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I don't think I have any track with a tight-enough radius to really check. Still pretty tight, I believe.
I have no use for this car, but all these cool modifications make me want to buy one so I can play with it myself.
@peteski how about I just send you the 8 I bought?
I'm not totally sold on Z scale couplers for two reasons. You track needs to be good, and while they mate witn N scale ones, it's not ideal.Running them on things like NTRAK modules...whoo baby was I disappointed real fast. I had those sweet brass PRR F25 flats that basically couldn't run because they were too fine for the wild west that is NTRAK. It may have been better if I had a transition car with N on one end, and Z on the other, but alas, I didn't. You can't really do ops like that, either. So, the next time someone says "slap on a Z!" remember these things!Have others had better luck?
Have others had better luck?
Wondering if BLI went to the longer shank after finding that their kinematic design did not succeed in getting their cars around their intended minimum radius curve. Whatever, it seems a shame to make the effort to produce a very prototypical car of a particular type, and then make it have a very toy-like coupling distance.
My day to day layout fleet is generally standard MT’s, but I do use 905’s on some “special” equipment, brass heavyweights, cabooses, steam pilots and a handful of superdetailed freight cars. While they do work reasonably well with standard N scale couplers, I do experience occasional random break-in-twos on a long freight on grades, and it’s always the 905 that’s the first to snap under strain. They do work well on my cabooses and passenger cars, but midtrain freight on a steep grade, not so much. It’s just physics...Perhaps flatlanders have better luck with them.Otto K.