Weekend Update 3/11/18

[wazzou]

This is true, but separate steps aren't all that rare.

Short porch. 

[Kentuckian]

Nice bash. I like the different color lighting, too. Perhaps the top floor is too bright?

[diezmon]

Not that bad.   I like what you did with the skewed bridge. Kitbash, or scratch?

@C855B ,

that's a kitbash.  it started as a walthers straight bridge. 

[alhoop]

@160pennsy - That's a really creative bash there Paul. 
The only thing that would stick out to me as unlikely are the twin stairs.  This may be a result of the way the kit pieces had to be utilized in order to conceal cuts/splices but I would expect it would be more common or more importantly less expensive to utilize a shared stairway to a landing at the top.
Good job.

Nah, it's two rentals each with its own set of stairs.
Al

[trainforfun]

train4fun .... your pix are not showing up.

Thanks for telling me .
I was able to see them after I post but now I can't see them anymore ....

I don't post often but did the same as when I posted around Christmas . Was there any change since then ?
I posted directly from my Google storage .

[C855B]

Thanks for telling me .
I was able to see them after I post but now I can't see them anymore ....

I don't post often but did the same as when I posted around Christmas . Was there any change since then ?
I posted directly from my Google storage .

Much discussion has transpired on TRW about Google images not being reliable for linking; apparently the URL is unpredictably dynamic. Probably best to use the site's internal image hosting features: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=42854.0

[wm3798]

@160pennsy , typically the top of the window is consistent, while the bottom of the window might vary depending on what the use of the room is.  (Kitchen counters won't generally have long windows behind them.)  Not to say that what you've got there wouldn't occur in nature.  Victorians are anything but typical.

But one thing's for sure...


You better put a cricket between those two roof lines, or you'll have to remember to model water stains and buckets on the floor for sure!  (Run a ridge cross wise between the two ridges you have, then put roof planes down to the front and rear walls to shed water to the outside...  More likely, there would be a main gable that runs side to side on the house, and the little pointy bits on the front facade would just be dormers off of that. 

But otherwise, the lighting and kitbash are smashing!

Lee

[160pennsy]

@160pennsy ,
But one thing's for sure...

You better put a cricket between those two roof lines, or you'll have to remember to model water stains and buckets on the floor for sure!  (Run a ridge cross wise between the two ridges you have, then put roof planes down to the front and rear walls to shed water to the outside...  More likely, there would be a main gable that runs side to side on the house, and the little pointy bits on the front facade would just be dormers off of that. 

But otherwise, the lighting and kitbash are smashing!

Lee

@wm3798   Thanks for the tips and compliments BUT to help me (and all the other other newbies/forum members) better understand the below jargon, what if you crank out one of those famous architectural 3d drawings you love to post or mark up my photo and show us what your referring to? Pictures are worth a thousand words

A,) cricket 
B.) ridge cross wise between the two ridges
C.) roof planes down to the front and rear walls
D.) main gable that runs side to side on the house

[160pennsy]

However .. the 2nd floor side windows don't line up with the front wall ones.
That was a big flaw of these kits -- every wall had windows at different heights.

@OldEastRR   To solve the side wall window alignment w/front bay windows flaw, my thoughts for YOUR future kit bash are:

1.) Buy extra kits to give you more parts to kit bash with
2.) Cut up those extra side walls to give you blank long clapboard pieces w/chimney (slicing front to back) using the clapboard bottoms as guides
3.) Use said clapboard wall slices to splice in the extra few feet between top & middle floor windows so that they now align better with the front bay windows
4.) Add splice backer plates (.020 +/- styrene) behind the cut up walls for added strength and reinforcement

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Not exactly modeling per se, but I discovered Esther's Hobby Shop in Pittsburgh this weekend.  Significant damage to the credit card, which is still smoldering... 

RLS

Hahahahah. That place is AMAZING.

Also amazing? The bakery a few doors down, and the pharmacy/diner across the street.

That block radiates greatness.

[chicken45]

There's also a decent espresso place across the street on the corner.

[wm3798]

You asked, so I'll do my best to oblige...



The yellow lines are ridges, the orange lines are valleys.  The blue arrows indicate the direction water flows off the roof.

Without putting something there to direct water toward the outside of the building, you end up with what we call in the business, a trough.  Water courses down those two interior roof planes, and then seeks its own level.  When there's a long level trough like that, it will find its way under the shingles and into the house.  Raising a ridge between them will help direct water toward the front and rear of the house, instead of letting it pool and leak inside.

Now, unless you're modeling weather systems using baking soda and vinegar, or some other witchcraft, this shouldn't be an issue on a model railroad that's housed indoors.  But if you're taking pains to model the proper diameter rivets on your K-4, and scoff at the idea of using a 54 ton hopper with ribs space 49 inches apart when that isn't PRR practice, you can't cut corners on your houses, either.  Just sayin.

Lee

[160pennsy]

You asked, so I'll do my best to oblige...



The yellow lines are ridges, the orange lines are valleys.  The blue arrows indicate the direction water flows off the roof.

Without putting something there to direct water toward the outside of the building, you end up with what we call in the business, a trough.  Water courses down those two interior roof planes, and then seeks its own level.  When there's a long level trough like that, it will find its way under the shingles and into the house.  Raising a ridge between them will help direct water toward the front and rear of the house, instead of letting it pool and leak inside.

Lee

Thank you for the explanation @wm3798.. I do have extra kit roof parts that could be cut up to make the "cricket" between ridges but it's not happening soon. Trying to finish up the LED & window treatment details on 5-6 additional structures in preparation for having my Johnstown, PA module in NMRA NTS 2018 Kansas City T-TRAK layout. The clock is ticking with only 4+ months left to finish.









Started working on this T-TRAK module back in 2013 when our NRMRC club began to explore the layout potential for this N-scale modular format

[Jbub]

That back drop is stunning with the models in front of it.
Nice job!!!

[Cajonpassfan]

Yes, very nice, Paul. I really like the feel of the place. Nice job!
And about the cricket: nowhere does it say its ridgeline needs to meet the other ridgelines. A much lower cricket, with gentle slopes in both directions will take care of the drainage issue just fine, and using tarpaper in lieu of matching the roof would not be out of the ordinary. It could be a very simple fix of placing two equal triangles made of black paper, each half the length of the roofs, into the valley. Voila, no leaks
Looking forward to your progress.
Otto K.q