When Springs fly...

[nkalanaga]

Now that would be neat.  If you don't want to sell them, maybe MT would be interested in making them? 

[Cajonpassfan]

"Drop of what?"  I use a wet finger, when I need anything at all.  Usually the springs go in nicely with just the knife.  And, yes, I use the same technique as Chris333 and Peteski.  Did we all learn before the "assembly tool" was developed?

Now, the 903 couplers are another story.  Even when they first came out I couldn't get them together and working right.  I buy the assembled 905s.  Don't know why the difference, as the design is identical.

And, yes, getting the springs apart is the biggest problem.  Surprisingly, we have the same problem at work - and those springs are an inch and a half long, 3/4 inch in diameter, and made of 1/16 inch wire.  They still come in coiled together in the box.  Others cuss at them.  To me, they're easy to separate, after fighting with coupler springs!

IMHO, life is too short, and modeling time too limited, to spend it assembling MT couplers, especially 903's.
Even if one becomes proficient at it, how much money is saved? I just buy them assembled and move on...
Otto K.

[nkalanaga]

Assembling ones own would save quite a bit of money, if one has a lot of cars.  But as you said, life is short, and they're simply to frustrating.  I can do 1025s without thinking about it, but 903s?  No way...

[diezmon]

I've already got a bunch of packs of unassembled couplers, I'm sure not tossing them    I buy assembled typically, but some of these are from before the assembled packs were readily available. 

[craigolio1]

I store my springs on small safety pins.

[strummer]

I store my springs on small safety pins.

Great idea!

Mark in Oregon

[peteski]

I store my springs on small safety pins.

. . . after you untangle them first. 

[atsf3751]

I keep mine in the capsules they come in. Since I have about 100 capsules full of springs, too many to sort.

[djconway]

Rule #1 when working with Micro Trains couplers salvage all usable parts from broken couplers.  If you break the knuckle, keep all of the unbroken parts.  After 45 years in N scale I must have 200 or more "extra" springs.

[diezmon]

by the way, does MT sell packs of the mounting screws?  I can't seem to track them down.

[diezmon]

by the way, does MT sell packs of the mounting screws?  I can't seem to track them down.

scratch that. Found 'em   

[nkalanaga]

Any 00-90 screw will work, although you might have to experiment to find a head that doesn't stick up too far.  On 1015 boxes flathead screws work fine, and those are easy to find online.  They'll also work on 1025s, if one uses a drill bit to "dish" the hole in the box.  I use a 1/8 inch bit spun between my fingers. 

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Anyone else lick the spring? I find the saliva keeps it from popping around as much.

Anyone?

I'll see myself or out.

A few other tricks:
Counter sunk screws are available in eBay cheap. They help with tight body mount installations.
If you need to counter sink a specific cover box... Say a 2004, ream the bottom of the coupler box with a small Phillips screwdriver. It will open up the hole just enough for the screw but won't damage the post or other internal parts.
Assemble the parts in a large salad bowl. This keeps wandering parts to a minimum.

[peteski]

Anyone else lick the spring? I find the saliva keeps it from popping around as much.

Anyone?

I'll see myself or out.

A few other tricks:
Counter sunk screws are available in eBay cheap. They help with tight body mount installations.
If you need to counter sink a specific cover box... Say a 2004, ream the bottom of the coupler box with a small Phillips screwdriver. It will open up the hole just enough for the screw but won't damage the post or other internal parts.
Assemble the parts in a large salad bowl. This keeps wandering parts to a minimum.

I also countersink in many installations, But why struggle with a Phillips screwdriver as countersinking bit when 1/8" dia. countersink bits are readily available and they make that task much easier and cleaner.  I use a single-flute version for really clean self-centering job.

[nkalanaga]

I use regular 1/8 drill bits from the hardware store for countersinking, and plain flathead screws.  Turned by hand, the bits don't "drill" so much as "scrape", and do the job very neatly.  But either type of bit would have to be easier than a Phillips screwdriver.  And while regular flathead screw heads don't perfectly match the angle of the hole, they work fine, and are easy to find. 

As for saliva, yes, I've been known to use some on couplers, but I don't lick the springs.  I usually lick my finger, then scrape the saliva off with the knife blade I use for picking the springs up.  Licking the spring seems to be a good way to swallow one...