PRR L1 project has begun

[Lemosteam]

FYI- I have just contacted Republic Locomotive works and they have Cast resin L1s tender shells available.  I also ordered some pilot beams.

[glakedylan]

FYI- I have just contacted Republic Locomotive works and they have Cast resin L1s tender shells available.

thx John...i actually ordered 1 yesterday.


pilot beams? not sure what that would be?


sincerely
Gary

[dougnelson]

hey Doug...yes, i agree regarding the fragility and potential for damabge to such parts because of size and material.
my plan is not to have to do any changes to the shell inside or out, and then placing the shell on the frame without
doing them any harm.
since the shell will only call for decaled numbers and perhaps a keystone or brass face plate (and maybe a brass bell)
there is little need to touch the shell other than installation.


it could be that i am being naive. but. then, it is working with my first 3D printed shell.


thanks for your insight and sharing


sincerely
Gary

I have some limited experience with printed shells, but FUD is very fragile and I would expect fine separate details to likely break in normal handling. Others with more experience should weigh in.

[wm3798]

Mmm.  That's the profile I'm looking to represent when I rework my Trix Decapod.  I received the resin cast shell from Camden and Amboy, but it's really just the K-4 shell with the screw hole relocated and some nose details.  I really want the shorter cab and the more blunt look of that shell.  I'll have to look that one up.
I'm not looking to do the full boat mechanical upgrade... the old Trixster runs like a swiss watch, and hauls all it needs to on the Retro Rig.

I'll be watching this with interest.
Lee

[glakedylan]

total disappointment and wonder


after light layer of primer
then a light layer of DGLE
the shell has become disformed
i mean really, really disformed:

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i have been very careful with this shell because of cost involved.

i do not know what happened, other than paint attacking the FXD.

used acrylics.

no way to undo this.

SPF!

rethinking the whole MR thing


Gary

[C855B]

I'm guessing insufficient curing, and the paint job made the remaining cure nonlinear. John @Lemosteam would know more about this, he's had his share of warped models.

Is it possible that one of your acrylics - primer in particular - contained alcohol as a wetting agent and additional solvent for enhanced bond? FXD resin is notorious for its sensitivity to IPA. I never had this kind of problem with FXD until I tried to strip paint with alcohol. Warp city in under five minutes.

[glakedylan]

thanks for the reply, Mike ...


i am thinking that you are spot on
i do not know about alcohol in primer
but i suppose that is quite possible


what a bummer, to say the least


i know the prep before painting went as it should have
bestine bath and gentle brushing with soft toothbrush


i whitened up well and there were no signs of wax artifacts


thanks for the insight
hope your weekend is going well


Gary

[Chris333]

I wonder about the primer used. That truly does suck. 

For black I use 99 cent flat black from Walmart.

[peteski]

"Acrylics" is a silly term propagated by modelers, and really doesn't mean anything useful.  Acrylic is the binder in your paint (stuff that makes the pigment stick to the painted surface).  But acrylic can be used in both, paints which use water-based, or paints whihc use organic-based (smelly stuff) solvents.

Exactly what brand/type primer and paint did you use?
I have seen (here on TRW) lots of items printed in that resin and painted without any warping.

[chicken45]

whoa that sucks.

[carlso]

I agree with all, that sure as heck sucks. Don't let it drive you out of the hobby. I know how you feel as $$ has become a real issue for me, I have to be very careful.

However, this makes me think about how bad I miss Jason Smith and his "Super" castings.

Carl

[glakedylan]

i used
Tamiya Gray Fine Surface Primer L
for primer ...
must not be compatible with FXD

won't do that again


thinking of just stripping and decaling KATO shell
for PRR


Gary

[Lemosteam]

Wow, Gary, I am so upset for you. I ONLY use Tamiya spray paints- was that what you used, I mean spray vs, airbrush?  My mantra is always six light coats Tamiya TS-6.  Did you let each coat fully dry?

I am at a total loss for what might have happened.

I did try a Minitrix shell on the mike chassis without luck.

One question- were there any areas on the print that felt sticky or soft before you cleaned the print?

[glakedylan]

hey John...


thanks for your reply


i used Tamiya Gray Fine Surface Primer L spray can


just a light coat as i only wanted to mask some striations in the print
and have a good flat surface for the DGLE


yes gave 24hrs between the primer and the DGLE


the only thing different this time (in painting as with the BL2)
i painted outside as i have no way of venting my booth


the print seemed already stripped of wax and extra stuff
i did a bestine bath (3 for 30 minutes each) and there was
nothing that seemed other than cured and hardened


sincerely
Gary

[peteski]

Gary, you still didn't answer my question about type/brand of the paint (you only mentioned primer).

That might be important since if the primer distorted the shell, you would not have proceeded with the color coat. Correct? So, I assume the distortion occurred after the final color coat.  Correct?

And it probably looked straight when you finished applying the final coat of paint? Or did the warping occurred in front of your eyes, while you were painting?

How was the paint dry?  In open air, room temperature, or in a food dehydrator (or some other warm environment?

Answering these questions might provide some insight as to what happened.