Author Topic: P&WV 2-8-2 1053  (Read 3362 times)

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ncbqguy

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #15 on: November 16, 2019, 02:00:02 PM »
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Could you please identify and comment on the two engines in the photo?   
They seem to be different models.

peteski

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #16 on: November 16, 2019, 02:02:56 PM »
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Could you please identify and comment on the two engines in the photo?   
They seem to be different models.

That seems like a question for @Chris333 .

The models are different, but they both use the same pilot molding (one is modified with brass foot board).
« Last Edit: November 16, 2019, 02:04:40 PM by peteski »
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Chris333

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #17 on: November 16, 2019, 02:19:04 PM »
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In the photo on the left is a Kato Mikado with extra details added like the pilot mounted air compressor.

On the right is a kitbashed 2-10-2 using a lengthened Kato Mikado frame and adding the extra driver. The smokebox and pilot are from the Kato Mikado. The rest of the (shortened) body and smoke stack are from a Con Cor USRA 2-10-2.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9wXMaQ56ZtGErUjaA

The "as is" Concor 2-10-2 was total crap and the body was around 3/8" too long because of the driver spacing. 

But for the photo both models have a Kato Mikado pilot.

ncbqguy

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #18 on: November 16, 2019, 03:33:24 PM »
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Well I would have never ID’d the kitbashed engine!   I have a Con-Cor 2-10-2 but never have had it out of the box.   We still need a decent USRA 2-10-2 Heavy because of the liberties on the CC version.  Your model it great!
Charlie Vlk

Ed Kapuscinski

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #19 on: November 17, 2019, 12:27:53 PM »
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To glue it back on after you fix it... try Walthers Goo.  A rubbery adhesive like that bonds well to things like Delrin, and if you let it set up overnight, it gets really strong.  I know it's a flexible adhesive, but it won't flex that much after it dries out.

I LOVE Walthers Goo! Such a versatile adhesive.

nickelplate759

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #20 on: November 24, 2019, 09:20:02 PM »
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So -- the pilot beam (and the tender rear beam) needs poling pockets.   I figure about .060" (1.5mm) diameter is about right.  I could make them with a thin slice of tubing (and a little dishing out with a tiny ball-shaped dremel buff), but I can't find 0.060" styrene tubing.  Evergreen is 0.069 - maybe that's close enough?  Maybe I should just turn it down (not hard to do)?

It needs to be tubing because there's NO way I'd ever be able to drill a centered hole in a piece of 0.060" rod...

Suggestions please - including other ways to model a poling pocket.
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

mmagliaro

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #21 on: November 24, 2019, 09:47:38 PM »
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I see where you're going with this.  You want that raised relief around the perimeter of the polling pocket.  I applaud you for not just dishing out a cavity right in the beam and being done with it!

Since you're really trying to be precise about this, I'd say .069", at .009" too big, is too much error.  I like your idea of turning down some tubing.
You only have to take .005" off, which should be easy if you have an accurate way to turn the rod.   If you have a lathe or a mill, the solution is obvious.  But otherwise, how about a drill press?  It's just styrene.  With a little trial-and-error, you can probably get it down to size and not go out of round.

Chucking it in a Dremel would be my last resort.  It's really hard to turn anything very true in a Dremel, just holding something against it in your hand.  If you can clamp the Dremel in a vise and then hold a file against the spinning tube, that might work.

Angus Shops

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #22 on: November 25, 2019, 12:10:40 AM »
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I was faced with a similar problem when working on some singled sheathed 'Dominion' boxcars a while ago. I used rod rather than tube; it's not a difficult as you might think. I cut slivers off the rod and glued them to end beams of the car. When completely dry and solid I used a succession of drills to dish out the slivers of rod. If there's not too much other 'stuff' in the way you can use files to dress the rod sliver to improve the starting profile. I used a small drill to mark the center in the sliver, and worked up to whatever size provided the best 'dish'. The drills, in a hand tool, provide good control. I also cut a whole bunch of 'slivers' and used the best matching pair. You'll really need a good vision aid for this!
Geoff

NDave

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #23 on: November 25, 2019, 05:01:55 PM »
+1
Another thing to try...

