Small, interlocking model railroad electronics enclosures

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I've realized I'm going to need some portable electronics for my TTRAK adventures. Things like circuit breakers, auto reversers, etc...

In keeping with the modular and easy to use theme of TTRAK I wanted to make these modular and easy to use. Likewise I also want them easy to store and transport. And finally, I want them to be "smart" to use, so they easily stack or lock together and so I don't have a ton of them littering a table looking all messy.

I looked on Amazon to see what was available, figuring someone might've already done this. I was surprised that the only thing I found was too small and there wasn't much variety. This was somewhat surprising given the size of the electronic "maker" community. Even Adafruit has left me wanting.

So I decided it might just be a fun project to design my own.

My first task is figuring out what my "unit" dimensions should be. This should be derived from the largest thing I'll want to enclose.

On one hand, I've thought that maybe that should be a PR3, but I think instead I'll work off of the Digitrax "Panel" dimensions so I can put a UP5 on the front of one.

Other commonly enclosed items would be Digitrax AR1s, and Tony's OG and OG-AR circuit breakers.

Is there anything else I should be thinking of that I'd want to enclose and "rack"?

[RBrodzinsky]

Consider the PSX and PSX-ARs, as well.  You have the AR-1 listed, but if you ever switch to the PSX line, make sure you can accomodate. Also, think about connectivity to the components and from them to the track bus or accessories.  For bus connections, highly recommend using Anderson PowerPoles, or the like, for easy connect/disconnect. 

If you don't  mind going a bit larger, you might want to consider including a PSX-3 or PSX-4 in a single enclosure. Track input on one side, the 3 or 4 protected outputs on the back, and unprotected track output on the other side.  Doesn't matter how many you use.   Also, for circuit breakers, highly recommend an on-off-on DPDT for each breaker's output, which can reverse the polarity. Fixes all sorts of problems if the protected series of modules is wired backwards (and can be troubleshot/fixed later, rather than during show.)

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Oh yeah, the PSX and PSX AR are good thoughts.

I've listed the AR1 only because I currently have an unused one. I know they're crap and don't ever plan on getting another.

As far as connectivity, I plan on leveraging the Kato connectors. I found an article with details about where to find them (they're not proprietary).

Also, good idea about the toggle on the circuit breakers.

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/wiring-with-kato-connectors-2381856

These connectors are not proprietary to Kato, but they are most commonly used in radio controlled hobby applications. The connectors Kato uses are called Mini Tamiya/Kyosho connectors. The tamiya connector is the female housing with male pins. The kyosho is the male connector with female pins and the clip tab that holds it to the tamiya connector. Kato uses these connectors with 22 gauge blue/white pair for track power, red/black pair for turnout switching.

These connectors can be obtained from Maxx Products. A kit with housings and pins for one tamiya and one koyosho connector sells for $1.50 at the time of this writing.

It is part no. 2913. Individual tamiya and koysho connector housings and pins sell for $1.00 each. The tamiya is part no. 2917 and the koyosho is part no. 2914. These require a standard molex type crimp tool capable of crimping .062" diameter pins, such as the GC/Waldorm W-HT-1921.

[Steveruger45]

Hi Ed,
Yep, I bought some of those mini-tamiya/Kyosho connectors for my layout wiring where I needed to connect more than one Kato turnout to the Kato turnout switch and keep each turnout complete without cutting off the fitted connector.  They work great.  Be careful though as there are some out there that say they are these connectors but they are cheap Chinese copies that don’t fit well with the ones Kato uses.  The cheap Chinese ones work well with their own though.

[tlaswell]

Make sure Arduino's are on your list.  I would think the largest being an Uno, a Mega is probably overkill for a single TTRAK module.

Are you thinking of a full blown rack system or some sort of inter-connectable module that would fit under a TTRAK module?  AFAIK there isn't much under most, it's not like people store legs under them like they do NTRAK modules.  I would even consider small project boxes with magnets to hold them to each other like a certain manufacturer has their inter-modal containers held together.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Make sure Arduino's are on your list.  I would think the largest being an Uno, a Mega is probably overkill for a single TTRAK module.

Are you thinking of a full blown rack system or some sort of inter-connectable module that would fit under a TTRAK module?  AFAIK there isn't much under most, it's not like people store legs under them like they do NTRAK modules.  I would even consider small project boxes with magnets to hold them to each other like a certain manufacturer has their inter-modal containers held together.

Oooh, Arduinos are good thoughts.

I was thinking more along some sort of "rack" like system (although self supporting). This way, when setting up, you can have a nice neat little stack that has your auto reversers, power management  (ie, circuit breakers), DCC radio panel,  and anything else just stacked up neatly next to the base station. Or, if stuff needs to be distributed, it can be easily stacked on the table behind or even under the modules, and you don't have a rats nest when it's time to clean up and go home.

This was one of the things I noticed when watching Bruce Arbo's interview with Cody about the recent huge TTRAK layout. The modules are great, but when it comes to power, it seems like a nightmare.