Keystone Details Discontinues the PRR 3768 Raymond Loewy designed streamlined K4

[peteski]

@peteski , I've no idea.

I wonder if these are printed on Alps MD printer . . .

[Lemosteam]

Testing a Dark Bronze paint (Alclad ALC-123 "Exhaust Manifold", suggested by @chicken45 ) and AR Kits decal test:

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[Lemosteam]

I have six more numbered K4 kits for sale, if anyone is interested.

[peteski]

Looks good John!  So the original loco was painted with a very dark warm-brown and slightly metallic paint?

[Chris333]

Any one else have painted Shapeways models that turn sparkly after about a year? Like it has metal flake. Wondering how to stop it.

[peteski]

Any one else have painted Shapeways models that turn sparkly after about a year? Like it has metal flake. Wondering how to stop it.

FUD/FXD?  Maybe they weren't rinsed thoroughly enough and some remaining wax is leaching out? Just guessing.  I wonder if the sparklies would disappear if you sprayed a layer of Dullcote over the model.

[Lemosteam]

Looks good John!  So the original loco was painted with a very dark warm-brown and slightly metallic paint?

Yes, there was a long debate about this but no color photo to prove, only a PRR blueprint stating "Dark Bronze" paint for the boiler and tender.  This document also confirmed the stainless steel stripes on the nose and down the side.

Facebook PRR groups have given the nod on the color I chose.  Otherwise it's standard DGLE ~ spring of 1938 when the locomotive was repainted to DGLE for the 1938 Worlds Fair.

[Lemosteam]

Any one else have painted Shapeways models that turn sparkly after about a year? Like it has metal flake. Wondering how to stop it.

@Chris333 , I have not experienced this with my horse car roof.  Do you have some pictures?  I am quite curious.

[Lemosteam]

FUD/FXD?  Maybe they weren't rinsed thoroughly enough and some remaining wax is leaching out? Just guessing.  I wonder if the sparklies would disappear if you sprayed a layer of Dullcote over the model.

I really want to experiment/investigate some kind of porosity sealer for this material.

Any ideas?  I wonder if that really thin CA (used for the steel ball gluing) could be used as a pre-soak.

[Chris333]

I'll try to get photos and start another thread. But it has happened more than once. Like little crystals form on the surface, but they don't wipe off.

[peteski]

I really want to experiment/investigate some kind of porosity sealer for this material.

Any ideas?  I wonder if that really thin CA (used for the steel ball gluing) could be used as a pre-soak.

Steel ball gluing?  Not sure if I want to know . . .   
I suspect that you just mean the water-thin CA available at the hobby shops. I do use that stuff quite a bit in my modeling.  Yeah, that sounds like something worth trying. But it might create a frosted surface as it sets (not smooth shiny surface).

Also when applied on large areas, it emits very strong irritating odor. Make sure to do this in a ventilated area with an active airflow over the part (to quickly remove the fumes). I usually have a table fan running slow speed few feet away from  my workbench with its airflow directed over the bench surface to evacuate the fumes.

[Lemosteam]

Steel ball gluing?  Not sure if I want to know . . .   
I suspect that you just mean the water-thin CA available at the hobby shops. I do use that stuff quite a bit in my modeling.  Yeah, that sounds like something worth trying. But it might create a frosted surface as it sets (not smooth shiny surface).

Also when applied on large areas, it emits very strong irritating odor. Make sure to do this in a ventilated area with an active airflow over the part (to quickly remove the fumes). I usually have a table fan running slow speed few feet away from  my workbench with its airflow directed over the bench surface to evacuate the fumes.

You recall the discussion about adding weight using the tiny balls tha you pour into a space and secure with the ultra thin ca. Not worried about ca frosting as I would do this prior to sanding the surface.  Hoping that the filler would also strengthen the material by filling in the pores as well.

Saw a YouTube video where the person diluted the ca with acetone and did a soak for the strong and flexible material (not FUD or FXD).

Wanting to try a drip/brush on scenario sans acetone, knowing what that can do to FUD.

[peteski]

You recall the discussion about adding weight using the tiny balls tha you pour into a space and secure with the ultra thin ca. Not worried about ca frosting as I would do this prior to sanding the surface.  Hoping that the filler would also strengthen the material by filling in the pores as well.

Saw a YouTube video where the person diluted the ca with acetone and did a soak for the strong and flexible material (not FUD or FXD).

Wanting to try a drip/brush on scenario sans acetone, knowing what that can do to FUD.

I suspected that it was the ballast  balls you were talking about. 

One possible issue with the water-thin CA is that it sets very fast. Maybe even fast enough to glue the brush to the surface where it is applied.  Regardless of how you apply it I'll be curious about the results.

[peteski]

John, congratulations on having your article about this model kit published in the Sept/Oct 2018 issue of N-Scale magazine!  Well done!

[Lemosteam]

Thanks Pete!