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I have never soldered etched parts before; any special materials or techniques different from electrical soldering? One would obviously have to use a very fine tip and some fine solder. Any issues getting solder to flow onto the parts? I guess these are in my future if an M-630W is coming . . . . .Tim
The rosin-based electronics flux (like the stuff Radio Shack used to sell in a white jar with a screw cap) works wonderfully on etched brass parts. A little drop at the joint and then the solder flows in like water. You can use just a tiny amount of solder, too, and it will make a strong joint, which makes for very neat joints that don't need much filing or other cleanup afterward. And it is not acid-based so it's very safe to use.Beyond that, your other assumptions about using a very fine point tip and very fine solder are spot on. I would also suggest some silver-bearing solder (not "silver solder", but silver bearing solder. The joints are significantly stronger.
I couldn't use the S chassis for the S13 because of the high exposed frame, the Atlas deck is solid metal and the Bachmann frame has a metal plate underneath it. For an S6 the Bachmann is ideal, because I can make a shell only woth etched details to fit the complete mechanism.
Hi Craig,Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your experiences with this kit. It's looking great so far! I just got my two kits from Jeff in the mail yesterday and I'm looking forward to putting them together but that may not be for a while (other projects to finish first, of course). Your notes and advice will come in very handy.I presume you will finish these two in BCR paint? Have you decided which units you will do?PhilippeModelling BC Rail, North Vancouver, ca. 1987
My friend Doug Hicks, who was an electronics technician in BCR's radio shop for many years, does not use flux when soldering, and I have now learned to solder without it which is cleaner. You do have to ensure that your iron is sufficiently clean and hot.
As I mentioned previously, flux should only be used when soldering brass or some derivative thereof. Unless it is non-acid flux, it should never be used on electronic parts or, if it is, the parts should be thoroughly washed after soldering.
As I mentioned previously, flux should only be used when soldering brass or some derivative thereof. Unless it is non-acid flux, it should never be used on electronic parts or, if it is, the parts should be thoroughly washed after soldering. Sure, you can use just the rosin core solder to do brass, no problem. However, it is much easier and faster to apply a small amount of paste flux to the item and then apply the solder and heat simultaneously. Both methods work so use whatever method moves your needle. There's no "wrong answer" here.Doug
While I agree with your statement, you seem to be contradicting yourself by not including the word "acid" in the first sentence. There are plenty of non-caustic fluxes which can be safely used on electronic/electrical and non-electrical parts.