Boardman River Branch switching shelf

[davefoxx]

How do you cut this?  I have so much trouble cutting metal that is that small.  My razorsaw just binds and binds and I can't imagine how to hold it steady. 

When I need to transition the rail between two different rail heights, I just squish one-half of the rail joiner with pliers, trying to get as close to the larger rail as possible.  Then, I just knock the corner off of the base of the smaller rail with a file to allow the rail to butt up to the larger rail.

This is HO, but the principle is the same:



Hope this helps,
DFF

[CRL]

When I need to transition the rail between two different rail heights, I just squish one-half of the rail joiner with pliers, trying to get as close to the larger rail as possible.  Then, I just knock the corner off of the base of the smaller rail with a file to allow the rail to butt up to the larger rail.

This is HO, but the principle is the same:



Hope this helps,
DFF

As modelers, we sometimes overthink solutions to the most complicated approach. This is clearly the easiest solution.

[dcarrell8]

When I need to transition the rail between two different rail heights, I just squish one-half of the rail joiner with pliers, trying to get as close to the larger rail as possible.  Then, I just knock the corner off of the base of the smaller rail with a file to allow the rail to butt up to the larger rail.

This is HO, but the principle is the same:



Hope this helps,
DFF

I just added this to my book of "Important techniques"  A very genius solution to a common problem in rail height transition.  It looks like you have filled the gaps in your frogs with something.  Is it epoxy or something similar?

[davefoxx]

I just added this to my book of "Important techniques"  A very genius solution to a common problem in rail height transition.  It looks like you have filled the gaps in your frogs with something.  Is it epoxy or something similar?

It's just 0.010" styrene pushed into the gap cut with an Atlas razor saw. I dipped the styrene in a puddle of CA before placing it in the gap.  Once the CA dried, I used files to trim the styrene back to the rail profile.  Once painted, it's almost invisible.

Thanks,
DFF

[freedj]

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I finally got the track painted and primed.  It looks like my masonite slider left some fibers on the rail that needs to get blown or picked off.  Nothing like close up photos to make that stuff stand out!

[txronharris]

The track crew has been very busy this week.  Track has been laid through both turnback loops, aided by my 3d printed track staples.  Since the Atlas track has a lot of spring in its flex and I was struggling to get a good result with T-Pins alone, i designed these staples to help lock the track down while I apply the glue and weights.  Between the staples and overlapping the joints between segments I couldn't be happier with the results.  I have put my longest rolling stock through the helix and so far everything seems reliable.

I am hoping to connect the loops up with a shoefly later today and run some trains!  I'll come back and put in the second staging track and permanently link up the loops after I modify the two turnouts it needs with the solid point rails and pcb throwbar.  I need the switch machine to be centered under these two turnouts due to space considerations.

I've put the staples up on thingiverse if anyone wants to print their own: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3664708

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Been watching this one and appreciate the engineering you've done to get things right. How big did this helix end up being? looks like it's not even 3ft square. I'm wanting to do return loops as well and something compact like this might work for me. Nice job on everything else too, by the way.

[freedj]

After a long hiatus building out a basement office for my wife, progress on the railroad has resumed.

I've got some base color and dirt texture down and a road cut to fit.  I've also started planning the next section of the layout and bashing together some cardstock mockups of structures for it.  I wish that I would have spent more time thinking about structures and structure placement in the first iteration.

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[freedj]

How big did this helix end up being? looks like it's not even 3ft square. I'm wanting to do return loops as well and something compact like this might work for me.

The helix ended up being 24" in diameter from the outside edge to the outside edge.  The inner loop is 21.5" in diameter from outside to outside.  There is a 1 5/8 railhead to railhead separation.  I can get a hi-cube boxcar under the bridge.  I really like how the helix is NOT stacked.  With the center lifted out its really easy to maintain.  All that being said,  Its coming out.  I have a lot of trouble getting equipment up the helix and my 3 axel locos dont like the combination of the grade and the 10" radius inner loop.  I can get a 5 car train up the helix most of the time, but there is wheel slip when its happening.

If you build something like this accuracy really matters.  My layout is on shelf brackets and I think the front edge has sagged slightly and that slight sag is enough to make the grade impossible.  Once i shimmed the brackets under the helix it works again.

Best of luck with your turnback loops!

[freedj]

I have the styrene cut and fit for the road.  I used 0.03 thick styrene and I am wishing I had used 0.02 instead.  I'll need to thin it out where it comes onto the ties so that it is well below the rail.  I'll also need to reprofile the road bed just a bit so that it goes down or stays level between the two tracks.

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[freedj]

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This is a first draft of a track plan for the other side of the room that includes an attempt at scenery and non rail served building placement. The shelf is 16” x 8’.  The left side goes behind my computer and the right side transitions onto a lift out section that will have a low long trestle scene on it. 

Mainline turnouts are all #6 with a few #5s for the industry sidings. Mainline minimum radius is 24” with the left leg of the wye at 18”

I’m not sure what to do with the uncolored triangle on the right. The rightmost edge is open to the room and is a viewing angle.

While I do have some structures noted, everything is open for suggestions including track and road placement. 

[freedj]

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This is my first shot at static grass and ground cover.  I used 2mm and 4mm grass in this shot over fine sifted dirt as a scenery base.  This is the backside of the helix so the hill to the left and trees will hopefully disguise the track in the canyon.

I think i've probably left too much dirt in this scene compared to this proto photo.
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I have some 1.5mm grass I could try, or I could go to fine ground foam for these pieces.  I'll also be trying some sedum tree armatures up next to the backdrop before diving into the supertrees armatures.

I also put a new Loksound v5 direct micro in that Atlas U25B and it sounds and runs great.  I think its my most reliable runner at this point, but the mech is a bit more noisy than I want at faster (20 scale MPH) speeds.  I have bearondized it already and that helped quite a bit.  It is also one of my best pullers.  I'll post some photos of that after I take it back apart for weathering.

[MVW]

Looks pretty darn good to me! Especially for a first try.

What are you using for an applicator?

Jim

[MDW]

Looking great!
I’d add another texture as opposed to more static grass.   The more materials & textures, the better.......

Michel

[dem34]

Looking great!
I’d add another texture as opposed to more static grass.   The more materials & textures, the better.......

Michel

And Colors.

If freed has an airbrush, a couple touches of varied filters really makes even 2mm grass pop.

[Philip H]

I'd add some scenic tufts for the larger weed clusters, some fine ground foam over all of it, and then maybe a few small flocked branches for some of the smaller shrubs.

You have a great start.