Loksound Decoder Reset?

[tehachapifan]

Even though I've done several LokSound installs and done all kinds of CV adjustments, etc., I don't believe I've ever successfully performed a factory reset on one. Entering a value of 8 in CV8 doesn't seem to do anything, even after cycling the power off and on. I've tried entering zeros in front of the 8's to no avail. I've also tried to do this on the main, on the programming track and with the LokProgrammer. Nothing happens. Ideas?

The reason I'm trying is My Atlas N scale S2 seems to have completely died (I'm pretty sure the motor gave up the ghost), but I wanted to try a decoder reset before I tried to replace it. I get lights and sound but no motor movement unless I turn the flywheels manually and then I get brief movement. Not a wheel or track cleanliness issue.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Has to be easier than this:

[conrad]

Yikes

It's back to candles.

[tehachapifan]

Lol!

[Steveruger45]

Ha!   Really.   Simpler solution would be to return those bulbs and get new ones.   

What universe  does GE design department live in to think such a long- winded reset procedure is even acceptable and expect the average Joe or Jane  to have the patience to do it astounds me.

[peteski]

Ha!   Really.   Simpler solution would be to return those bulbs and get new ones.   

What universe  does GE design department live in to think such a long- winded reset procedure is even acceptable and expect the average Joe or Jane  to have the patience to do it astounds me.

The designers likely don't think at all - that seems to be the problem everywhere around me - dumb clueless people.  Products are designed by those people too.  Common sense is also in very short supply nowadays.

Yes, I'm yelling at the clouds - that is all I can do. 

[RBrodzinsky]

I see an opportunity here! Design a small extender plug with circuitry to time the on/off cycles. Could even have a small slider switch for procedure 1 vs 2. 

[peteski]

I see an opportunity here! Design a small extender plug with circuitry to time the on/off cycles. Could even have a small slider switch for procedure 1 vs 2. 

Sure, it could be a simple Arduino project, but how many do you think you could sell?  Not like there is a large number of people out there needing to reset their "smart" bulbs.  At least that's  what I think.

[Steveruger45]

I see an opportunity here! Design a small extender plug with circuitry to time the on/off cycles. Could even have a small slider switch for procedure 1 vs 2. 

Ah.   You actually had the patience to watch all of the instructional video then.  😁

[peteski]

Ah.   You actually had the patience to watch all of the instructional video then.  😁

So did I. Still shaking my head.    The older revision bulbs seem to have slightly faster procedure. 

[Steveruger45]

So did I. Still shaking my head.    The older revision bulbs seem to have slightly faster procedure. 

You know, I now just watched the whole reset procedure all the way through as I’m waiting on yet another darn windows update to finish.   Golly Gee sure looks like the future involves having a lot of patience with this stuff. 😂

I will stay with dumb bulbs, life is too short for this nonsense.

If GE or anyone wants to make really smart bulbs then integrate that procedure and anything else the boffins dream up, with Alexa, or whatever is controlling your smart home this week, to do so on a voice command and/or into the controlling app on your smart phone.

Rant over.   😀

[jdcolombo]

To get back to Russ's original post . . .

I've never had a problem doing a reset on a LokSound Select micro.  Setting CV8=8, then removing power for 30 seconds, always has done the trick.  However, it is sometimes hard to know the reset has actually occurred.  When I program a Select, I use the "overwrite defaults" command so that my file, with any alterations I've made, becomes the factory default - including the engine address.  So when I do a reset, the only way I know it has worked is if it clears up some operational oddity; the reset doesn't change the DCC address back to "03" because I overwrote that default with the new address, it doesn't change the sound levels, the horn/bell selection, etc.

If you really want to test whether a reset works, program something (if you can) in your decoder before the reset, then see if it changes.  For example, you said that the horn and bell work, but the motor doesn't run.  OK.  So set CV48 for some different horn.  Now do the reset.  Old horn back?  If so, the reset worked. 

John C.

[Steveruger45]

Thanks John for bringing us back on topic. 
I was only aware of the first part of your response.  The second part is really good to know.
It’s wonderful how how we help each other on TRW even when we drift off topic so much.
 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

2019:
NO FLYING CARS.

PASSWORD PROTECTED LIGHT BULBS.

It's not the future we want.
It's the future we deserve.

[conrad]

Yes, John is correct.

Making a simple CV change will verify that reprogramming worked.  This is what I do with my DB150 that does not have CV readback and my PR3 that often doesn't work with sound decoders.

I program on the main and verify with a horn, bell or momentum change.

Since I use JMRI it's not too much of a bother.

conrad