Let's see your Corona projects

[MK]

If you don't want to build one yourself.

https://www.microfasteners.com/product.php?productid=19249&cat=259&page=1

[Chris333]

I keep one of these out in the garage:
https://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/46914/product_name/Bolt+Size-It+Gage?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0fbxksjr6AIVw_rjBx1FyA3yEAQYBSABEgJuX_D_BwE

[parkrrrr]

Ooh, I like the price on that microfasteners one. Might have to get that one. But I'll still have to partially make my own, because not everything I do is tiny so I'm going to want to go up to 1/2".

The other one is kinda what I'm trying to avoid - I have a set of cheap thread gauges that are stamped aluminum with the pitch gauges along the side and size gauges in the middle, but two things became quickly apparent: it's nicer to measure both at once, and aluminum is too soft for a pitch gauge, especially once you get below about 1mm pitch. So I'm avoiding anything that measures only one thing, and anything softer than aluminum. (I don't think you can even get that set of gauges I have any more, because it's so crappy even Harbor Freight didn't want to sell it.)

The front-runners competing against making my own are basically this plus this. I might still go that way, because those guys are much nicer if the thing you want to measure is, say, the size of bolt you need to use to break loose a brake rotor that's rusted to the hub.

[pjm20]

I've been looking for a decent thread gauge, and toying with just making my own, but since I don't have a lathe I couldn't figure out where I'd get all of the properly-sized rod stock for such a thing. And then I saw your photo and realized that I don't need rod stock, I just need to drill and tap TWO holes and put a screw in one. So, thanks for that. Now I have another new project.

Glad I can inspire!  This was my first machine shop project when I was a freshman in college. Just a hunk of 1/2" aluminum with tapped holes to teach us how to use some of the equipment in the shop. I was doing just fine until threading the 2-56 

[parkrrrr]

Just a hunk of 1/2" aluminum with tapped holes to teach us how to use some of the equipment in the shop. I was doing just fine until threading the 2-56 

Yeah, I imagine I'd want to counterbore the back side for anything smaller than #10 or so, just so there's less teensy tapping to do. It's not like you need a whole half-inch to check something with such a small pitch.

[Maletrain]

For what we do, I would like one with threaded holes that goes down to at least 00-90, if not 000-120.  And a metric one, of similar low end range.

Micro Mark had one advertised several years ago, but it was out-of-stock when I ordered it and has since been dropped instead of restocked.

[parkrrrr]

For what we do, I would like one with threaded holes that goes down to at least 00-90, if not 000-120.  And a metric one, of similar low end range.

Micro Mark had one advertised several years ago, but it was out-of-stock when I ordered it and has since been dropped instead of restocked.

I've been thinking about this and I think the thing to do is to:
 
1. Take a soft(ish) 1/8" metal rod like brass or aluminum, cut a piece to maybe 3/8" to 1/2" long.
2. Drill and tap to the appropriate tiny size (This might require a really stable, really accurate mill since it's such a tiny bit. Or a pin vise and a bunch of time on your hands, which we probably all have right now.)
       Edited to add: You don't have to drill and tap a through hole. Just enough at each end to hold a screw.
3. Cut the head off of a longish screw of the appropriate size, clean up the cut, maybe gently file the threads off of a pair of opposing sides at the cut end to make step 5 work better.
4. Screw the cut end of the screw partially into one end of your aluminum rod.
5. Crimp the screw end of the rod so the screw won't come out easily.

That'll give you something like the Thread Detective tools I linked above, but in smaller sizes. Probably want to find some way to mark the size. Maybe color-coded?

[johnb]

Back in October when I went out to Shawmut to chase the Big Boy, I picked up a pair of spikes from the old Sunset Route mainline. They have been sitting on my tool box since.

Today, I decided to put them to a good use while working on the far end of the yard. I took my four foot rule and marked straight lines from one end to another. I then took the old Atlas Mikado with the Dimi Trains Vanderbilt tender, added an inch or so to the length and decided that is how much room I needed at the end of the run around. I put the #6 crossover in place and laid the track to the egde of the layout. I put glue under the flex track, and used the spikes and a can of acetone for weight. Tomorrow I plan to ballast the switches and lay the track between the two sets of crossovers.

[w neal]

Another decal project finished. I had to use numbers from a Micro Scale set. The horns are wrong , as are a few other details. Some details are just plain absent. Sure do miss Sunrise Details. These representations are close enough for me, I rekon.

Anyways, a very nice fellow here helped me finish this. I owe this accomplishment to Pete W. of Precision Model Works decals (I forgot his screen name here). His generosity is greatly appreciated. Thanks Pete! I owe you a favor Pete!!







Now just a little Dullcoat...

[peteski]

Another decal project finished. I had to use numbers from a Micro Scale set. The horns are wrong , as are a few other details. Some details are just plain absent. Sure do miss Sunrise Details. These representations are close enough for me, I rekon.

Anyways, a very nice fellow here helped me finish this. I owe this accomplishment to Pete W. of Precision Model Works decals (I forgot his screen name here). His generosity is greatly appreciated. Thanks Pete! I owe you a favor Pete!!



Now just a little Dullcoat...

Oh yeah, that was some time ago.  You did a nice job on those locos!  Good to see your finished project.

[w neal]

Dullcoat makes them look better IMO. Like I said, missing details but they'll work. Replaced the couplers with MTs. Not that they look any better, but I think they'll be better in the long run for operation. I will either paint the trip pins black or just plain clip them off.

Due to my many trips to central Illinois visiting places like Urbana and Farmer City, the P&E began speaking to me. Thanks to Peteski, I can paint a few units in PC versions too. Thanks man!

[peteski]

Dullcoat makes them look better IMO. Like I said, missing details but they'll work. Replaced the couplers with MTs. Not that they look any better, but I think they'll be better in the long run for operation. I will either paint the trip pins black or just plain clip them off.

Due to my many trips to central Illinois visiting places like Urbana and Farmer City, the P&E began speaking to me. Thanks to Peteski, I can paint a few units in PC versions too. Thanks man!

You're welcome w neal!
They do look even better Dullcoated.  How did you do the silver window frames on the front of the cab?

[Dave V]

Here's my ancient 1970s-era Model Die Casting HOn3 2-8-0 kit build.  For a moment she had the most amazing sound too, but in a moment of carelessness I toasted the Tsunami2.  Fortunately it's a warranty replacement, so when it comes back she'll be even better.  For now she's wired for DC.  I detailed her after D&RGW class C-25 #375 as she appeared in about 1940.

[R L Smith]

I spent five years repairing musical instruments for a living. Theres a lot of variables to consider when deciding if its worth it to restore that horn. Shoot me a pm with questions and ill try to help you figure it out. By the way, I'm a sax player too. Mostly tenor and Bari but I do play alto occasionally. I mainly play pre 60s' horns.

What a small world. I also repaired horns for a living for almost 5 years, played bari in my college jazz band, and still play alto occasionally. And I'm an Erie RR fan too. What are the odds??   

Ron

[johnb]

Here's my ancient 1970s-era Model Die Casting HOn3 2-8-0 kit build.  For a moment she had the most amazing sound too, but in a moment of carelessness I toasted the Tsunami2.  Fortunately it's a warranty replacement, so when it comes back she'll be even better.  For now she's wired for DC.  I detailed her after D&RGW class C-25 #375 as she appeared in about 1940.

She looks great Dr. Dave. It's hard to believe her humble beginnings.