Author Topic: Old Concor DL-109 N Scale  (Read 1138 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

atsfrules

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 34
  • Respect: 0
Old Concor DL-109 N Scale
« on: January 05, 2019, 09:46:41 AM »
0
I have an old Concor Santa Fe DL-109 from the early 1980's and it does not have a split frame.  Is there a way to convert to DCC or does anyone have any ideas on a frame that I can use the shell on?  Maybe a Kato mechanism?  I also have a MiniTrix Santa Fe U30CG that I would also like to convert.  Any thoughts or help is appreciated.

woodone

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 798
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +33
Re: Old Concor DL-109 N Scale
« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2019, 10:17:27 AM »
0
Got a photo of the loco? There some very small decoders out there. One of the smallest is one from ESU called the LokPilot Nano Standard.

Some other as well just don't recall all of the right now.  And you may have to machine some of the frame to get room.  Going to be a hard wire I am sure.

cgw

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 176
  • Respect: +31
Re: Old Concor DL-109 N Scale
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2019, 08:02:14 AM »
+1
Both of those engines require a wired install it is fairly easy.    I have done several with Digitrax dz123's   an inexpensive decoder.     It will take you about 30/40 minutes to it.       Unfortunately  I do not have any pictures of the install and the engines are long gone out of my stable.     No need to change out the mechanism unless the motors are shot.   For the DL109 you really cant change out the mech for a Kato without a lot of body work to the nose.    The coupler pilot   (if my memory works)  was part of the front truck assembly.   The frame is a split piece,  It has a top and bottom    all you need to do is to isolate the motor electrical connections.    Attach the gray orange leads to the motor,   Red and Black go to the power pickups    Replace the light with a LED with resistor, attach the blue and white lead to the light and your done .  The   decoder will sit on the back shelf of the mechanism. The Trix is straight forward install the back light shelf can be modified with a bastard file to create a pocket for the decoder to sit on.    Isolate the motor and attach the decoder and your good to go.       It may be possible to replace the mechanism with one of the new Arnold u28c mechanism which is far superior to the Minitrix.   Thant one is a pug and play mechanism.     The Kato Uc30/c30-7  mechanism can be made to work with some tweaking to get the shell to fit.   How ever the Kato mech is also a hard wire install.   


Bottom line:   you can fit any of the newer small n/z decoders hard wired to those mechanisms