Deluxe Maxi-IV Fix-It Kit Alternatives?

[jagged ben]

One thing to note is that the DI and Kato models actually represent different prototypes.  The side walkways are more detached on the DI and represent an earlier version.   Coupler conversion is the biggest drawback on the Kato in my opinion.

[Glenn Poole]

You can still buy these from Intermountain (sales@edstrains.com).  Most of the sets are still available.  They make it clear they do not come with the fix it kit so you have to fix them yourself.  I too, like these and have or are trying to get rid of my Kato ones.  Don't like the way Katos hook together.

[ns737]

coupler conversion for the kato iv is not that hard. I body mounted a mt on a A unit in lest then 5m. the set is now my front cars.

[MetroRedLine]

coupler conversion for the kato iv is not that hard. I body mounted a mt on a A unit in lest then 5m. the set is now my front cars.

Is there even enough plastic on the frame to sink a screw into?

[ns737]

yes I drilled and tap the walkway. the plastic it thick it has held up for 3yrs. and counting. I did have to shim the coupler so it was the right height to the couplers on engines.

[Bob Horn]

Mine is over 5 years running, appears to be a MTL box mounted lid down and fitted with an Accumate coupler. Too long ago to give anymore details. Was the lead car on a 96 car train. Bob.

[Bob Horn]

OOPS !!!!! 48 cars, 96 cans!! Sorry about that!!!

[ednadolski]

You can still buy these from Intermountain (sales@edstrains.com).  Most of the sets are still available.

Actually they are not 

Ed

[ednadolski]

Bump... Anyone happen to have any dimensions of DI's Fix-It washers?   I'm planning to do some etchings and as the DI parts are long sold out, I thought I'd add some to my frets.  I'd prefer to get the dimensions as close to the DIs as possible.

(AIA if this has already been asked/answered, but my searching skills are coming up empty (like the rest of my head lately).)

TIA,
Ed

[ednadolski]

Bump again..... hoping that someone might have one of these that you could measure...?

IIRC, they were thicker than 0.010", but I don't have any to check.


Original image, for as long as the link holds:


Alternately:



A few other links, FWIW (mainly for posterity):

https://www.nscale.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-36662.html
https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?36662-Deluxe-Innovations-Gunderson-Maxi-Stack-Well-Cars&p=419342#post419342

http://deluxetrains.com/downloads/Maxi-StackIVMudFlaps.html
http://deluxetrains.com/downloads/Maxi-StackIVFix-Kit.html

[gi-depp]

Hi Ed,

I have three sets of the DI 53' Gundersons, two sets no washers and one with installed washers.
But only the two big ones.
I removed the washer and put it in the Box.

The thickness of the washer:

0,5mm thats 0.019685039 Inches





Sorry but I'm a metrical boy (Germany)

I hope I could help you.

Mike

[Englewood]

I have the fix it kits somewhere around here.... If I find them I'll get some measurements.
I didn't have enough fix it kits for all the Maxi IVs that I have, so I ended up going to a very well stocked local hardware store and bought the smallest washers they had. I believe they were #3 or maybe #2? (The big chain stores didn't have anything under #4.) They were bigger than the big washer in the fix it kits, but they worked. I didn't bother with the smaller washers, and they run just fine without them.

I do wish somebody would rerun these, they're great models and very needed for us intermodal junkies.

[GaryHinshaw]

I found the set I had.  I confirm that both washers are 0.5 mm thick.  The large washer has an o.d. of 4.35 mm and in i.d. of 3.35 mm (to within ~0.05 mm).   The small washer has an o.d. of 2.7 mm and in i.d. of 1.8 mm.

However, in looking over the Maxi sets I have on hand, I now remember that I simply replaced the end trucks with Micro-Trains 70T roller bearing trucks and removed all the washers.   This gives you free rolling trucks and the proper ride height.  The only thing to watch out for is over-tightening the truck screw.  On some of my sets, the bolster post is tall enough that this is not a problem, but on other sets, the post is a tiny bit shorter.  If the trucks bind, just back off the screw by 1/4 turn.  The screw fits snugly enough in the post that it seems unlikely to work loose.

[ednadolski]

I do wish somebody would rerun these, they're great models and very needed for us intermodal junkies.

Agreed, even in spite of the issues.   I picked up a few of these sets from IM in Longmont a few years ago, but there seems to be little or no chance of them ever being re-run.  (Double ditto for the fix-it kits.)

I found the set I had.  I confirm that both washers are 0.5 mm thick.  The large washer has an o.d. of 4.35 mm and in i.d. of 3.35 mm (to within ~0.05 mm).   The small washer has an o.d. of 2.7 mm and in i.d. of 1.8 mm.

Since metric makes my little head explode (rounding to 0.001"):

0.5mm == 0.020"
4.35mm == 0.171"
3.35mm == 0.132"
2.7mm == 0.106"
1.8mm == .071"

Seems it should be straightforward to include these the next time I run some etched parts (not exactly sure tho when that would be).  I usually use 0.010" so one would have to "double stack" ( pun) the washers.

Alternately, I could whip something up on the Photon....

I simply replaced the end trucks with Micro-Trains 70T roller bearing trucks and removed all the washers.

That does sound way simpler.  What wheelsets did you use in the MT trucks?  Is the ride height or coupler height affected?

Also, did you have any issues w/the trucks on the articulated joints?   IIRC some of them were rather tight/stiff.

(Now all that is left is to convert to the LEZ couplers )

Ed

[GaryHinshaw]

[More than you ever wanted to know about the DI Maxi-IVs.]

Here is a summary of the DI Maxi-IV "fix-it" options that I'm aware of.  The following pair of shots show the B well of a DI set as delivered with a single washer around the bolster post.  Note that the car is sloping down towards the right (B-end) of the car and the coupler height is low compared to the MTL gauge.  (The wheels on the B-end also rub a bit.)




Here is the same car with the fix-it kit installed.  This adds one more washer to the base of the bolster post and two small washers to extend the bolster so the screw doesn't bind the truck.  There is still a hint of a slope to the well, but the coupler height is good:




And another DI car with MTL 70T roller bearing trucks and all washers removed.  Now there is no slope at all, but the coupler height is too high: 




With the MTL trucks, the DI wells match up nicely with the Kato wells (except for the coupler height):



Since the cars basically don't run without some fix, and since the DI fix-it kit is no longer available, swapping in MTL trucks seems like the simplest solution.  It has the advantage that it uses readily available parts and produces the correct ride height.  It has the disadvantage that the coupler height is wrong. (I will correct that when I install LEZ couplers with printed pockets.  Fixing the stock couplers will require a shim of some kind.) 

That does sound way simpler.  What wheelsets did you use in the MT trucks?  Is the ride height or coupler height affected?

FVM 33", but almost any 33" wheel will do.

Also, did you have any issues w/the trucks on the articulated joints?   IIRC some of them were rather tight/stiff.

Honestly, I haven't run mine enough yet to tell.  But I agree that they seem kind of stiff, and I am a bit concerned about it.