Fox Valley Models HOn3/N Body Mount Knuckle Couplers

[CodyO]

Was wondering if anyone has used these and what they used for mounting them to the cars?

I`m thinking of using them as couplers on my N scale passenger equipment since they will be in fixed consists and its cheaper than Kato unimates.

[wcfn100]

These?



Jason

[Dave V]

Aww...  I got excited until I saw they're non-functioning.

[Bill H]

They are the old Red Caboose couplers, been around for ages...

[peteski]

They are the old Red Caboose couplers, been around for ages...

...and great for close-coupling Kato F-units.

[davefoxx]

...and great for close-coupling Kato F-units.

. . . and IM F-units, too!

DFF

[CodyO]

@Bill H, I know they have been around the block just never used them before!

@peteski and @davefoxx did you use screws or something else to mount them?

[davefoxx]

@Bill H, I know they have been around the block just never used them before!

@peteski and @davefoxx did you use screws or something else to mount them?

@CodyO,

If I still owned the FP7s, I'd check and tell you for certain.  I know I used screws, but I can't remember if they were the screws that held on the factory couplers or if I drilled and tapped into the plastic spacer between the frame halves.  I do vividly recall that I used the hole closest to the coupler on the shank and had to cut and round off the rest of the shank to fit without fouling the truck.  Obviously, there is no centering, but my FP7s stayed consisted, so it didn't matter.

Much better!



DFF

[djconway]

. . . and IM F-units, too!

DFF

And ER sharks.

[nkalanaga]

I only used the body mount style on one thing - a LifeLike F unit, that I gutted and filled with a AA battery and dome flasher.  The T-shank versions are on all of my early-run Kato F units, and work great.  The short shank style couples close, works fine (manually) with body-mounted couplers on other units, and stays coupled. 

[peteski]

I only used the body mount style on one thing - a LifeLike F unit, that I gutted and filled with a AA battery and dome flasher.  The T-shank versions are on all of my early-run Kato F units, and work great.  The short shank style couples close, works fine (manually) with body-mounted couplers on other units, and stays coupled.

It's been so long . . . You are right, on Katos the T-shank version is used in the rear trucks. That way the coupler can swing slightly. It is now coming back to me. 

[mplsjct]

I have an 80 car ore train I use them on, I mounted them with pan head screws. They are non functioning as mentioned, but you can couple by pushing two cars together, they will snap into coupling. I also use them on Kato F units, for close coupling, as mentioned, I used the T shanks for this application.

They work well on my ore train, as they don't need to be uncoupled, they hold together well, and, unlike the Intermountain dummy coupler, couple together tightly, without excess slack.

 

[nkalanaga]

And, especially on a unit train, where it isn't likely to be pushed regularly, there's no need for any type of centering.  Just let the coupler swing freely, and it will align itself while pulling.