Briggs Models MLW S13 review and build thread.

[briggsmodels]

Craig, your models look great so far. I can't wait to see them finished. I liked how you soldered the handrails together off the model.

I have mostly US appeal products planned for the near future. M630 and M630W parts are just waiting for parts to arrive, then Canadian Alcos are done for a while. Next up are SDL39 kits, that's US, then GP38-2W and GP40-2W shells, which now operate all over the US. 

Thank you very much, for the great product exposure.

[craigolio1]

Thanks Jeff.

For the next set of handrails I opted solder them on the fret. They are very delicate and I found with all of the handling required they got bent out of shape easily. This way worked out better.

[craigolio1]

Craig, your models look great so far. I can't wait to see them finished. I liked how you soldered the handrails together off the model.

I have mostly US appeal products planned for the near future. M630 and M630W parts are just waiting for parts to arrive, then Canadian Alcos are done for a while. Next up are SDL39 kits, that's US, then GP38-2W and GP40-2W shells, which now operate all over the US. 

Thank you very much, for the great product exposure.

These handrails are the nicest I’ve worked with. If you ever wanted to do etched handrail kits for ??? Locos. I’d be in.

[BCR 570]

I have never soldered etched parts before; any special materials or techniques different from electrical soldering?  One would obviously have to use a very fine tip and some fine solder.  Any issues getting solder to flow onto the parts?  I guess these are in my future if an M-630W is coming . . . . .

Tim

[craigolio1]

You probably should have a bunch of special stuff, but I don’t.

I use a Weller Butane iron which is too big and too hot. It does have a fine tip. I don’t even know what solder I have but I’ll check.

If I can figure out how to post a short video I’ll put one up.

These handrails are soldered from the rear so I clean the back up with a file.

Craig.

[craigolio1]

I have never soldered etched parts before; any special materials or techniques different from electrical soldering?  One would obviously have to use a very fine tip and some fine solder.  Any issues getting solder to flow onto the parts?  I guess these are in my future if an M-630W is coming . . . . .

Tim

Tim I made a short video for you. I’m no video producer but hopefully it answers any questions you have about the process.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="

frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[BCR751]

Although not to be used with electrical components or copper wire, a little bit of paste flux works wonders on brass.  I use one of those micro brushes, dip it in the paste flux to get just a little bit on the tip, deposit that on the area to be soldered and then apply the heat and the solder at the same time for just an instant.  I've used this method to solder 0.006" brass wire hand rails to Gold Medal Models stantions and it works great.  I then use a soft toothbrush and warm soapy water to go over the part to remove any residual flux.

Doug

[craigolio1]

Although not to be used with electrical components or copper wire, a little bit of paste flux works wonders on brass.  I use one of those micro brushes, dip it in the paste flux to get just a little bit on the tip, deposit that on the area to be soldered and then apply the heat and the solder at the same time for just an instant.  I've used this method to solder 0.006" brass wire hand rails to Gold Medal Models stantions and it works great.  I then use a soft toothbrush and warm soapy water to go over the part to remove any residual flux.

Doug

I’ve done the same on GMM handrails. I prefer solder to CA since I can fine tune positioning.

[BCR 570]

Thank you for the tutorial!  I have a fine cone tip for my Weller 35 which will work well in this application, and the fine solder from Fast Tracks will work well here too.

Tim

[craigolio1]

Thank you for the tutorial!  I have a fine cone tip for my Weller 35 which will work well in this application, and the fine solder from Fast Tracks will work well here too.

Tim

Cool. Just make sure your flux is not an acid flux, or to Doug’s point wash it really well after. You’ll have to wash them anyway even with resin flux. I just got an ultra sonic cleaner I’m looking forward to trying as much find even a soft tooth brush is a hammer when I use it. Haha.

[briggsmodels]

Wow!! Here's to hoping they do some of the other Alco "S" units, like maybe an SP S6!

I have been considering the ALCo S6 for a while now. The question I would have is, would modelers want a body kit to fit one of the S series models available, (Atlas, Bachmann) or an entire model, to use available drive parts?

[johnb]

I have been considering the ALCo S6 for a while now. The question I would have is, would modelers want a body kit to fit one of the S series models available, (Atlas, Bachmann) or an entire model, to use available drive parts?

the Bachmann would be a  decent starting  point due to the cost

[sirenwerks]

How about a T6 body that fits the Bachmann chassis?

[tehachapifan]

I have been considering the ALCo S6 for a while now. The question I would have is, would modelers want a body kit to fit one of the S series models available, (Atlas, Bachmann) or an entire model, to use available drive parts?

Great question but not easy to answer. I personally have an extra LL switcher chassis or two just laying around but that's just me. Guess it comes down to what's going to remain available to use. Would it be too difficult to offer one that uses the LL/Walthers switcher drive components like your S13 does and also offer just a shell that can perhaps fit the S2 or S3 drive? All this said, I'd be in for maybe one S6 model. So, please take what I suggest with a grain of salt.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

If only I could hire you to design a PD500 etched detail kit!

BTW my P&W M420s are coming along nicely. I may add Loksound to them.