Opinions Wanted on a Narrow Gauge 3-Way Turnout

[Dave V]

I had this amazing 3-way #6 code 70 stub switch built for my by Jamestown Trains with the intent of using it at Rico. I was going to use it at the north end of Rico where the main splits into the house track and yard trackage but I’m getting a little gun shy about having a stub switch on my mainline. I have no doubts about the quality of this beautiful piece of track work...but I do have doubts about my own ability to lay it such that it will be as reliable as it should be, given my struggles with Atlas code 55 in N scale. Debating instead using it as the second Rico 3-way into the enginehouse and relying instead on a pair of traditional ME #6s to split off the house track and yard ladder. It would not look as prototypical but still having at least one 3-way in the yard would help with the illusion.  Thoughts?



Also would be glad for any advice on how to actuate and power this switch.  At the moment I'm leaning toward using a SPDT slide switch for the mechanical positioning and a Hex Frog Juicer to power the outer frogs.  The switch has isolated frogs already.

[Chris333]

I would think a stub switch would be more reliable than point rails. The hard thing would be lining up the center position. You can make stops for left and right.

[Dave V]

I would think a stub switch would be more reliable than point rails. The hard thing would be lining up the center position. You can make stops for left and right.

Fortunately there are phosphor bronze stops already installed.  But yeah, it's getting the center position right that makes me nervous.

[eric220]

Could you maybe use two tortoises such that one drives the turnout and the other moves a block that adjusts the resting position of the throw wire? Basically tortoise 1 is installed as normal, and tortoise 2 stops the wire at center or allows it to fully throw.

[Dave V]

Could you maybe use two tortoises such that one drives the turnout and the other moves a block that adjusts the resting position of the throw wire? Basically tortoise 1 is installed as normal, and tortoise 2 stops the wire at center or allows it to fully throw.

I hadn't intended upon using any tortoises for two reasons...  1) I want this to be interactive so I prefer to "bend the iron" by throwing the switch manually and 2) I have 4" of foam atop the plywood.

[eric220]

Fair ‘nuff. How about a 3-way switch aligned to center the switch at the center position, and stall out at each end? You could even mount it on a screw/bolt/threaded rod such that you could tune the center position to keep it perfectly aligned.

[Dave V]

Fair ‘nuff. How about a 3-way switch aligned to center the switch at the center position, and stall out at each end? You could even mount it on a screw/bolt/threaded rod such that you could tune the center position to keep it perfectly aligned.

You said words.  But I didn't understand them.

EDIT:  One of the RGS guys recommended this:

http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products/dual3way.html

Again, wasn't planning on mounting stuff under the layout but if I can work through 4" of foam, I can make it work.

[up1950s]

Somehow spring load the switch to the center position . Do it in such a way as tightening a screw increases spring pressure and loosening that screw decreases spring pressure on the left side . Do a clone for the right side . You now have absolute control of aligning to center and how much static pressure is applied . Then use 2 switch machines for left and right . But to realign to center both left and right switch machines need to be aligned for straight to allow springs to do its dialed in center alignment .

[Chris333]

Mount one of these out the the layout edge:

[pdx1955]

I would think that you could use some sort of centering spring to keep it aligned and then use a slide switch to "force" the points over left and right. That way the "default" position would be for the mainline.

[Chris333]

http://usmrr.blogspot.com/search?q=switch+stand

[Point353]

I had this amazing 3-way #6 code 70 stub switch built for my by Jamestown Trains with the intent of using it at Rico.

Also would be glad for any advice on how to actuate and power this switch.  At the moment I'm leaning toward using a SPDT slide switch for the mechanical positioning and a Hex Frog Juicer to power the outer frogs.  The switch has isolated frogs already.

You might want to see if this actuator is still being made:
http://www.g-m-e.com/new_page_2.htm
http://www.g-m-e.com/menu.html

[Dave V]

You might want to see if this actuator is still being made:
http://www.g-m-e.com/new_page_2.htm
http://www.g-m-e.com/menu.html

This looks quite similar to the Tam Valley system.  I may give them a call and find out more about whether it'll work for my setup through 4" of foam.

[Philip H]

Pretty sure @AlkemScaleModels has a stubbienor two on his Aquia Line. You might reach out and see how he handles it.

[Dave V]

Pretty sure @AlkemScaleModels has a stubbienor two on his Aquia Line. You might reach out and see how he handles it.

But a 3-way?  The challeng with a 3-way is unique...getting the center position perfect every time.