Weekend Update 1/19/20

[arbomambo]

 I also purchased a Kato Soundbox a few weeks ago. Our T-TRAK group usually operates a few inner 'yellow' track loops during our larger layouts at Train Shows, and we like to operate them on DC as many folks still want to run their non-DCC equipment.
I like using the Kato Soundbox for these situations as it adds a huge extra element of sound to the layout at shows.
I really detest onboard sound in N scale...even the very best renditions (and there are quite a few excellent examples here on this forum) still sound 'tinny' and small. I'm a railfan as well, and I love not only the sound, but the feel/vibration of the sounds emanating from the motive power as a train passes, or just idles in the yard.
  I amplified my soundbox, from the 'line out' jack, with a Philips sound bar and subwoofer. Situated under the table in a T-TRAK setup, the sound is tremendous! In a train show environment, it really doesn't matter that the sound doesn't necessarily 'chase' the train aroui\nd the layout. The subwoofer is so omni directional that the entire layout is filled with sound. Regardless, I'm impressed with the actual 'sound' that Kato uses for these individual sound cards.

[mu26aeh]

Ah, ok.  I looked at the other thread, but the stairs in those renderings confuse  me.  Also, there seems to be a basement window in the side of the new garage foundation, so I thought there was a basement under the garage.

But now I know where the layout will be located - thanks!

Not certain about the window in the new foundation.  Maybe to help light the stairway   Only Lee knows for certain

[John]

Did some "redneck engineering" to vent my anycubic photon into our old furnace flue ..



Built a UV cure box for resin prints



Also printed up a couple more M577's.  Once I get the blemishes cleaned up, one will be in the desert sand color, and another will be decorated for a medical track.

[up1950s]

I started hanging curtains under the layout fascia. Sure makes a difference, with all the junk underneath out of sight. The layout is finally coming along, I like it! More on my “ATSF Los Angeles Division” thread in Layout Engineering...
Otto K.

Looks great .

I see a future product . Suppose they made fabric that was printed with what looks like a light brown dirt cliff . That combined with your velcro method could become the standard skirting for layouts world wide and beyond .

[peteski]

Looks great .

I see a future product . Suppose they made fabric that was printed with what looks like a light brown dirt cliff . That combined with your velcro method could become the standard skirting for layouts world wide and beyond .

The NTRAK club I belong to (and probably many other NTRAK clubs everywhere) have been using the Velcro ^TM curtain attachment method for decades.  My friend (and NTRAK member) also uses it on his layout.  It works very well.

[MVW]

The NTRAK club I belong to (and probably many other NTRAK clubs everywhere) have been using the Velcro ^TM curtain attachment method for decades.  My friend (and NTRAK member) also uses it on his layout.  It works very well.

I'll throw one more option out there. I hot-glued wooden clothes pins to the underside of the layout, and use 'em to hold the curtains. (Actually landscape fabric, which is great, 'cuz not only does it work as curtains, but it'll keep my weeds under control for up to five years.  )

Regardless, nice work, Otto!

Jim

[MK]

Since my club does a lot of shows, this would answer the question that is asked (usually yelled!) 100x during setup "Is track power turned on or is this module not connected???!!!"

Home made DCC meter.

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[jagged ben]

a few more 'tweaks' to the cab unit ....



...

Can you tell us more about how you did those headlight lenses within tue housing?

[draskouasshat]

Work continues on the Santa Fe steam generator car.
I still gave some roof details and stanchions to add as well as weathering.
Apparently my non-steam painting isn't up to snuff after these photos revealed some flaws!
Its built from a long usra tender,  E8 body,  and some work with my end mill.
Hopefully with some dullcote and weathering, it will look ok.
Drasko
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[Jim Starbuck]

Detail work commenced on the Davenport 45 tonner this week.
The railings, cut levers and grabs are done. There was also air reservoir piping added after these photos were taken.
It’s disassembled now in preparation for paint.

