Redoing the LOKsound Select Micro on an Atlas B30-7

[AKNscale]

So I finally decided to get started on redoing the setup on one of my B30's. The back story is that when finding out how much I really enjoy the LOKsound I was weary to do an install myself. So I paid to have my 2 B30s done so I could figure it out from what they had done. When I got them back I had some issues with them. The problems were immediately taken care of by the installer so all ended up being well for a short bit. Eventually one of them died, the other one runs well still but I want to upgrade the speaker from the 8X12mm that's in both of these to the 9X16mm I've been putting in all my installs and some other stuff. So, I ordered extra frame sets so that I could test my decoder placement without worrying about damaging the frame.

Here's the dead loco right now as setup by the installer:

I will strip it, test the decoder to ensure that the decoder isn't fried, rewire it, then remount/reuse as much as I can from the original install in the new frame.

Here's the milled frame. I like the idea of a fuel tank mounted decoder so that's where I'm going to mount it if possible:


I did run into a snag at the last bit of milling:


I cracked the frame right where the fuel tank meets the rest of the frame. I've fixed it so we'll see how well it holds up.

Next I should be stripping the old loco. I really hope the decoder is still good...

[AKNscale]

So I got to stripping the old setup. After dismantling it I hooked the power wires to my program track and to my excitement, the decoder works! I'm quite happy! After verifying that it operates I test fit the decoder in the frame:




This is looking down through the motor mounting location. That hole is where the wires will be coming up through:


On to rewiring!

[AKNscale]

Ok, so I finished the rewire(I forgot to wire the second speaker wire before I took the pic):


Then I double checked the decoder fitment again:



Straight shot of the wire routing out of the fuel tank:


Final Test:

Success!

Next I'll be hooking up the motor and power leads, or fitting the new speaker...

[MK]

Those wires won't get in the way of the motor/assembly?

[peteski]

You are doing this because you will be able to mount the decoder flat in the fuel tank (as opposed to being mounted diagonally in the upper chassis)?  Are you going to add more weight (lead?) to the top of the chassis to compensate for the metal you removed from the tank?

[AKNscale]

MK: Negative, if you run them properly you can run them up the side of the motor without issues.

Peteski: Exactly, putting the decoder in the tank instead of up top will allow the installation of a 9X16mm speaker. No, I have no plans to add extra weight. However, I do have a scale and intend on finding out the weight difference between the first install and my install.

After my last post I decided to get the speaker mocked up:


From there I set the power pickup wires, then assembled the loco enough to test it.

Once on the track it passed with flying colors!

Next I should be hooking up the speaker and uploading the new sound scheme into the decoder!

[tehachapifan]

Nice, clean install thus far! Interesting that you managed to get the decoder in the fuel tank! I went with the much-less-involved way on my B30-7 and B23-7 installs and did those like shown in your first photo (the shell being wider towards the rear on these models fits the Select Micro perfectly!). I'm curious if you can get the shell to seat all the way down as the speaker and enclosure assembly still appears a bit too tall as compared to the frame.

[peteski]

Looks good AKNscale!  But unless you don't care how many cars this loco can pull, I see quite a bit if space on the top of the chassis where some lead or tungsten could be added to give the loco more traction.

[AKNscale]

Russ: Thank you! I'm hoping it will turn out as I'm expecting, so far so good! It should fit, there's quite a bit of space between the top of the frame and the shell unlike other units.

Peteski: Thank you! Truth be told, I do but don't. My layout is level and the trains won't be bigger than 10 cars. I will check the weight when I'm done, and eventually check the pull power as others will certainly want to know before considering doing this kind of install. If it is severely weakened and needing extra weight I will certainly do so and document it. Tungsten? Hopefully that won't have to be the case though...

Not much progress tonight. All I did was program it with the new file and hook up the speaker:

[peteski]

Curious. Is there a reason you positioned the speaker the way you did?  Why not  turn it 180 degrees to have the terminals face the center of the frame? That would shorten the speaker wires and make the install IMO cleaner.

[AKNscale]

Peteski: I agree, the reason I had it turned that way is because I was initially thinking that the high point of the connection tabs might not clear the body due to it being so close to the start of the radiator. But, I put the body by the frame and it looks like it will clear. To be safe I'll cut the high points off as I've done on another install(SD50 I believe) and then I can turn it with no chance of a clearance issue. Thank you for that suggestion.

