Anycubic Photon

[narrowminded]

So Windex (ammonia?) affects the FUD resin (from Shapeways)?  That is interesting, because that stuff is resistant to much harsher solvents (like Heptane or Naphtha). Good to know.

Apparently it does.  Even though it was an accidental discovery I am going to do a couple of experiments using some FUD trees that came with these parts with the possibility of using it as a technique.  And I only mention it here because it may apply to this resin as well, based on Mark W's report of his experience on those treads.

The possible use I am envisioning is to help install snap in parts, inside bearing axles specifically, where I had a problem breaking the FUD part when "snapping" the axles in.  They broke the part two out of three times.   If I could soak the parts and soften them without damage, snap the axles in, rinse thoroughly, then I'd be in business.  If it works without harming the material I'm sure other uses would surface.

[Mark W]

Apparently it does.  Even though it was an accidental discovery I am going to do a couple of experiments using some FUD trees that came with these parts with the possibility of using it as a technique.  And I only mention it here because it may apply to this resin as well, based on Mark W's report of his experience on those treads.

The possible use I am envisioning is to help install snap in parts, inside bearing axles specifically, where I had a problem breaking the FUD part when "snapping" the axles in.  They broke the part two out of three times.   If I could soak the parts and soften them without damage, snap the axles in, rinse thoroughly, then I'd be in business.  If it works without harming the material I'm sure other uses would surface.

This sounds very interesting.  Any pics to show these parts you're trying to fit? 

The softening technique sounds plausible, though maybe risky and tedious.  I'd also like to see a comparison of the part in UV resin to know if it survives the snap-in process, unlike FUD.

[Mark W]

Just received my next 500ml of resin.  This one in opaque Grey.  The label suggests 20-80sec for bottom layers, compared to 20-60sec for transparent green, but seemingly counter it suggests 3-15sec for normal layers, compared to 5-15 for transparent green.  For .05mm layers, I've been using 80sec bottom and 12 second normal with the green.  For my first test print in Grey, I'll use the exact same settings. 

[wvgca]

Mark W ... just wondering how many N scale figures you might get out of a half litre of resin ....
i know you lose due to supports, cleanup, etc ..     roughly any ways .. ??

[Mark W]

Mark W ... just wondering how many N scale figures you might get out of a half litre of resin ....
i know you lose due to supports, cleanup, etc ..     roughly any ways .. ??

Oh, hundreds, easily.  Possibly thousands. 
Everything I've done up until now was is with only a quarter litre.




Ok, I have my first failed print.  Let it be known, different brands of resin, and different colors of same brand resin, each require unique print settings. 


https://i.imgur.com/zJ0ffzR.jpg


You can see the failure happened by ripping the parts from supports.  This could be one, or a combination of three things:
1. Too long cure time, sticking the layer to the FEP film (fix by reducing exposure time)
2. Too much being cured at once per slice (fix by angling part or adding more supports)
2a. Too few supports.


https://i.imgur.com/Acv89Ey.jpg

Since this one was close, maybe 80% successful, I opted to reduce the normal layer exposure by 2 seconds and try again. 


EDIT:  If you haven't seen the Trading Post, I have 4 Kato Mikado drawbars which I printed with one part placed incorrectly.  They are 95% functional, but since they're incorrect, I'm offering them for free to anyone willing to run them through a stress test workout.  If you need a 100% replacement part, I have those too for $5ea!

I also have a handful of the v1.5 tank treads, and a few stagecoaches that have minor defects from my incomplete clean and cure process early on.    These parts could be given life with a little TLC, but for me, they're rejects.  If you want a sample part to play with and are willing to provide your feedback on durability/print quality, PM me an address (US only please, unless you're willing to cover postage).  Sorry, no mini Naomi's available.

[rodsup9000]

  I got mine all set up and ready to print. This will be my first trial print that I'll do tomorrow.
 It's a oil tanks that will fit the Kato mike tender. I still need to add the latches like the coal load has.


 

[Lemosteam]

@rodsup9000 , is that model hollow? Just curious.

[rodsup9000]

@rodsup9000 , is that model hollow? Just curious.

 Yes, the walls are .9 mm thick

[Jesse6669]

For those of you just getting started in 3D modeling try TinkerCad. It seems rudimentary but for teaching you 3D modeling techniques it is really great and anyone at any level can learn it. I’ve designed a whole 3D printer with it.

