Advice re Model Power 4-6-2 Pacific

[BCR 570]

One of my students at school brought me a Model Power Pacific steam lcoomotive and asked for some help in repairing it.  The tender is detached at the drawbar but the wires are still connected.  I brought it home and put it on the test track and it does seem to run fairly well but it is pulling the tender along by the wires.

I tried to reconnect the drawbar but found it nearly impossible to hold the locomotive, see what I was doing, and guide the drawbar back on.  I also do not see any way for it to stay in place once there.

I am also observing that of the wires in the tender, there is a red one which appears to be terminated ie. not connected to anything.  Is that correct?

Any help appreciated,

Tim

[Chris333]

Is there a way to put like a 00-90 screw in to hold the drawbar?

[spookshow]

There's a plastic post on the tender floor that the drawbar loops around (the shell, once on, holds it in place) -



It's likely broken off, so you'll need to put a screw or something in there to replace it (as Chris333 suggested).

-Mark

[brokemoto]

The drawbar is still affixed to the locomotive, correctamundo?  If it is, then what Erie Chris told you about the screw is the way to do it.  I changed the tenders on some of mine to B-Mann SPECTRUM and recall using a MT coupler screw with a piece of plastic under the head (to keep the drawbar from popping off the top of the screw)  if I retained the MP drawbar.  It takes quite a bit of patience and time, and, at times, even a couple of screws, but, it can be done.  I would guess that tapping the MP tender floor would be easier.

There is also a pin under the cab of the locomotive that holds the drawbar onto it.  I have had a few drawbars pop off of that, as well.  It is not easy getting them back over the pin. 

If you take the cab off of the locomotive (two arms attach to the underside of the locomotive) it is extremely difficult to get the cab to go back on properly.

[mcjaco]

There's a plastic post on the tender floor that the drawbar loops around (the shell, once on, holds it in place) -



It's likely broken off, so you'll need to put a screw or something in there to replace it (as Chris333 suggested).

-Mark

This.  My Pacific suffered the same thing.  The post broke off and the drawbar had nothing to attach too.

[Mike C]

IIRC the red wire should go to one of the tender pick-ups .

[peteski]

IIRC the red wire should go to one of the tender pick-ups .

If it is red then probably to the right rail pickup.

[BCR 570]

There is a short post for te drawbar but after reading these posts I am wondering if perhaps the top part of it has broken off.  It seems too short to be able to retain coupling.

Will endeavour to try and get tender shell off for a better look.

THank you,

Tim

[narrowminded]

That post being broken is apparently very common.  I had two brand new ones (of four) that had them broken in the factory box.  The broken part was in there and had the break line that fits together well so I solvent welded them back in place but adding a screw would make sense and is what I'll do if they ever break again.

[brokemoto]

Once the post on the MP tender breaks, you might as well do the upgrade to a B-mann or Kato USRA standard.  If you use the B-mann USRA standard that is decoder ready and are not a DCC user, the two outer prongs on each side is where your wires go.  I am not a DCC user, so that is what I did.  If you do not have the B-mann "decoder ready" version, it is a bit more of a job, as the contact strips in the tender are held on by melted plastic nubs.  If you use the Kato, you can remove the bronze contact strips, solder, then replace.

An all wheels live tender upgrade improves performance markedly on these.

[BCR 570]

I spent some time on this locomotive tonight and successfully removed the tender shell:




I am seeing the following issues:
- the loose red wire appears to belong to the brass plate above the front tender truck; the black wire is attached to the rear one.  No problem to re-attach it.
- the post for the drawbar is very shallow and does show signs of the top part having broken off.  I will drill through and install a 00-90 screw, with a styrene tube bushing around it if needed.


Thank you for the advice,

Tim

[BCR 570]

Repair complete - soldered the wire to the lead truck, and installed the 00-90 screw.

No styrene tubing small enough for a bushing, so will see how it behaves with just the screw.

Time for reassembly and a test run.

Tim

[BCR 570]

Okay something is wrong - sparks coming from front tender truck pick-up.  Engine runs but erratically.

I made sure i had a good solder joint to the front tender truck pick-up with the loose wire, and made sure that the front tender truck wiper is contacting the axles.

Not sure what is going on?  Surely the screw touching the drawbar is not an issue?

Tim

[narrowminded]

Okay something is wrong - sparks coming from front tender truck pick-up.  Engine runs but erratically.

I made sure i had a good solder joint to the front tender truck pick-up with the loose wire, and made sure that the front tender truck wiper is contacting the axles.

Not sure what is going on?  Surely the screw touching the drawbar is not an issue?

Tim

Check the axle insulator orientation making sure that one truck has them both to one side and the other truck to the other side.  Each truck only picks up from one rail.  If axles have been removed and no attention to this orientation a short can exist.

[mmagliaro]

Check the axle insulator orientation making sure that one truck has them both to one side and the other truck to the other side.  Each truck only picks up from one rail.  If axles have been removed and no attention to this orientation a short can exist.

Yep. 

I have one thing to add.   Make sure that the "hot" wheels on each truck are both on the same side, as narrowminded pointed out, but also make sure that the truck with the red wire going to it has the hot wheels on the right (I believe this is the front truck), and that the other (rear?) truck with the black wire has the hot wheels on the left.   Some other sanity tests:

- flip the engine on its back in a foam cradle and  see if the engine will run if you just apply power directly to the red and black wires that are routed to the tender.   With no wheels touching any track, it won't matter what the trucks are doing for this test. 

- Still in the cradle, see if the engine runs when you apply power to the right and left drivers, then to the right driver and the black tender wire, then the left driver and the red tender wire.  This just makes sure that everything between the engine and the tender are oriented the way they should be: right rail, red wire and left rail, black wire.