Body mounts on Atlas wood reefers

[Tom L]

Has anyone body mounted couplers on Atlas wooden reefers? Any tips or tricks? I've got parts on the way, so I can't fiddle with them yet. They have that little notch on the ends, so I'm guessing that needs to be filled in for the couplers to sit level. I guess my first pass plan is to even up the ends, mount MT 1015s and either file the bolsters down and use the original trucks (with FVM wheels) or BLMA (now Atlas) trucks when they become avaliable again.

Tom L

[brokemoto]

I have  used 1023s or 1015s with shims.

[peteski]

I also like to use 1023 or 1025 (these are the same coupler) with a shim for my Atlas boxcar (or reefer) body-mount conversions. I like the low profile draft gear boxes of those couplers.

[nkalanaga]

Like the others, I'd go with the 1023/1025 couplers.  This is the kind of project they were designed for.  The 1015 was originally intended for locomotive pilots, where there was plenty of vertical space, the bulk would be hidden, and length was restricted.  The 1015s work fine on rolling stock, but the box looks clunky hanging under the ends.

[delamaize]

[Tom L]

LOL, that's me! I put 1015s on everything! Anyway, I have some 1025's stashed away that I forgot about and since I work nights, I stay up to 3:00 or 4:00 AM even on my nights off, so lets see what kind of damage I can do.

Thanks all!

Tom L

[Tom L]

Well, here's the results. I probably made it more complicated than needed but ...... I do like the lower profile of the 1025's and the lip on the top of the coupler box. Here are a couple of pics of the whole thing. The one issue I had was that the hole for the screw was right where the edge of the metal and plastic frame meet, so I filed back the metal a little. Also, there is not enough thickness on the plastic lip of the frame to give the screws enough bite, so I glued in a piece of .080x.080 plastic. Having the hole here snugs the back of the coupler box right up to the bolster and it then sits nice and flush with the car body. The next six or so should go pretty quick.
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Tom L

[peteski]

Looks good!  Much nicer than the chunky 1015s!  Considering that some modelers use glue (CA or Walthers Goo) to attach their couplers, the heavy styrene beam and 00-90 screws are way overkill, but I would also do something similar. We both like overkill!  That coupler is not ever going anywhere!

What is also interesting is that the width of those couplers is very close to the width of the center beam. Coincidence? Don't think so.  Kadee designed these just right.  I say Kadee because these predate Micro Trains Line buy couple of decades.

[nkalanaga]

As far as I know, the 1023/1025 couplers were KD's first N scale product, based on the similar HOn3 coupler.  The coupler in the truck-mounted versions is the same piece, put in a latching case. 

[Tom L]

[quote author=peteski link=topic=43050.msg546276#msg546276 date=1508699021
What is also interesting is that the width of those couplers is very close to the width of the center beam. Coincidence? Don't think so.  Kadee designed these just right.  I say Kadee because these predate Micro Trains Line buy couple of decades.
[/quote]

Yeah, I had that thought too, which is a nice effect even though you can't see it most of the time, but I'm one of those that will spend more time making things that will never be seen neat and tidy than  I should. My layout would have been complete years ago if I didn't worry about things no one will ever see but me!

Tom L.

[peteski]

Yeah, I had that thought too, which is a nice effect even though you can't see it most of the time, but I'm one of those that will spend more time making things that will never be seen neat and tidy than  I should. My layout would have been complete years ago if I didn't worry about things no one will ever see but me!

Tom L.

I have you beat in being minutia-oriented: I don't even have my own layout, and I probably won't start at this point of my life - it would take me too long to build it! But OTOH, fruits of my modeling efforts are spread on my friends' layouts.

[nscalbitz]

I have you beat in being minutia-oriented: I don't even have my own layout, and I probably won't start at this point of my life - it would take me too long to build it! But OTOH, fruits of my modeling efforts are spread on my friends' layouts.

But, umm, also doesn't such hyper-fidelity require 903/905 assembly just to look proportional on these 36/40' cars?
Just askin'? dave

[peteski]

But, umm, also doesn't such hyper-fidelity require 903/905 assembly just to look proportional on these 36/40' cars?
Just askin'? dave

I see what you are doing. 

Well, for hyper-fidelity you would use the MTL True Scale Coupler.    To me minutia and absolute scale fidelity are different things.  Maybe minutia is not the best word - fastidious and likes overkill might be better words.

[nkalanaga]

Yes, those older cars, 1920s and earlier, should have smaller couplers.  Most had the AAR Type D, instead of the "modern" type E or later.  Since the 903/905s will work fine with 1015s and 1025s, it wouldn't be hard to do.  On the other hand, the Z/Nn3 couplers are also more expensive, which could be a factor for those with a large roster.

[Tom L]

The coupler size doesn't bother me too much, as long as they are all the same and, as mentioned, I dont want to spend the $ on the z Scale ones. My plan, such as it is, is to convert everything over to body mounted, inexpensive MT N Scale couplers and then when (if?) they come out with a new coupler (or more functional True Scale coupler) that they kind of hinted at in one of the True Scale coupler threads, I will be able switch them out and most of the work will already be done.

Either way, what bothers me more is the metal trip pins. My next project will be to mount more realistic air hoses and clip off the metal pins, which I don't need because I manually uncouple. I'm thinking about seeing if I can buy extra's of the ones that come with the TS couplers and mount them on the coupler boxes in a similar way.

Tom L