Weekend Update 10/29/17

[peteski]

Not just you.  I mentioned this issue when these were first released.

Jason

I know (there was a very lengthy thread about this), but many here (and the modeling community in general) seem to find that problem acceptable (buy the models and look the other way). But OTOH there are still many of those reefers still in-stock at the dealers. That might also be telling that it was more than just the selected few that found this "problem" unacceptable (unless they had a huge production run).

[wcfn100]

I will say that I don't think the car looks 'worse' as I had expressed concern about.  I do like it weathered vs. not weathered.  But it does really highlight the issues with the car.

The first thing that popped in my head when I saw the picture was I really need to adjust V-Hold on my TV.


Jason

[Scottl]

@mark dance, that station is spectacular.  It will be a centerpiece in Nelson!

[nkalanaga]

jgiovenni:  I can remember when BN trains looked like yours.  Where we lived was in the desert of eastern Washington, but there are many areas in the Cascades and western Washington that look much like your scenery.

The only change I would make is to renumber the pre-BN units, as they "patched" them very early, and very neatly.  No paint-outs for the BN, they took the old numbers, and usually the heralds, off, and applied standardized BN numbers.  But I can understand why many modelers don't do that, as it makes it hard to run the same models as pre-merger units, and removing th eheralds takes away some of the interest.  Most of mine still have the heralds, but with the new numbers.

[arbomambo]

Bruce, the way the dark weathering wash accumulated away from the bracing (on the top photo) looks kind of wonky (to use a technical term).
And of course the darkening of the extra wide and deep board gaps on the reefer exaggerates the look of boards separated by gaps one could stick their hand through. At least to me - others find this acceptable.

Disclaimer: this is meant simple as my own observation or constructive criticism as in "better modeling through peer pressure".

As far as the reefer goes, this is one of those pet peeves of mine I just can't live down. Such a promising model of a sorely needed model which ended up looking like it does. The darkening of the gaps just exaggerates the problem. Try this type of weathering on MTL wood reefer and you will see a drastic difference.  Actually, the top photo of the MTL car with horizontally-engraved boards shows that difference: the board gaps look much more believable, even with the darkening wash.  This critique is not directed at you Bruce, but at the manufacturer.

EDIT:  at the increased apparent distance (by me shrinking the photo sizes).  the reefer actually looks good. Must be the 6' rule. 

I posted that photo ESPECIALLY for you!...
of course, I love the car...and don't have the issues that you had with it; in fact, especially with the wash, the car looks REALLY good in a consist on the layout; even the 1' rule applies.
 here, the cars are posed to contrast with a ton of pristine OOB cars...I still have to add a little 'soot' to roofs and some 'earth' on the undercarriages/lower extremities...

[peteski]

I posted that photo ESPECIALLY for you!...
of course, I love the car...and don't have the issues that you had with it; in fact, especially with the wash, the car looks REALLY good in a consist on the layout; even the 1' rule applies.
 here, the cars are posed to contrast with a ton of pristine OOB cars...I still have to add a little 'soot' to roofs and some 'earth' on the undercarriages/lower extremities...

LOL - thanks Bruce!
I absolutely agree that with the "distance effect" of the above photo that car looks quite good!  But I like my models to look good from 3 or 6 feet, but also from 6".  We all have our different standards.  Even seeing the car from the distance where it looks acceptable (or even good), in the back of my mind I see the 6" away view.

[SP-Wolf]

My SD-9 project is moving along.

Gathered up the parts needed:





Ready for paint:


Thanks,
Wolf

[rickb773]

This week was “work on old engines week”. Since they have been so noisy I took apart (10) of my (12) old Atlas RS-3's (was collecting them still hoping I could find someone to do four Shapeways Baldwin PRSL AS-16 shells for me), oiled, greased, and wheel cleaned them. Unfortunately most are still noisy and one of the trucks fell apart on me. (I can see why Atlas recommends replacing the whole truck instead of trying to re-assemble them!).
 
I speed matched them for the Reading dual set (one will be renumbered; searching for a 3rd unit) and a triple set of PRR. I have three additional Pennsy's (which need to be renumbered), an EL (did run on PRSL during the Conrail era), a lightning striped NYC, an L&N unit (now with one truck), and an undecorated shell.
 
Six now have KD's on them and I have the pilot/coupler conversion units (expensive) to do 3 more.

In addition I did (2) Atlas FA-1s (waiting for a second pilot conversion), and (2) Atlas GP 7/9s. I also got an old Atlas RS-11 functioning again. It had been dead but now runs well with long hood forward. However it has a slight stutter running short hood forward (lights dim, so probably loosing electrical contact). I have run them all in after servicing, so the RS11 inconsistency puzzles me.

[up1950s]

I posted that photo ESPECIALLY for you!...
of course, I love the car...and don't have the issues that you had with it; in fact, especially with the wash, the car looks REALLY good in a consist on the layout; even the 1' rule applies.
 here, the cars are posed to contrast with a ton of pristine OOB cars...I still have to add a little 'soot' to roofs and some 'earth' on the undercarriages/lower extremities...

Excellent results .

[John]

Working on a new JMRI panel

[PiperguyUMD]

This week was “work on old engines week”. Since they have been so noisy I took apart (10) of my (12) old Atlas RS-3's (was collecting them still hoping I could find someone to do four Shapeways Baldwin PRSL AS-16 shells for me), oiled, greased, and wheel cleaned them. Unfortunately most are still noisy and one of the trucks fell apart on me. (I can see why Atlas recommends replacing the whole truck instead of trying to re-assemble them!).
 

Is this what you need?

[nickelplate759]

PiperGuy - it's what I want - to do NKP 321. I presume there are supposed to be insets (or maybe decals) for all the louvres ?

[PiperguyUMD]

PiperGuy - it's what I want - to do NKP 321. I presume there are supposed to be insets (or maybe decals) for all the louvres ?

I started this so long ago its hard for me to remember where I was in the project. I was planning on using archer transfers for the louvers and have been using a bronze mesh for grills so I do believe that those where insets designed for that mesh. Way back when I did the Baldwin AS-16 FUD was too flimsy to use that sill design and I had to go with a one piece design I wonder if FXD would be rigid enough work.

[peteski]

Way back when I did the Baldwin AS-16 FUD was too flimsy to use that sill design and I had to go with a one piece design I wonder if FXD would be rigid enough work.

FUD and FXD is the same material printed on the same machines. The only thing different is the print resolution.

[rickb773]

Is this what you need?

Yes but I do not posses painting or decaling skills nor the ability to trim the chassis.
So I need to find someone, preferrably interested in trading, to do the work.