Simulating polished cylinder head covers - suggestions?

[nickelplate759]

Passenger (steam) engines once commonly had polished metal cylinder head covers.  I've got a Model Power / MRC Pacific that I want to add the appearance of this detail to (yes, I know that some models came that way - mine, alas, did not).

These engines are notoriously fragile if you take them apart, so I don't want to do that if I can avoid it.  I'd rather compromise on the appearance a bit. 

I'm thinking about ways to make the cylinder head covers silver/metallic without disassembly.  Painting front end of the cylinders might not be too hard.  Brush painting silver paint is hard to do well, but removing the pilot (that's one of the few things that I have safely removed before) and careful masking might allow an airbrush to get paint in the right place.  I've considered using silver decal paper - anyone ever try that?

The rear end of the cylinders (the part that all the rods go into) seems even harder without disassembly - any ideas there?

[peteski]

Bare Metal Foil is what I use for doing chrome trim of model automobiles (my other hobby).  Might work in your application.  But the rear might be hard without disassembly.

Available in hobby shops catering to automotive modelers, or online.
https://www.bare-metal.com/

[nickelplate759]

Interesting idea - is it stretchy at all?

[peteski]

Yes, the Chrome (not the Ultra bright) is very thin and quite pliable, and somewhat stretchy.  But I imagine it will be difficult to work it in close quarters.

Use your favorite search engine and search "bare metal foil" in images for some examples of its application.

[NDave]

FWIW, I have found that Testors enamel metallic paints brush on pretty well. I brushed 2 coats of Testors "Flat steel" on the smokebox on my 2-8-0 (which started life as a Bachmann N scale 2-8-0) after the completed and detailed shell had been sprayed with engine black acrylic. Looked pretty good after just one coat, but the second covered a few corners I missed.



I haven't used the silver over such large areas, but my limited experience suggests it covers well.

Overcoating with clear gloss might then give a more metallic appearance?

[robert3985]

Passenger (steam) engines once commonly had polished metal cylinder head covers.  I've got a Model Power / MRC Pacific that I want to add the appearance of this detail to (yes, I know that some models came that way - mine, alas, did not).

These engines are notoriously fragile if you take them apart, so I don't want to do that if I can avoid it.  I'd rather compromise on the appearance a bit. 

I'm thinking about ways to make the cylinder head covers silver/metallic without disassembly.  Painting front end of the cylinders might not be too hard.  Brush painting silver paint is hard to do well, but removing the pilot (that's one of the few things that I have safely removed before) and careful masking might allow an airbrush to get paint in the right place.  I've considered using silver decal paper - anyone ever try that?

The rear end of the cylinders (the part that all the rods go into) seems even harder without disassembly - any ideas there?

Shiny, metallic cylinder and valve covers on steam engines were usually nickel plated steel.  Union Pacific's 844 has the original cylinder and valve covers still on her, and I'm almost 100% sure they've been re-plated several times.

As usual, I recommend looking at the prototype and taking photos, or finding photos online you can use as references.  Photos of the 844 are easy to find online, and because of the variability of printing, scanning and other vagaries of photography (time of day, condition of the sky, exposure, type of film, digital white balance settings, etc.) you should probably use several photos as your color reference on any model project.

Photo (1) - Here's an example of one of my photos of the 844 when she was visiting Ogden several years ago, all decked out and polished up with her nickel plated cylinder/valve covers prominent in this frontal view:


One of the very best natural metal model finishes is Alclad2, which should be applied with an airbrush.  Several different metallic tones are available, but for a polished look, the surface you're applying it to should also be either polished or have a gloss base coat.  Go here for more information:  http://alclad2.com/

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Jim Starbuck]

Just typing out loud here but would it be possible to create a small disc of styrene, finish it to your liking off the model with foil etc. then apply it as a detail part?

[peteski]

Thinking some more about it I believe you only have to make the front cover shiny metallic. I don't recall ever seeing natural metal colored backs of the cylinders.

Bare Metal Foil Chrome is actually some soft metal alloy (not just thin aluminum foil) which has a slightly warm silver color (just like nickel).  As Bob mentioned, Alclad II also has a wide selection of colors available (including warmer silvers, but none are actually called "nickel").  Stainless Steel is probably closest in color to nickel).

[nickelplate759]

Front and back both.  Here's an example:

[peteski]

OK, I see them now. 

The more I think about it, the more I think that to do a quality job you should take the model apart to gain full access to the front and back of the cylinders. I would.

[Mike C]

 I always used Modelmaster Anthracite Gray Metallic enamel and a very small brush . Testors silver enamel is OK , but is too thick IMO . Never disassembled my locos but it takes a steady hand .

[nickelplate759]

OK, I see them now. 

The more I think about it, the more I think that to do a quality job you should take the model apart to gain full access to the front and back of the cylinders. I would.

I'm really not prepared to remove  the drivers and valve gear in order to pull the off.  There's just too much that can go wrong on these.
I can take off the pilot easily enough, and that should allow access to the front of the cylinders at least.

Note that the polished metal wraps around the side of the cylinder jacket just a bit.  That might be hard to do with the foil unless it has a fair amount of give to it.  It's easy to do with paint of course.

[Chris333]

Look up Bare Metal Foil on Youtube and see how it works.

If not just use Testors chrome paint.

[peteski]

Testors Chrome paint never truly dries (it stays forever soft).

George, I suspected all along that the cylinders can be removed without messing with the drivers, so I dug out one of my models and it looks like my suspicions were correct.  You can easily take the cylinders out.



First you remove the front truck and the pilot (you know how to do that already).   Next, remove the rearmost screw in the frame cover plate.  That will allow you to separate the boiler (with the motor) from the frame with the drivers (and the cylinders).  Then there is a single screw on top of the cylinder assembly, fastening it to the frame. Remove the screw and the cylinder assembly will slide out forward.  Just like the photo shows.  When reinstalling the cylinders onto the frame you will have to coax the piston roda into the cylinders along with the crosshead onto the crosshead guides. Also the valve gear. But that is not very difficult.  I'll have to do it too, to get my model back together.     I suspect that it will be easiest if one side crankpins are rotated to about 10 o'clock position, so the piston rods are staggered on each side.

[nickelplate759]

Thanks for the encouragement - and the Proof of Concept.   OK, I'll give it a try