Author Topic: SP Tunnel Motor  (Read 4917 times)

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tom mann

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SP Tunnel Motor
« on: May 16, 2005, 06:13:00 PM »
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Here it is so far, 1/2 finished.  Any comments from the western guys?  TiVo?

engineshop

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2005, 06:20:40 PM »
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Great job but I don't think you are already half way done. I still can read Southern Pacific.
I love the rust around the "Southern" letters.

TiVoPrince

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2005, 06:40:52 PM »
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Couple of items to ponder.
Unless you are modeling post 1990 the grunge tended to be more gray than brown.  Because the metal is thinner on the cab and sub base it tended to rust much earlier.  Also if the rust monster had infested the engine room doors the upper doors would be light gray as the paint burned off.  Don't forget the Microscale red decals for lettering that appeared when the white flaked off and revealed the reflective red backing.  If you can find the firemans side roof vent (used to be a Sunrise Ent. part), wind deflectors and the cab arm rest...
Support fine modeling

CNWlivesinme

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2005, 08:34:14 PM »
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My two cents, okay realistically 1/2 a penny....

Did you work off a prototype photo? There have to be a butt load floating around and it seems to be what you are always suggesting. Growing up on the west coast I should have paid attention, but I didn't  :?

Maybe go look at the previous thread with the HO SP tunnel and see what can be taken from there? That seemed to be a wildly popular engine, even I loved it  :roll:

tom mann

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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2005, 10:59:00 PM »
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I'm actually working off of John's photo...maybe his work is better than the prototype :shock:

There seems to be a contrast problem with my model...the weathering isn't popping as it should...hmmm...

ryourstone

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2005, 03:26:47 AM »
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Tom, looks like a good start. There is definitely a contrast issue like you said, here are a couple things that might help:

1. The roof should be rusted over and faded at least as heavy as the sides (especially the cab, as mentioned). Then, at the exhaust stack, put a really dark coat of black chalk. Have a little coming down the sides, but don't overdo it there.

2. The walkways should be even worse looking than the roof, lots of fading and rust. Then, at the area that lines up with the exhaust stack (and you have that little bit coming down the sides) completely coat the walkway top with the black also. Then carry this down the centers of the walkways in a slightly random pattern, and tapering off after an inch or so. This will look like the soot has been tracked along by crew members. Some of this mess will also run over the side of the sill in streaks, especially where there are steps or stanchions and runoff would accumulate.

3. Trucks (this will be hard without an airbrush). Maybe try a black wash, wiped down, and then a dry brushing of light brown to bring out the detail more. Then use chalks for sand residue.

4. Lighten the fuel tank more with kicked up grime, and coat the small horizontal surface with light grime too. Then your fuel spill will stand out more, and you can even carry down the black exhaust chalk work from before a little too. Also I would hit the pilots behind the plow with some grime.

5. Possibly, and this is getting into real small stuff, but a dark wash around some of the red nose detail and some darker rust (burnt umber) at a few spots like the battery box handles might help.

-Rich

4x2dsp

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2005, 07:30:02 PM »
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SWEEEET!!!
Great looking TM Tom!  A heavy dusting of sand under the frame from the mountain grades around here (Tehachapi), and it would look like it just came off of dedicated helper service.   :twisted:   Now if I could just finish detailing any loco, I could finally start weathering some of my equipment too. :cry: Thanks for the motivation.  Nice work!

tom mann

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« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2005, 08:34:39 PM »
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Thanks everybody.  I've already started working on another layer based on Rich's suggestions.  

I think it's helpful to post unfinished models on the weathering forum.  It's a great way to force yourself to take a break and get some valuable group feedback.   If you work in layers with thin coats of thinned acrylic, it's easy to build up another layer or remove a previous layer.

I think I've seen every tunnel motor photo on the net in the last day 8)

tom mann

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« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2005, 05:08:44 PM »
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Here she is with a little more work done to her.  Still some more work to do.

CNWlivesinme

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2005, 06:39:54 PM »
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She is a beauty :mrgreen:

mellow-mike

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #10 on: May 20, 2005, 12:26:04 AM »
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Hey Thomas!

Here's one more prototype for you, buddy....  :?  I couldn't get the complete roof, but it's more than just a side view!  Pretty rusty, too.


  [/img]

Chris333

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« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2005, 12:48:39 AM »
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Hey Tom that looks pretty good.


On the proto photo... do they replace the decals after a while? They look nice and shiney, bright.

Red Rock

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SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2005, 04:34:42 PM »
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It is looking really good Tom.  Blackening all the grills up more, and maybe darken the roof more too (but not the cab shade), might give it a little more contrast.
I just noticed how all the hinges and latches really stand out too in Mike's photo.
Red Rock

SOUPAC

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Re: SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2006, 10:13:09 PM »
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My favorite engine and, for whatever reason, all the picts (except Mike's proto foto) are a little blue square. This is my very first post on this forum, and I'm finding it a very, very interesting place, but I've noticed this happening quite a bit.. Some are visible and some are not. I don't think its me, because some picts are fine, but I sure would like to see the finished product along with the photo's, especially on this thread, posted so far.
RICK

nscalesteve

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Re: SP Tunnel Motor
« Reply #14 on: August 18, 2006, 11:17:58 PM »
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yeah Thomas (scnr) where are the pictures... ?   :-\