Body Mount Couplers for Atlas Tank Cars

[bbussey]

Here was my solution. A mounting plate that screws into the tank body that allows for a 1015-style coupler box to be inset appropriately from the car end and not interfere with the outer axle after the bolster is modified to lower the car to an appropriate ride height (or after body-lowering trucks are swapped in). I could modify the design to incorporate a coupler box, which would fortify the integrity of the part. If you can wait a couple of days, I'll modify the part for trial.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WJ7QZ74WB

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[Ken Ford]

Bryan, that link is dead...

[Missaberoad]

These two cars continue to frustrate me.  Tonight I successfully installed #1027 couplers, only to discover that they foul the axles and the cars will not sit and roll correctly.  I tried #1023 and #1015 but they stick out from the car way to much.  I tried #905 and they look better, still sticking out a bit but I can live with it and they don't foul the axles.  i think that Full Throttle couplers are in my future at some point, but this will do for now.

Thanks to those who chimed in.

Tim

Tim,

You can trim quite a bit from the back of a 903/905 coupler box without effecting the operation. Not sure if that would help with these cars.

[bbussey]

Bryan, that link is dead...

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WJ7QZ74WB/atlas-11g-tank-coupler-adapter?optionId=63523547

[bbussey]

I just whipped up a modified design with a built-in 1015 coupler pocket, which is more fortified than the original version.  I will get a test shot to see if it is viable and advise.  I need these too, so this isn't a hardship to do.

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[nkalanaga]

Ryan:  I agree that the 903/905 will take a lot of trimming and still work, because some of my narrow gauge cars barely have any box left.

If these cars are designed for the 1027, then the holes are in the wrong place for either the 1015 or 1025.  Even worse, if done right, the mounting surface is too high, which means that, if the car is lowered, the 1027 will be too low, AND the others will stick out too far.  Most MT cars have this problem.

(Edited to say "1015 or 1025", instead of "1015 or 1015"  That didn't make much sense...)

[BCR 570]

I now have the cars on BLMA trucks with 905 couplers and all seems good except for the couplers sticking out a little bit.

Bryan:  Keep me informed of your progress as I would be interested.

Tim

[milw156]

Bryan:  Keep me informed of your progress as I would be interested.

Tim

+ 1

[cbroughton67]

I just whipped up a modified design with a built-in 1015 coupler pocket, which is more fortified than the original version.  I will get a test shot to see if it is viable and advise.  I need these too, so this isn't a hardship to do.

(Attachment Link)

I'd like to get in on that action if you decide to do any for the Atlas 33Kgal, 23.5Kgal, or 17.6Kgal tank cars. The coupler boxes seem to interfere with the outermost axle on the ones I've tried to convert. I'd love to hear  ideas if anyone has converted these to body-mounts.


Chris

[nkalanaga]

I converted the two Atlas modern tankers I have to body mounts, but don't know if you'd like the results.  I reused the Accumate couplers, and built my own box.  It's easy to do, and will work on mounting surfaces slightly below the 1015/1025 standard, if you use a thin piece for the top.  Mine is 0.015 x 3/16, my standard size for these.

Part of the problem with body mounting couplers is that the 1015 uses a VERY thick box.  I still prefer the 1015 whenever possible, simply because it leaves more axle clearance.  But for Atlas, and Athearn, cars, it's very simple to build a box for the existing coupler.  Mine are a styrene rectangle, top and bottom 0.015 x 3/16, sides 0.015 x 0.060, unless I need a shim on top, with a piece of 1/16 (0.060) rod for the pivot post.  Make a channel, with the top and two sides, drill the hole for the pivot 1/8 inch from the end, insert the coupler, and glue another piece of 0.015 x 3/16, also with a hole in it, to the bottom for a cover plate.  Glue the cover plate to the sides and the center post, carefully, then trim the post flush on both sides when everything is dry.  If you need an extended draft gear, the extra space behind the coupler can be filled with a piece 0.060 x 5/32 strip, for added strength.

If you want to be neat, paint the inside black before assembling.  Black permanent marker works very well, if applied before gluing anything together, and doesn't affect the plastic cement.

They work well, but if you really want MT couplers, these won't help.  It would be nice if MT made a 1015 box that was thinner, for freight cars, where there is limited vertical space.  There's no reason for it to be any thicker than the 1025 box, or mine.

[bbussey]

In other situations where the 1015 box was too thick, I would use the 2004 box. That's before Shapeways and the ability to self-design.

[cbroughton67]

@nkalanaga Thanks for the great suggestion! I took your method, used a short-cut in the form of using rectangular brass cut to length to form the coupler box, and continued with the assembly as you described. I now have body-mounted couplers on two types of modern tank cars! Thank you for the inspiration!


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[Cajonpassfan]

Very cool Chris! What's the dimensions of the brass tube you use?
Thanks, Otto

[Missaberoad]

Thanks for sharing that Chris! I think I'm going to adapt that for tru scale couplers...

[MK]

Thanks for those pictures!  Word a thousand words!    Now to do it to all my dozen or so ore cars.  I like it!