GP15-1 with loksound and ditchlights.

[GM50 4164]

I just completed a install for a friend for his GP15-1 using a loksound 73100. Turned out very nice. The ditchlights are far brighter than the headlights though. I may add additional resistors to them.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

I think you can just dim the brightness using the Aux CVs... CV32 to 0, CV 278 - brightness Aux 1, CV286 - brightness Aux 2. The instruction manual is a little difficult to figure out but I was able to adjust brightness levels using the LokProgramer pretty easily. I had to adjust a few headlights like this when the wired SMD LED on one end was far brighter than the standard LED on the other. It would be a shame to have to undo any of that wiring.

[MK]

Sick, just sick!    Any frame cutting (I'm not sure in the picture on the back)?

[jdcolombo]

I think you can just dim the brightness using the Aux CVs... CV32 to 0, CV 278 - brightness Aux 1, CV286 - brightness Aux 2. The instruction manual is a little difficult to figure out but I was able to adjust brightness levels using the LokProgramer pretty easily. I had to adjust a few headlights like this when the wired SMD LED on one end was far brighter than the standard LED on the other. It would be a shame to have to undo any of that wiring.

Dan is correct.  You can adjust brightness on the AUX outputs via programming.  What you have to do is make sure that the Aux outputs are set in LED mode, and then you can adjust the brightness via a separate CV.  I do this on my LokProgrammer, but it is also easy to do with JMRI.  I don't ever do this by direct CV programming, so I can't comment on the CV's.  But there's no need to add a resistor unless you can't get the ditch lights dim enough using CV programming.

And . . . excellent installation work!  I'll put this on my master list of installs.

John C.

[tehachapifan]

Nice install!

One thing I've noticed with Loksound decoders when using brightness CV's to turn LED brightness down is that, starting at a certain point, at least some of the effects can be negatively affected....in that they don't seem to process the effect as nicely. This seems to get worse the more you turn to brightness down.  If the ditchlights aren't programmed to flash, this wouldn't be an issue.

[GM50 4164]

I think you can just dim the brightness using the Aux CVs... CV32 to 0, CV 278 - brightness Aux 1, CV286 - brightness Aux 2. The instruction manual is a little difficult to figure out but I was able to adjust brightness levels using the LokProgramer pretty easily. I had to adjust a few headlights like this when the wired SMD LED on one end was far brighter than the standard LED on the other. It would be a shame to have to undo any of that wiring.

Dan is correct.  You can adjust brightness on the AUX outputs via programming.  What you have to do is make sure that the Aux outputs are set in LED mode, and then you can adjust the brightness via a separate CV.  I do this on my LokProgrammer, but it is also easy to do with JMRI.  I don't ever do this by direct CV programming, so I can't comment on the CV's.  But there's no need to add a resistor unless you can't get the ditch lights dim enough using CV programming.

And . . . excellent installation work!  I'll put this on my master list of installs.

John C.

I went into the Aux 3 and Aux 4 adjustments page and brought the brightness level down from 31 to 8 I believe and didn't notice any change. I was up kinda late so I pretty much left it alone.  I'll take another look at it today.

Sick, just sick!    Any frame cutting (I'm not sure in the picture on the back)?

Yes there was a little towards the rear of the frame. On both halves, I brought the frame down to just about the height of the bearing springs. I use just a tad of Goo to hold the enclosure in place. Be careful that none get down onto the worm!!

[jdcolombo]

I went into the Aux 3 and Aux 4 adjustments page and brought the brightness level down from 31 to 8 I believe and didn't notice any change. I was up kinda late so I pretty much left it alone.  I'll take another look at it today.

I have to set the brightness at something like 1-4 to make a noticeable difference.  I've not done this for ditch lights, but I have done it for the headlight to differentiate between a "dimmed" headlight and a "full on" light to implement Rule 17 lighting.  I didn't notice any actual dimming until I lowered the value for brightness to below 5.

John C.

[mu26aeh]

I just completed a install for a friend for his GP15-1 using a loksound 73100. Turned out very nice. The ditchlights are far brighter than the headlights though. I may add additional resistors to them.

That friend probably thinks you're pretty great !

[mu26aeh]

@squirrelhunter , seen you're doing a GP15.  Check this out if you haven't seen it.

[John]

Is that white cube up front a keep alive thing

[mu26aeh]

Is that white cube up front a keep alive thing

To the right is the speaker housing (white), left side is the caps (keep alive equiv)

[Jim Starbuck]

Nicely done!

[RBrodzinsky]

Very nice!  I was just asked to install (my last) 73100s into two GP15-1s.  No ditch lights, so should be a quick and easy process based on this.  (yep, noticed I would need to "flatten" the back shelf down to the bearing spring)

[Southern1970]

Very nice!  I was just asked to install (my last) 73100s into two GP15-1s.  No ditch lights, so should be a quick and easy process based on this.  (yep, noticed I would need to "flatten" the back shelf down to the bearing spring)

Hi Rick,
If it’s not too much trouble can you please post a video of the GP15s running with sound.
Cheers
Allan

[mu26aeh]

Hi Rick,
If it’s not too much trouble can you please post a video of the GP15s running with sound.
Cheers
Allan

Here is the test subject of the thread