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[thomasjmdavis]

Found the box with a couple old unfinished projects, and started a new one.  Need some clean up, paint and detailing, and of course decals.  But its a start.

If and when finished, they will be ATSF baggage lounge, road-to-be-determined baggage car, and a "representation" of Wabash baggage mail 448.  On the Wabash car, may also need to "modernize" the doors, hoping to find a photo of the car in early-mid 50s.

[learmoia]

Early-Mid 1950s.. like this?

http://rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2261489

[u18b]

I haven't posted in a long time since I haven't done any modelling since I moved.
Until recently.

Years ago, a man commissioned me to finish 2 OMI brass Western Maryland Shays from what he was sending me.  These were the Wiseman kits (Wiseman bought out all of OMI's surplus parts, making craftman level kits).

What I got was a basket case.   The guy's brother destroyed some of the parts (ruined a truck, and superglued other parts).  Such a shame.  I told guy 2 were absolutely not possible.  But I MIGHT get one out of all he sent me, with some more parts (for example, I had no motor).

He would not take no for an answer.  Went back and forth with the guy (who argued with me) for months and months.

Finally, he surprised me.  He gave up..... and said just keep everything.

So all these parts have been sitting in a box for years.

I finally got it  out and went to work.   Out of ALL these parts, I was just barely able to get one working Shay out of it.
It was quite an accomplishment.



So this new Shay runs- and pretty well, but not perfectly to my preferred standards.  It has a very slight bind in the drive train because the crankshaft is not absolutely perfect. (I have another Shay that DOES run perfectly - like a Swiss watch: it is amazing)

I used a Bachmann motor to get this Shay running (I think out of an HHP-8).  And that may be partially why it does not run perfectly and is a little noisier than I would like.  One day I'll replace the motor with a coreless motor.

I added a decoder and wired it for DCC or analog.   The headlight has been drilled out and works.



Still have some more work to do, but at least it is a working Shay.
I'm very happy to have accomplished this with what I had to start with.

[Jim Starbuck]

That’s beautiful Ron!
It looks like jewelry that runs!

Jim

[ChristianJDavis1]

I haven't posted in a long time since I haven't done any modelling since I moved.
Until recently.

Years ago, a man commissioned me to finish 2 OMI brass Western Maryland Shays from what he was sending me.  These were the Wiseman kits (Wiseman bought out all of OMI's surplus parts, making craftman level kits).

What I got was a basket case.   The guy's brother destroyed some of the parts (ruined a truck, and superglued other parts).  Such a shame.  I told guy 2 were absolutely not possible.  But I MIGHT get one out of all he sent me, with some more parts (for example, I had no motor).

He would not take no for an answer.  Went back and forth with the guy (who argued with me) for months and months.

Finally, he surprised me.  He gave up..... and said just keep everything.

So all these parts have been sitting in a box for years.

I finally got it  out and went to work.   Out of ALL these parts, I was just barely able to get one working Shay out of it.
It was quite an accomplishment.



So this new Shay runs- and pretty well, but not perfectly to my preferred standards.  It has a very slight bind in the drive train because the crankshaft is not absolutely perfect. (I have another Shay that DOES run perfectly - like a Swiss watch: it is amazing)

I used a Bachmann motor to get this Shay running (I think out of an HHP-8).  And that may be partially why it does not run perfectly and is a little noisier than I would like.  One day I'll replace the motor with a coreless motor.

I added a decoder and wired it for DCC or analog.   The headlight has been drilled out and works.



Still have some more work to do, but at least it is a working Shay.
I'm very happy to have accomplished this with what I had to start with.

You are making me want to work on mine, now. Only real problem with it is the tender wobbles, causing the footboards to contact the railhead occasionally, and the driveshaft connection between the tender and engine is a little short, so sometimes it just pops out and causes it to bind; was just thinking of trying to extend the female part of the driveshaft so that it doesn't do that, assuming it can't be adjusted forward.