Start with slightly oversize styrene ROD, and chuck the ROD in a Dremel, with just a SHORT piece extending out of the chuck (the shorter the tube sticking out, the less "wobble").

Use abrasive paper (400 grit?) to round the outside of the rod to the contour of the outside of the pocket.

With the rod still in the Dremel, and the Dremel turning at moderate speed, hold an appropriate size ball-end Dremel routing bit IN YOUR OTHER HAND, and gently bring it up to the face of the rod, as well centered as you can. The turning rod will tend to center the tool, and with gentle pressure, you can excavate a shallow pocket.

Once the pocket is centered and started, I actually find it easier to turn off the dremel, and just twist the bit back and forth with my fingers while holding it against the end of the rod.

Then, slice the pocket off the end of the rod with a razor blade (a razor miter box might help keep your slice thin and true... also, double edge blades are sharper than single edge blades).

I have been using this technique to hollow out N scale headlamp housings that I have turned out of styrene.


nickelplate759

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #24 on: November 25, 2019, 07:01:13 PM »
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Another thing to try...

Start with slightly oversize styrene ROD, and chuck the ROD in a Dremel, with just a SHORT piece extending out of the chuck (the shorter the tube sticking out, the less "wobble").

Use abrasive paper (400 grit?) to round the outside of the rod to the contour of the outside of the pocket.

With the rod still in the Dremel, and the Dremel turning at moderate speed, hold an appropriate size ball-end Dremel routing bit IN YOUR OTHER HAND, and gently bring it up to the face of the rod, as well centered as you can. The turning rod will tend to center the tool, and with gentle pressure, you can excavate a shallow pocket.

Once the pocket is centered and started, I actually find it easier to turn off the dremel, and just twist the bit back and forth with my fingers while holding it against the end of the rod.

Then, slice the pocket off the end of the rod with a razor blade (a razor miter box might help keep your slice thin and true... also, double edge blades are sharper than single edge blades).

I have been using this technique to hollow out N scale headlamp housings that I have turned out of styrene.

Neat idea - I'll give it a try.
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

nickelplate759

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #25 on: December 08, 2019, 08:02:05 PM »
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I've made some progress. I can shape the front of the poling pocket reliably on the end of a 1/16" styrene rod.   The trick was to put the 1/16" rod inside some 1/16" ID Brass tubing, then put a small Dremel burr into the tubing so that the tubing held it centered - and turn the burr by hand, not with a motor tool.

I'm a little stumped at how to cut off that pocket off the rod though? I want it about 0.20", and  I can easily sand it thinner after it's cut, but even in a NWSL Chopper the cut isn't straight, and the resulting piece is so thin and tiny that sanding it square is difficult.  Any suggestions?
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

mmagliaro

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #26 on: December 09, 2019, 12:59:36 AM »
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I think your tubing approach was brilliant, and may be the solution to your new problem.
Just slip the rod into a piece of tubing so that just the little .020" sticks out at the end of the brass tubing.
Now you should be able to squarely slice it off with a single-edge razor blade, and the tubing will hold the cut nice and square.

nickelplate759

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #27 on: December 12, 2019, 12:01:54 AM »
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I think your tubing approach was brilliant, and may be the solution to your new problem.
Just slip the rod into a piece of tubing so that just the little .020" sticks out at the end of the brass tubing.
Now you should be able to squarely slice it off with a single-edge razor blade, and the tubing will hold the cut nice and square.

Max - that worked beautifully!  Pictures when I get them on the pilot.  Thank you for the suggestion.
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

nickelplate759

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #28 on: December 13, 2019, 04:14:40 PM »
+1
Here's the pilot with poling pockets added. Not great, but good enough to make me happy.




Next is to add the handrail above the (Kato original) cut lever, then paint.
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

mmagliaro

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Re: P&WV 2-8-2 1053
« Reply #29 on: December 13, 2019, 07:52:19 PM »
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I actually think they look pretty good.  The only criticism I have would be that maybe you should try a larger diameter round burr.  Those have too much flat space as a "rim" at the outside of the poling pocket.  In fact, you could fix them up without even taking them off or redoing them.  Just put a larger diameter burr in a pin vise, and gently ream into the pocket to widen the depression out some more.