Ok... tonight started well, then took a turn for the worst. Luckily I was able to salvage the night on a good note.

I started by hooking up the existing lighting and lubricating/installing the rest of the drivetrain. I runs quietly and smoothly, and all the lighting worked flawlessly. I then picked my horn, bell, and programmed all the functions as I want them. Then I decided to start working on the functioning beacon. It went downhill from there quickly. I couldn't get the beacon to work(I was messing with aux 3, not aux 1). I should have known better, but decided to take the locomotive apart to check my wiring just in case. In taking it apart I squeezed the frame too hard and recracked it. Luckily I was able to fix it properly again. Of course this happened for no reason as everything was good with the decoder, but oh well, at least I checked. Once reassembled I couldn't get any power at all. To correct that I had to move the power wires to the brass pick ups on the tank. Not my favorite way of doing it but I'll be able to hide it when I'm ready for final assembly:


Everything is back to running/functioning beautifully. Hopefully I'll finish it tomorrow, I just have to mount the beacon, organize the upper wiring, then assemble it.

[peteski]

Peteski: I agree, the reason I had it turned that way is because I was initially thinking that the high point of the connection tabs might not clear the body due to it being so close to the start of the radiator. But, I put the body by the frame and it looks like it will clear. To be safe I'll cut the high points off as I've done on another install(SD50 I believe) and then I can turn it with no chance of a clearance issue. Thank you for that suggestion.

Those springy speaker terminals are designed for the as-intended (solderless) installation where the gold plated tips are held under pressure against metal pads on the PC Board of whatever device utilizes those speakers.  But in our installs those springy terminals can be bent down or even trimmed not to stick up that far.  Then the wires can be soldered. That is how I do it.

Ok... tonight started well, then took a turn for the worst. Luckily I was able to salvage the night on a good note.

I started by hooking up the existing lighting and lubricating/installing the rest of the drivetrain. I runs quietly and smoothly, and all the lighting worked flawlessly. I then picked my horn, bell, and programmed all the functions as I want them. Then I decided to start working on the functioning beacon. It went downhill from there quickly. I couldn't get the beacon to work(I was messing with aux 3, not aux 1). I should have known better, but decided to take the locomotive apart to check my wiring just in case. In taking it apart I squeezed the frame too hard and recracked it. Luckily I was able to fix it properly again. Of course this happened for no reason as everything was good with the decoder, but oh well, at least I checked. Once reassembled I couldn't get any power at all. To correct that I had to move the power wires to the brass pick ups on the tank. Not my favorite way of doing it but I'll be able to hide it when I'm ready for final assembly:


Everything is back to running/functioning beautifully. Hopefully I'll finish it tomorrow, I just have to mount the beacon, organize the upper wiring, then assemble it.

I'm glad there is a happy ending to this adventure.  Well, I suppose we will know for sure tomorrow.

I also noticed that you seem to be using a "liquid electrical tape" to insulate the in-line resistors (which are regular old-fashion leaded resistors with trimmed leads).  The liquid tape is a good idea.  But the resistors are still a bit on the bulky side. If you were to use SMD resistors instead, it would result in even more compact assembly. Just solder the wires to the metalized ends of the SMD resistor, then coat it with the liquid tape or use a piece of small-dimaeter thin-wall heat-shrink tubing. This comes in handy in our N scale models with very limited space.

[AKNscale]

Peteski: I agree with that too as I've seen a few installs on here using the smd resistors. I would do the same, I just haven't taken the time to figure out what all I need to get to make the resistor boards. I honestly don't even know what the stats for these resistors are as they come with the LEDs.

It's been a good morning so far as everything(except the cap set) is hooked up and operating. I've sealed all the connections that need it and am now just waiting for it to dry:


Looks like I'm still on track to finish today!

[Steveruger45]

Nice install.
As far as smd resistors, I use 0805 size 1kohm and solder it directly on the negative side side of the led then just solder the blue wire to the led positive side and the yellow or white to the resistor. Afterward I glue these led/resistor sets to a scrap piece of styrene and liquid tape the bare connections.

[Steveruger45]

Oh, and then glue the led/resistor sets on the speaker enclosure back wall for the rear light and between the caps terminals for the forward light. This way I have an untethered shell.