Let's see your Corona projects

[peteski]

Peteski:  That last 0-10-0 looks like something my narrow gauge might be interested in.  A Z scale, with an N scale body, and lots of extra weight, would be a perfect loco for heavy freight service on the southern end of my line.  Plenty of tractive effort uphill, and braking power downhill.

I wouldn't mind having a model of the Hartzer Schmalspur Bahnen's 0-10-0s.

I'm not sure if Marklin makes a 0-10-0T in Z scale, but they just might.  But you will be paying premium price - Z scale European models aren't cheap.

[ChristianJDavis1]

I'm not sure if anyone wanted it, but I wrote up a little "how to" for the Super Docksider. Figured I would post it here, too.


*Edit* I forgot to mention there is an air tank, also from the Bachmann white box 2-8-0, mounted on the pilot, visible in some of the photos earlier in the thread.

[keeper]

I'm not sure if Marklin makes a 0-10-0T in Z scale, but they just might.  But you will be paying premium price - Z scale European models aren't cheap.

Yes, Märklin did a 0-10-0, but it is sold out at the factory.

https://www.maerklin.de/de/produkte/details/article/88942/

Cheap is not a word known by Märkilin. An avaiable tank engine is about 275 Euro.

Thomas

[fcnrwy23]

Well , More projects dusted off...

Grade Crossing Light assemblies.



These are made out of various sizes of brass tube stock, Gold Medal Models' Walkway and Railing offerings and 1.8mm LEDs with 30 gauge DCC wire. (in a matching color to the Layout's Auxiliary supply.) The Green wire is the (+) and the physical brass structure is the (-).  These assemblies will fit into Brass "Sleeves" that will be inserted into the layout surface.





Though experience, I have learned to assemble these units, "Electrically" first and than "Paint" second.  I just have to remember to MASK over the ends' of the LEDs or this exercise is for naught.


Jerry G.

[peteski]

Well , More projects dusted off...

Grade Crossing Light assemblies.
. . .
Though experience, I have learned to assemble these units, "Electrically" first and than "Paint" second.  I just have to remember to MASK over the ends' of the LEDs or this exercise is for naught.


Jerry G.

I used similar method when I built my RR Crossing signals.  What  I did was to assemble mine like yours, then pre-paint the target faces black. Next,glue them to the LEDs, and only then mask the entire target (including the LED) with liquid mask).  Next step was to paint everything silver.  When dry, pick off the mask, exposing the black target face and the LED.  Nice and easy, and masking the entire target is easier than trying to just  mask the LED lens.

[fcnrwy23]

peteski-
That sure is another way of doing things.   I will be using "Micro-trains" washers.  (the ones that come with the coupler packs) as my Targets.  These I have used before.
I had to hunt through my albums for a photo of the existing Crossing Lights in Ford City. Its been so long, I forgot when I did my first ones.


The photo dates from April 2004.
These "New" lights will replace those pictured above.  The only problem is that, I hope I still have the paperwork for the circuit board, that I bought to power the things.
Don't remember where I got it. Will have to do some close examination of the unit under the layout, tomorrow.
I will be shooting them with a "Silver" finish as well.  Though, I would prefer a more "galvanized" look.. I will have to see what I have laying around in paint.

Jerry G.

[peteski]

I will be shooting them with a "Silver" finish as well.  Though, I would prefer a more "galvanized" look.. I will have to see what I have laying around in paint.

Jerry G.

Those will look nice (and improvement over the original ones, which looked pretty good too).

Scalecoat II Aluminum (S2047) or Graphite&Oil (S2003) are nice dull flat metallic color which can pass for galvanized look.  The S2003 is slightly darker (it doesn't really look like what I would imagine graphite with oil to look like).

The other idea would be to mix aluminum with light gray paint.

[nkalanaga]

Peteski and Thomas:  I know European Z is expensive - that's one of the reasons I haven't bought a new steam loco in many years.  My railroad is mostly diesel anyway, and I can't justify the expense for a passenger loco, since the entire railroad is basically "operating scenery" for my standard gauge.

[fcnrwy23]

One other project..

Last weekend, as I was cleaning house on my Surplus Equipment.  I came across more passenger cars.  One surplus RPO, found a new purpose.


