Issue with BLI PRR Mountain

[mmagliaro]

If you can estimate the size of the washer from the one on the other side, I can send you one.
Measure it, post here, and then we can do a PM for me to mail it to you.

For some odd reason, I have a freakishly versatile collection of steam locomotive mechanism parts.   

In the meanwhile, the key should be to look at the orientation of that crank on the OTHER side and put
your troublesome one in the same way.  Get the crankhole on the other side around to the dead bottom, note
how the crank is oriented, then get your problem side around to dead bottom on the same driver, and orient the
crank the same way before you press it in.

[shark_jj]

Max, that is very generous and thankyou for the offer.  Truth is that we struggled so much trying to put the broken side back together that the thought of taken the good side apart to check the size of the washer is just too daunting.  I am going to rely on Broadway for the fix. 

[CNR5529]

So @Paradise275 and I met up with @shark_jj earlier today to have a quick look at his M1a. This happened...



I was able to find a very close match for the washer that went visiting the floor gods. Just had to ream out the I.D. a little to match the original, and the thickness was spot on. Got it all reasembled and ready for testing.





The real question is what caused the bind in the first place? I think the crank pin on the lead driving wheel interfered with the crosshead guide, which was bent inwards a bit. Moved it back out and things seem to have enough clearance now. Tomorrow I will test the locomotive to make sure nothing is binding or out of whack.

[peteski]

Now that is some *REAL* TRW teamwork and camaraderie!  Nice job guys!   

[shark_jj]

Frederick, that looks great, I really appreciate the help.

John

[mmagliaro]

The original problem, as reported, was that the crankpin just fell out while running.  This was not necessarily a jam.
It could have just worked its way out of the hole because it wasn't in there tightly enough to begin with.

AFTER that, while trying to put it back together, he started having jams.  That crosshead guide could easily have been bent inward just from handling while trying to fix it.  And since he started having jams after that, that would be my guess.

In other words, this sounds like it two problems.  The original problem being that the crank fell out, and then a new, second problem, being the crosshead getting bent inward.

I think you have both problems fixed since you noticed the bend and corrected it, and it runs now without jamming..  Very nice work all around, gents.

I would keep a close eye on that crankpin.  Crankpins don't normally just "come out" unless they are not pressed all the way in to begin with or there is some other flaw - like the pin hole is too big, or there is a hairline crack in the hole that allows the pin to keep working loose.  If the pin starts working out again, try putting a tiny drop of ACC or even Walthers Goo in the hole with a toothpick before you push the crankpin back in.  It doesn't take much to make them stay put.  The pulling forces on that pin are not great.  But they are steady, so a little adhesive may be needed to keep it from working its way out.

[CNR5529]

Crankpins don't normally just "come out" unless they are not pressed all the way in to begin with or there is some other flaw - like the pin hole is too big, or there is a hairline crack in the hole that allows the pin to keep working loose.

Thanks for the insight Max. Indeed, the series of events leading up to the final problem were a bit blurred in my mind, as I was so focused on the image of the crosshead guide bent upwards, then seeing it bent inward in person. I also agree with what you said: crankpins shouldn't just come out. During reassembly the pin felt very secure, certainly as much as the other side pin was, and as much as the second reference M1a was. I have started testing the locomotive at multiple speeds, through tight reverse curves, and in both directions to see if anything comes to light. Nothing has jumped out at me for the time being, but I will run it some more over the next few days. If the pin does work its way out again, I will secure it as you suggested. Drop of glue at the convergence of 3 siderod etchings you say?    Easy peasy 

Side note @shark_jj , the hitch you mentioned after the first reassembly appears to be resolved. I'll give you a call in a few days after a bit more testing.

Fredrick

[mmagliaro]

Thanks for the insight Max. Indeed, the series of events leading up to the final problem were a bit blurred in my mind, as I was so focused on the image of the crosshead guide bent upwards, then seeing it bent inward in person. I also agree with what you said: crankpins shouldn't just come out. During reassembly the pin felt very secure, certainly as much as the other side pin was, and as much as the second reference M1a was. I have started testing the locomotive at multiple speeds, through tight reverse curves, and in both directions to see if anything comes to light. Nothing has jumped out at me for the time being, but I will run it some more over the next few days. If the pin does work its way out again, I will secure it as you suggested. Drop of glue at the convergence of 3 siderod etchings you say?    Easy peasy 

Side note @shark_jj , the hitch you mentioned after the first reassembly appears to be resolved. I'll give you a call in a few days after a bit more testing.

Fredrick

Whoa, Nelly!   If you use the glue, don't try to put it on the pin or the rods!  Really, put it DOWN into the hole, where it
won't get on anything else like the rods.  A straight pin or the tip of a round toothpick with some glue on it will get it down in there quite safely.  It's not as bad as it sounds.  And if you have to do this, and you are really nervous, then after you put the pin in, put a little drop of oil on the juncture of those 3 rods.  Just the presence of the oil will make sure that any stray glue won't cure or stick to the rods.

[CNR5529]

Whoa, Nelly!   If you use the glue, don't try to put it on the pin or the rods!  Really, put it DOWN into the hole, where it
won't get on anything else like the rods.  A straight pin or the tip of a round toothpick with some glue on it will get it down in there quite safely.  It's not as bad as it sounds.  And if you have to do this, and you are really nervous, then after you put the pin in, put a little drop of oil on the juncture of those 3 rods.  Just the presence of the oil will make sure that any stray glue won't cure or stick to the rods.

LOL, thanks for the tips, I was just joking with the ... I've actually done this before on one of my own locomotives. Not to worry, this M1a is in good-ish hands... 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Honestly, steam engine linkage things are quite intimidating, so don't feel bad. It took me following a step by step picture disassembly guide for me not be absolutely terrified working with them.

If you guys think reassembly is bad, just wait till you see the feature on building your own in the upcoming Steam Annual.

[peteski]

If you guys think reassembly is bad, just wait till you see the feature on building your own in the upcoming Steam Annual.

Bring it on! The more complex the linkages are the more fun they are to disassemble and reassemble!  I love steam! 

[peteski]

Bring it on! The more complex the linkages are the more fun they are to disassemble and reassemble!  I love steam! 

DARN!  Can't edit threads!

[CNR5529]

The more complex the linkages are the more fun they are to disassemble and reassemble!

Agreed! I actually enjoy working on these.

As for the M1a, there are no signs of the crankpins moving after a week of on and off testing. One thing I have noticed though is the decoder in the tender is getting pretty warm. Is this normal with paragon sound decoders?

[Mike C]

Agreed! I actually enjoy working on these.

As for the M1a, there are no signs of the crankpins moving after a week of on and off testing. One thing I have noticed though is the decoder in the tender is getting pretty warm. Is this normal with paragon sound decoders?

I never noticed mine getting warm , but they did have other annoying bugs . 1 would cut the chuff sound out when going over a turnout  and the other would loose programing sometimes . Ended up sending them out to woodone for Tsunami 2 decoders . Much better now !