It’s free it’s easy - it can get as complex as you need it to be. Oh and did I mention it’s all browser based no software to install.

I agree completely.  Even if you go to, say, Solidworks later-- TinkerCad is a great way to go.

DUOH.. Moving to other thread on CAD software, I didn't see until I caught up to the next page.. mods feel free to delete this post if you want.

[Mark W]

Ok, the past 24 hours haven't been too fun as the Grey resin is giving me all sorts of fits.  I can see how people on that Facebook group are having so many troubles. 

TLDR:  Keep track of all your variables, expect to test new resin brands/colors for optimal print settings. 


Each individual fit is a relatively simple problem, but it's not an exact science so there's where the things get blurry.  The first thing I noticed upon opening the grey is that it was much more fluid than the green.  Melted ice cream is how I'd describe it, where as the green was more maple syrup.   Add on top of that that the grey is opaque rather than transparent, and there is your ingredients for a very different experience.

My first few prints had layers puling away from the supports around the edges.  At first, I thought maybe the layer was being exposed too long, sticking the resin to the FEP.  But then I noticed by reducing the exposure by 2 seconds, the 'vignette' effect of layers pulling away from the supports increased, only the middle most objects printed successfully.  The combination of those two variables would indicate the layer exposure actually needs to be increased.  Fall-off from the bulb around the edges meant the more opaque (and more liquid) resin was not fully curing, and the supports could not, well, support. 

So I went from 12 seconds, down to 10, then up to 16 and that gave me a successful print!   

But like all good scientists, repeat-ability is key.  The second print at 16 seconds revealed a drastically uneven plate.  It must have been bumped or something, resulting in the print half way peeling off the plate throughout the run.  So I cleaned the plate, removed the vat, and re-leveled.  I also discovered, make sure all corners of the build plate are as level as possible. 



Now, while waiting for each of those initial grey prints to run, I began working on another replacement part for the Kato Mikado: the detail set!

Here's where we start to feel relieved after all that trial and error.


These things are super tiny, and the supports between the spruce is very fragile.  You can see one has already made the trip to the beyond.


https://i.imgur.com/XTsmrdH.jpg


But, they work! 


https://i.imgur.com/nNxcC92.jpg

[Chris333]

The chart I posted says:
14
1
90
8
for grey.

I saw a kit to change the bed leveling set screw from 1 to 4, called the EasyZ0. I'm not sure if anyone in the US sells it though.
https://www.fepshop.com/shop/anycubic-photon-2/anycubic-photon-easyz0-kit/


I sure am glad to see you working out all the bugs for us   

[tom mann]

This is amazing stuff guys, and I'm even more amazed since it almost came out of no where!

[RBrodzinsky]

Mark, I assume you are using some 3D scanner to crank out these models so quickly?   New Mikado detail parts could be a gold mine!

[Mark W]

I'm still getting a little bit of platform peeling.  The last print was almost there, but need to bump the bottom layer exposure a little more and I think we've got Anycubic Grey resin figured out!

Another good technique is to use a naming convention for your .photon files.  For instance, I name files like so:

TankTread3Set_AycbGreyResin_L50_B110_N16.photon

[Name and # of parts]_[Brand and color of resin]_[layer height microns]_[Bottom exposure seconds]_[Normal layer seconds].photon.

Mark, I assume you are using some 3D scanner to crank out these models so quickly?   New Mikado detail parts could be a gold mine!

Nope, the old fashioned way using calipers and patience!  Things will probably slow down tomorrow with the start of the new job. 

But yes, it would be great if the Mikado Detail Sets can bring in a little seed money for some larger projects!   

[rodsup9000]

The chart I posted says:
14
1
90
8
for grey.

I saw a kit to change the bed leveling set screw from 1 to 4, called the EasyZ0. I'm not sure if anyone in the US sells it though.
https://www.fepshop.com/shop/anycubic-photon-2/anycubic-photon-easyz0-kit/


I sure am glad to see you working out all the bugs for us   

 Chris, where did you post is chart???

 When I can use my hand a little better, I would be willing to mill out the parts for that leveling kit. It look like it's just a piece of aluminum milled a hair wider that the head, with holes tapped for the screws that hold it to the head.


 Started printing my first 2 pieces of the oil tank. One is right side up and the other is upside down.