Truck To Body Mount Couplers - Kato F7B

[peteski]

Is this the one? Or is it something different?

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Micro-Trains-N-1017-2-Pass-Car-Couplers-p/mtl-00102025.htm

Thanks,

Mark

That one is the new version of the coupler. It has less vertical play but I think the coupler box is a bit deeper.   The original ones used the MTL T-shank couplers.  I bought a set of the new ones - I don't know where I stashed them. 

EDIT:  I found the other version of that coupler.  Very short box.

[superchief]

Max the M/T conversion for the front was an #1159 but only worked for the nose on the "A" on the OLD and REV units, no need on the DCC ones. M/T calls for an #1128 for the truck pocket. I am with Bruce I use a short unimate or the old Kato #702 couplers they came out with years ago. even with the short shank there is still quite a gap. Gordon

[nkalanaga]

I also used the Unimates.  I do mix-and-match locomotives, but with DC, it has to be done by hand anyway, so dummy couplers aren't a problem.  As long as both ends of the consist have working couplers, the ones in the middle are going to stay together, one way or another!  Since I won't be running a single A unit on a train, or a B unit next to the train, the Unimates work just fine.

[atsf_arizona]

same here...
my priority is prototypical close coupling...
I'll sacrifice the body mounting to achieve close coupling; I prefer unimate (red caboose) short shanks on the 'B' ends of all of my cab units...Z scale couplers in the pilots.
If the body mount couplers could achieve close coupling, then I would be very interested, but, otherwise, I'll stick to the truck mounted unimates.
Respectfully,
Bruce

Like Randy and Bruce said,

On Kato F units, I've also used the short shank Unimates on truck-mount Kato F7 trucks for a long time. 
Provides near prototypical spacing, need to manually couple has always been OK with me.
http://www.pbase.com/atsf_arizona/kato_n_scale_unimate_install&page=all

Looking forward to seeing the inter-unit spacing with the body-mounts above.  Thx for sharing
the tutorial. 

[NorsemanJack]

One more request to see the final photos.  My concern is that these would wind up similar to the IM F units, where body mounted MT's lead to excessive space between units.  With the IM units, the easy fix is the old Red Caboose (now Fox Valley?) body mount dummies.

Question for the OP:  why do you want body mounted couplers on these units?

[ns737]

thank you for the pics and info. now I can repair the two f uints with broken truck coupler pockets. and get these two engine back in service.