Author Topic: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?  (Read 831 times)

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Stephane

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #15 on: April 10, 2019, 07:59:27 AM »
+1
The print finished somewhere around midnight, and by then I was already in bed.  But this morning I couldn't resist taking a peek...

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0.02mm @ 9.5 secs, 8 x 80 second base.


Unfortunately, I'll only be able to clean and reveal the full print tonight after getting back from my daughter's dance class.  The good news though is that aside from some funny looking protrusions near the back wheels, all the supports survived as far as I can tell. 

It's going to be a long day :)


Stephane

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #16 on: April 10, 2019, 08:45:53 PM »
+1
The analysis continues! Anyone sick of these yet?  :D

The quick summary... 9.5 seconds is still too fast.

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I was wondering what the heck this was when the print was covered in goo, and now it's plain to see, I've got small failures here and there.  For some reason one of the first layers of tire treads migrated and solidified next to the wheels!  I'm also not entirely sure if the lightest supports detached during the print or during cleaning.

However, what I am seeing is that the bloating is just getting worse...

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(notice those lopsided green wheels? notice it doesn't appear in the gray print? that's because I noticed this a while back and added two more supports to each wheel to prevent it from happening :) )

Bloating is not only near the bottom, look under the back roof, and the edge of the roof in these pictures... no supports up there that would cause the bloating.

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I also wonder where the lines in the rear body come from?  In the cabin/windows I fully expect to see lines since the windows are at angle, but the body's sides are perfectly vertical.  The green print doesn't show these problems.  weird.  :?


Anyway, it's full circle time!  My next print will be back to the recommended 12 seconds.  I'm expecting that the supports will finally survive, and I'll be able to see the full extents of bloating.  What is really frustrating to me is why am I the only one that gets this bloating?  I can see that the tops of the prints are perfectly fine, and maybe a smidge less detailed than the green (and only visible under magnifier), but the undersides lose all details!


IronPenguin

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #17 on: April 10, 2019, 10:25:58 PM »
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First attempt. Probably more like z scale, but I just eyeballed it for size.  Lost a lot if detail, but I  scaled in Chtubox, probably should have done it in Meshmixer before exporting.
Phrozen ABS-Like gray.


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Bloating on bottom is something I'm seeing also.

IronPenguin

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #18 on: April 10, 2019, 10:28:06 PM »
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Stephane

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #19 on: April 10, 2019, 10:47:22 PM »
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The first time I printed the road grader I ended up close to 1/200 scale (that picture is in the second page of the 3D Printed Vehicles thread).  I'm not sure how I screwed up the scale then, but I noticed something was wrong when about a month ago, two graders passed on the road and I remembered that these vehicles are large!  Later that night I measured the model and googled the size again. whoops!

That's a rather strange looking resin you have there, why do you use that particular type? 

So far this gray experiment is really the only large amount of testing I've really done.  By luck I happened on really great 0.02 and 0.05mm exposure settings for the green resin (i.e. 7.5 and 10 seconds) on the first few prints.  Really, the only reason I started testing so much is this bloating issue.  Though I'm glad I'm doing so, now I'm finally seeing how things can go wrong, and how to correct.




IronPenguin

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #20 on: April 11, 2019, 08:29:46 AM »
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The resin looks strange due to camera.  It's actually is gray. Used my Chromebook cause its easier to post here.
I'm trying the Phrozen because it's supposed to give good details. Still playing with the settings. Haven't seen big difference. Price is the same.

Stephane

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Re: switched from anycubic green to gray.. what variable is wrong?
« Reply #21 on: April 11, 2019, 09:46:05 PM »
+1
The final test is here!

0.02mm at 12 seconds, 8 x 80 second base layer, as promised in the last test post, we've come full circle.

The print did not fail, and all the supports were where they should be.  However, my conclusion is that the Anycubic Grey just simply does not have the details of Anycubic Green.  Once I'm done with the Grey bottle, I'm going back to the green.

These two photos should illustrate perfectly why...

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Look at the clean gap between the body and cabin in the green.  That's just possible using the grey.  I wish I had bought 500ml of the grey instead of the full litre!


Now, well, I'm left with quite a job of painting :D

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Why so many wheels? :) When the bottle of green was near it's end, I tried one last print, but unfortunately ran out half way through the print.  I just kept parts that printed okay, and threw out the rest.  That's also why I'm keeping the failed grey 7.5s print - I've already cannibalized a rearview mirror to repair one of the 9.5sec greys (those rearview mirrors are a pain to keep whole during post-processing, they are so incredibly soft before going under the UV light for post cure!)

I'm sick of printing motor graders, time for something new!