Neolube #2 Questions

[trainutz]

I recently purchased a 2 oz. bottle of Neolube #2 with the intention of weathering some 40 Kato GG1 pantographs that I "upgraded" to Milw Rd specs, and several questions come to mind: 1. Does Neolube have a definite shelf-life after opening? 2. Is there any difference in durability of finish between brush painting vs. immersion(immersion seems preferable to the tedium of hand-painting)? 3. How many coats are typically needed with either method? 4. Can coated surfaces be over-painted or over-sprayed after application of Neolube(I would like to paint the pan insulators an off-white)? 

I would appreciate any comments along with the "do's" and "don't's" associated with using Neolube.

[wazzou]

I have some.  I use it and I like the effects.   
I think Neolube is essentially graphite suspended in a carrier that evaporates.
I don't know what that carrier is but I suspect it is some type of Alcohol.
In my experience which is only brush or micro-brush applied, one thorough coat is enough.
I haven't notice it darken with a second coat and really, the risk is moving the settled graphite with a second wet attempt.

I haven't tried painting over it but I suspect it shouldn't be a problem.

[Chinapig]

I always use it on my MTL stock for painting the metal trip pins on the couplings.  One coat works a treat and it doesn't matter if any gets on the plastic as it's a lubricant.

Cheers, Ted

[mmagliaro]

It is definitely graphite suspended in alcohol, but I am "pretty" sure that there is also some sort of binder in it.  The alcohol evaporates after you brush it on, but the graphite doesn't just rub off after that (although it will wear off of metal parts that wear against each other, like driver treads on rail).

As for shelf life, the first bottle I ever bought was the 2 oz from Micro-Mark, and I had it for something like 10 years before I used it all up.  There was no difference in its behavior or appearance that I could ever see.

Painting over it: I haven't done it.  It will probably work, but I would experiment on a scrap of something first.  You will be painting over graphite and whatever binders are in the Neolube that hold it on the surface.  It's hard to say if the paint will really adhere well.

Multiple coats: I do this all the time.  You have to wait a while between coats, and you can't be too feisty with the brush on a second coat.  Just one smooth swipe over the surface on the second coat, and then let it dry again.  Otherwise, you will dissolve the first coat.  I've used multiple coats on curved uneven surfaces where the Neolube tends to collect more in cavities or corners and not coat the large flat areas evenly.   On steam loco boilers, sometimes the effect is kind of uneven on the first coat, but a second coat really evens things up.  I wouldn't say it gets darker, just more uniform.

Immersion vs brushing: I've tried dunking things in it.  It does work.  But I find that the coating and the color actually come out darker than I like.  It comes out pretty darn black that way.  I prefer the "mysterious" steel-gray mottled appearance one gets by applying it with a brush.  I say "mysterious" because the color shading and texture look like the complex surface of steel, which is a hard look to duplicate with paint.

I hope this answers all your questions.

[randgust]

Had my bottle for several years and no signs of degradation.

It's not paint, don't confuse it with paint.  But for 'painting' things that have to move that paint would normally gum up, it's wonderful stuff.  I use it on steam locomotive rods and valve gear and just love it.   It will wear off even with finger handling, but it's easily reapplied as touch-up, particularly for photos.

I'd paint anything like your insulators first and then put Neolube on the rest of your pantograph area.  I would't consider painting over it, it wouldn't hold up.

Finding this stuff was one of the great forum tips, by the way.

[peteski]

Like others said, Neolube #2 (not just "Neolube", because #1 also exists, along with several other Neolube lubricants) is a powdered graphite based dry lubricant, used by many industries.  I recommend a quick read of https://neolube.global/products/ to get an inkling as to what it is and its intended uses.
Some hobbyist discovered (probably by a happy accident) that it also works really well as a non-permanent weathering and darkening agent for model trains (running gear of steam locos).  It is not paint and it really isn't used as paint would be.  When applied as weathering, it goes on in a very thin layer, which can fairly easily be rubbed off (onto your fingers).  I have not tried painting over it, but I suspect that if paint is brushed over it (especially the stinky, organic solvent based paints) the action of applying the wet paint over it will cause the graphite to dissolve and partially mix with the paint. If the paint is airbrushed, it might work better.   But since  we use it as weathering agent, I would say the best way to use it is as a final weathering coat.  Sealing it with clear flat or gloss mught also affect its color (haven't tried it).

[mmagliaro]

Peteski, I think your wording is reversed. Neolube #2 is the stuff we use for weathering, not #1.

I'm surprised at how easily people seem to say this stuff rubs off. That has not been my experience. On drivers or rubbing surfaces of rods, yes. But for anything else, where you just handle the pieces, it always seemed pretty hard to get off without alcohol.

[peteski]

Peteski, I think your wording is reversed. Neolube #2 is the stuff we use for weathering, not #1.

Oops!  Fixed!

[CRL]

What’s the difference between the versions? No.2 says it’s conducive, but that seems to be the only major difference I see.

[mmagliaro]

It is hard to tell them apart.

Here are two good descriptions of #1 and #2

https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/neolube1pds.htm
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/neo2pds.htm

They are both described as pure, finely-ground graphite in alcohol with a thermoplastic resin binder.  I actually can't tell the difference from reading the descriptions.  Anybody?

[trainutz]

Thanks to all who replied; your comments clarified my concerns, especially yours, Max.

Because I already had the pans disassembled I immersed the upper half pieces(with the anti-snag brackets) in a solution of Blacken-It to pre-darken the brass wire brackets.. This seemed to provide a better beginning prior to applying the Neolube. Next will come the immersion process. To speed things up I will likely use a hair dryer on each piece as it is removed from the Neolube solution.

[peteski]

Next will come the immersion process. To speed things up I will likely use a hair dryer on each piece as it is removed from the Neolube solution.

Yes, warm air will speed up drying, but I'm not sure if that is needed. The alcohol in Neolube #2 evaporates fairly quickly.

[Chris333]

Wasn't this stuff to lubricate nuclear reactors or something like that? Maybe Neolube #1 is classified 

[tehachapifan]

Has anyone tried this stuff on an older Kato loco...the ones that were before the advent of pointy axles and contact strips with axle cups? These locos just have the axle itself (well, its part of the inside of the wheel) turning within a bearing opening in the (metal) truck tower that can get squeaky at times. Using oil (maybe only certain types) seems to wreak havoc on the electrical pickup as this is the only point where power is transmitted from the wheels to the loco. Conductive oil seems like it might be an issue if it migrates across the insulated portion if the axle to the other side.


….or am I still unclear on what this stuff even is??

[Chris333]

Was made to lubricate threaded parts:
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/neo2pds.htm