This unit replaces a 40 foot micro-trains boxcar, that has been around since the FCNs' beginings.   Sorry, about the photo quality. The new "Shop" lights are playing with my old Nikon coolpix L20.. 

On a GOOD NOTE: 
The Crossing Lights have turned out pretty well..

This is where one of the NEW installations will be on the FCN.  At the crossing in the town of Almond..
I see through the photos that I will have to go back and add some more cosmetic details.  Styrene braces and the like.
Micro pics find all of the shortcoming in things..   But, that is easy to recitfiy..

Jerry G.

[NtheBasement]

Edit: Anyone have any insight in what slide switch to use for turnout control? Thats the route I'm going with this time. and I have no idea if I should get DPDT, or SPST, or throw Length.

Didn't see a reply but could easily be one right under my nose.

For Peco turnouts I used Radio Shack 275-0033 DPDT slide switches.  I only need SPDT for powering the frog so I don't hook up all the contacts.  The slide switch throw is slightly farther than the Peco but the hole that the music wire hooks to in the Peco throwbar is oversized so there is slop to make up for it.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-dpdt-submini-slide-switch

IIRC the hole in the benchwork is 5/8" and the hole in the switch handle is 1/8".  Making the handle hole oversized helps get the wire in and it lets you make up for inaccurate length at the bends.  The Q-tip gets super-glued in place so the wire can go anywhere in the hole to get the length right. WIP pic:

[fcnrwy23]

One More Thing...

NO, this is NOT the virus on the FCN layout..

 
It is the quarterly house cleaning OF the layout.

Most people who DONT own a layout, just think run trains and then go home.  Those of us who own one,  know the bigger it is, the more "Housekeeping" there is...

The first step is to remove all of the "breakables" off the surface. **NOTE: When I pack like this, I Very, very carefully place each item in each box**



Everything SHOULD be glued down.  You will know if this is true, everytime you have to open the vacuum cleaner bag to dig something out...   I take a few shipping boxes from my "online" stock and use them to temp store items.   Each location gets two boxes, one for rolling stock and one for vehicles..

The whole cleaning process takes about, 3+ hours to complete.  Speaking of completing...
I better get back to work....


Jerry G.

[DKS]

Though experience, I have learned to assemble these units, "Electrically" first and than "Paint" second.  I just have to remember to MASK over the ends' of the LEDs or this exercise is for naught.

I used similar method when I built my RR Crossing signals.  What  I did was to assemble mine like yours, then pre-paint the target faces black. Next,glue them to the LEDs, and only then mask the entire target (including the LED) with liquid mask).  Next step was to paint everything silver.  When dry, pick off the mask, exposing the black target face and the LED.  Nice and easy, and masking the entire target is easier than trying to just  mask the LED lens.

I didn't bother masking the LED lens, or the target, or anything else--way too much work. The LED packages are fairly resistant to solvents, so I painted everything silver and simply removed the paint from the lenses with a brush dipped in acetone. Then I attached the target--a brass washer painted black, followed by a bit of shrink wrap tubing clipped to make the hood.

[fcnrwy23]

DKS -
Instead of masking, removal of the overspray on the LED's lense with solvent is a simpler way.  I agree.



Q. What is the size (2.5mm/3.5mm) of the"Jack/plugs" are you using to attach the whole light assembly, with?  And...

Q. Who is the manufacturer of the "cantilever/arm " of your versions.?

Finally, Have you tried to replicate a "Wigwag" signal mechanism.  (An Idea, I have been pondering for some years now..)

Jerry G.

[DKS]

Q. What is the size (2.5mm/3.5mm) of the"Jack/plugs" are you using to attach the whole light assembly, with?  And...

Q. Who is the manufacturer of the "cantilever/arm " of your versions.?

Finally, Have you tried to replicate a "Wigwag" signal mechanism.  (An Idea, I have been pondering for some years now..)

1. 2.5 mm.

2. The cantilever is scratchbuilt, along with everything else except the gate arm and crossbucks.

3. No. But I'll think about it...

[fcnrwy23]

1. 2.5 mm.

2. The cantilever is scratchbuilt, along with everything else except the gate arm and crossbucks.

3. No. But I'll think about it...

1. OK

2. You Retired?    You have more time and patience than I have right now.. 

3. Seeing your work with finer brass and magnet wire.  It shouldn't be too much of a problem.. 

Jerry G.