Author Topic: Tender for Model Power/MRC 4-6-2 / 2-8-2  (Read 675 times)

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nickelplate759

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Tender for Model Power/MRC 4-6-2 / 2-8-2
« on: April 04, 2018, 11:38:27 PM »
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So ... I picked up a new production Model Power/MRC 4-6-2.  It doesn't have DCC+Sound installed.  I want to make an NKP Pacific out of it. There are a few things to do, but the first things relate to DCC and thus the tender.    It needs drop-equalizer tender trucks, and could use better power pickup.  The desired tender should resemble a USRA medium tender, possibly with an extended coal box.   I have a Bachmann tender off a light 4-8-2 that has the right trucks and the right shape.  As I see it my options are:
1. Substitute the Bachmann tender for the Model Power tender:
   Pro - the Bachmann tender looks better and the trucks already fit.
   Con - the tender drawbar is very different from the Model Power tender and will take substantial rework.
2. Fit the Bachmann trucks to the Model Power tender
  Pro - the drawbar won't need to be changed
  Con - the Model Power tender isn't nearly as nice, and the truck pickups will probably have to be hard-wired.
3.  Substitute a Kato USRA tender and somehow get the Bachmann trucks to work
   Pro - It's a Kato, and nice, but not really nicer than the Bachmann
   Con - both the drawbar and the truck-based power-pickup will need work.

Does anyone have experience with a similar conversion?  The trucks are interchangeable with regular Bachmann tender trucks, so that's not the hard part.


George
(that's my real name)

NKPH&TS #3628

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

brokemoto

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Re: Tender for Model Power/MRC 4-6-2 / 2-8-2
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2018, 08:53:26 AM »
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I am not a DCC user.  I have swapped out the factory tender on the eight wheeler, mogul, mikado and Pacific.  I  have swapped in the Kato on the mogul, the B-mann on the others.

The first thing that you do is remove the B-mann drawbar, then replace the front truck.  For some reason, unless you want the tender to sit funny, you must fashion a washer out of styrene for the front truck.

Your next task is to remove the wires from the MP tender.  I remove them at the solder point in the tender.  You then separate the tender and locomotive.  You leave the drawbar on the locomotive.

The next step involves a test fit.  Pop the shell off the B-mann tender,  Put the locomotive-cum-drawbar onto your workbench then push the tender up to it.  Get it as close as you can without its lifting the drivers off the workbench,  Center the drawbar and mark it. 

Get out a set of pin vises and a Micro-Trains coupler screw.  (You must have at least fifty-eight of those things in your parts box).  Tap a hole with the appropriate size pin vise where you marked it.  This is a bit of a slow process, as you do not want to break the pin vise.  Take your time, take care, if your joints start to ache, take a break.

Fashion a "washer" out of a piece of styrene.  It really does not matter what size it is, as long as the measurement across it is greater than the measurement across the tender end of the drawbar.  This is to prevent the drawbar's riding above the top of the MT coupler screw and popping off its post.  Screw the screw through the "washer".  Screw the screw into the hole that you tapped.  Again, take your time lest you bend the screw or strip the head.  If you do either (or both), simply back out the screw with a pair of needlenose pliers, get out another screw and start again.

The tender end of the drawbar is a clip.  Simply clip it to the screw.  The separation that you get is about the same as the factory rigging.

Another thing that I have found necessary, to accomodate the wiring, is to cut out the panel below the ledge (I assume where the fireman would stand to shovel coal).  I keep the ledge, but cut out a slight opening, only as wide as the coal doors,  below it.  You can not see it when the locomotive and tender are running.

I have not had a problem with drawbar's coming unclipped from the post.  My passenger trains average four passenger cars and two express cars.  I have pulled six and two express, just to see what it would do.  I had no problems with the drawbar's coming unclipped then, either.  These are mostly MT cars, with a few WOT, Kato and RR cars, as well.

If you are feeling really creative, and, if you can find the appropriate details and short four wheel trailing truck, you could bash a NYC&StL Hudson.  Those things were little more than a USRA light Pacific with a four wheel trailing truck.  I have seen only one or two photographs of those things, and at first, I thought that it was a USRA light Pacific or a copy.  Then, I saw the four wheel trailing trucks.

Please let me know how it works for you.

nickelplate759

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Re: Tender for Model Power/MRC 4-6-2 / 2-8-2
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2018, 09:12:10 AM »
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Thanks for the detailed write-up, brokenmoto.  The procedure you describe is similar to what I did to attach a Rowa tender to a 2-8-2.
George
(that's my real name)

NKPH&TS #3628

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.