make the frame out of, and do you still have the mold?  I would bet there would be a lot of people
interested in replacement frames for these.

[ns737]

sorry that was 12 yrs ago. the mold is gone and a club member now has that engine. we melted down lead fishing sinkers. to make the frame.

[jdcolombo]

Uh, before I could make any recommendations, I'd need to know the following:

1.  DCC or DC (or don't care?)  A lot of engines that have been suggested, like the Kato Mike, are DC only, unless you do a DCC conversion yourself, which isn't something I'd recommend for a first-timer.

2.  Minimum track radius?  Yeah, a lot of steam locos SAY they will run on a 9.75" radius, or maybe an 11" radius; but larger steam runs better on larger radii - like 12" minimum and 15" for optimal operation.

John C.

[propmeup1]

That can be a mixed bag. I have some old stuff that runs great every time and new locos that become shelf queens in a hurry.  Old for me in a Concor 4-6-4 I got in the late 70's. Runs great. I have four Bachmann 2-8-8-4 EM-1s that all run great.  BLI PRR M1s, all six run great and the three T1s do as well once the bugs were worked out.  The New BLI 2-8-2 is excellent.   Some duds, Rivorossi can be so so but I have some good runners too. Most of my newer Bachmann is very good. Old Bachmann, no way, trash.
    So it comes down to a mixed bag of things and I think some times luck of the draw.   I've seen great running engines and the next guy buys it and it won't get out of it's own way. 

[Mark5]

The RR versions were basically the same.  -snip- The prototype rarely ran at speeds above thirty miles per hour, as they would vibrate at speeds above that. N&W used many of them as helpers.  This is one reason why the trailing truck looks like an afterthought.  The purpose of the trailing truck on a helper is to cut down on driver tire wear when the locomotive is running light in reverse.   

You are probably thinking of earlier 2-8-8-2s (USRA). The Rivarossi model is a N&W Y6b. The Y6b (and similarly built or upgraded Y5 and Y6 class locos) could easily cruise at 50mph. Probably the most powerful articulated that ever served in regular service.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norfolk_and_Western_2156

Mark

[Bill H]

That can be a mixed bag. I have some old stuff that runs great every time and new locos that become shelf queens in a hurry.  Old for me in a Concor 4-6-4 I got in the late 70's. Runs great. I have four Bachmann 2-8-8-4 EM-1s that all run great.  BLI PRR M1s, all six run great and the three T1s do as well once the bugs were worked out.  The New BLI 2-8-2 is excellent.   Some duds, Rivorossi can be so so but I have some good runners too. Most of my newer Bachmann is very good. Old Bachmann, no way, trash.
    So it comes down to a mixed bag of things and I think some times luck of the draw.   I've seen great running engines and the next guy buys it and it won't get out of it's own way.

Have to completely agree on the EM-1s, I have four of the first release. The latest release is also DCC and sound equipped and will pull the legs off your table. Doesn't like curves under 15".
Kind regards,
Bill

[cjp53]

You are probably thinking of earlier 2-8-8-2s (USRA). The Rivarossi model is a N&W Y6b. The Y6b (and similarly built or upgraded Y5 and Y6 class locos) could easily cruise at 50mph. Probably the most powerful articulated that ever served in regular service.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norfolk_and_Western_2156

Mark

I have that RR steamer in HO and is sitting on my layout right now.It started making a squealing noise a few minuets after I would start running it.I never did take it in to have it looked at.Now there are only a few shops open.Love the detail.Always wanted the Big boy but this is close in size.

[cjp53]

Yes, that is from the first run.  There are a few from the second and third runs on eBay right now.  A Kato Mikado will run very similarly to your D51.

That's a 2-8-2 also and it runs great.I was running it this morning since I just finished my N scale layout to the point where my tracks are clear.

[cjp53]

I just won a new 3rd run Kato Mikado,very nice looking steam engine.

[robert3985]

Is there any steam right out of the box that runs good without tinkering  Thanks Kirk

@kgreeen Kirk, first, before you run ANY locomotive on your layout, you should always check to see if the wheelsets are properly gauged.  So, truth is, there is always a certain amount of "tinkering" that should happen...to every engine...even if they're fully in gauge, they should still be checked, the assumption being that they are not properly gauged.

That said, the only locomotive, either steam or diesel that I ever had be perfectly gauged right out of the box, were every one of my Kato FEF-3's....the finest running, least troublesome, best pulling engines I have ever purchased.

Why nobody here is recommending them is a mystery.

Although I don't have any BLI USRA Mikados, I pulled one out of the box and ran it at my train buddy Nate's when he got a couple delivered to him.  I did not check the gauge, but just sat it on the track and slowly cranked up the power and the DCC sound came on (Nate's home layout is DC) and it crept down the track at about a scale 4mph slowly accelerating until I ran it around the layout a couple of times and brought it to a smooth halt.  Both of Nate's engines ran great, and if I didn't already have four brass UP-ized USRA light Mikados, I would certainly get four of these fine running, excellently detailed models in UP for my layout.  The only problem I could see was that both of Nate's engines had the smokebox mounted bells broken...and when BLI sent replacements, they were broken too.  Must be a common problem, but you have to look closely to see that they're broken.

Photo (1) - Kato FEF-3  IMO the BEST plastic RTR engine ever made:


Photo (2) - BLI USRA Light Mikado in UP paint. Very nicely detailed, excellent running model w dual mode DCC sound:


While the Kato FEF-3 is prototypically exclusive to the Union Pacific, the BLI USRA Mikados were used by a lot of roads and are available in several.  I think the Light Mike is better looking than the Heavy Mike, but I might like it just because the UP had a lot of them.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[daniel_leavitt2000]

My personal favorites:
1. Bachmann Alco 2-6-0. I have a few of these and try are my favorite stream to run. Period. DCC equiped but basic.
2. MDC 2-6-0 runs well, but it's a strange prototype (1890's Baldwin though-cab boiler) and absolutely DCC hostile.
3. Bachman Baldwin 4-6-0. Runs almost as nice as their Alco. DCC equiped but basic. The engine looses points for the USRA short tender which is far too large for the engine.
4. MP/MRC (Alco, I think) 4-4-0 and 2-6-0. Specifically the sound equipped latest run. Smooth but the sound is hollow. DCC is basic.
5. Bachmann Baldwin 2-8-0. These can have a bit of a hitch to them so shop around and try it out before you buy. DCC equiped for the latest versions.
6. Bachmann N&W J. Probably the best paint on an engine. Love the die-cast detail. Don't like the thin raw wires between engine and tender. The current run may have fixed this and now features sound and DCC.

My collection is for a B&M shelf layout, so I focus on smaller motive power. All of these will run all day on even iffy track work. All will pull a decent sized train.

There are others. The Bachmann USRA 0-6-0 is a good starting point if you get a newer one, but it needs the Spectrum USRA tender and mods to make it really good. The MP/MRC Mike and Pacific can be good, or really bad. The Walthers USRA 0-8-0 is fantastic, but very hard to find and repair parts are not available.

But if I had to choose one, it would be that Bachmann Alco 2-6-0 all day long.