Author Topic: Found a source for Kumata plastic screws in N & Shoulder washers stuff  (Read 4173 times)

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dcutting

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Re: Found a source for Kumata plastic screws in N scale
« Reply #30 on: May 31, 2017, 04:26:56 PM »
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I'd wouldn't be FUD... the CLIP resin is in many ways stronger. See the first image here: http://www.cescalemodels.com/n-searchlight-signal-assembly
David Cutting

narrowminded

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Re: Found a source for Kumata plastic screws in N scale
« Reply #31 on: June 01, 2017, 12:17:39 AM »
+1
Here's what one looks like.

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And here's what 10 looks like.

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They're all good! 8)  Now to ship them.
Mark G.

u18b

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Re: Found a source for Kumata plastic screws in N scale
« Reply #32 on: June 01, 2017, 09:09:47 AM »
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Wow.

That is amazing.

Thanks.
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

narrowminded

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Re: Found a source for Kumata plastic screws in N scale
« Reply #33 on: June 01, 2017, 04:16:31 PM »
+3
They should be there Saturday.  PM'd a tracking number.

I realize that a lot of folks are familiar with the general idea of machining parts but not intricately, especially tiny stuff, so while I had those set up I made a quick video with the phone camera to show what running something like that looks like.  It's actually in two parts but I think they run one right after the other.  I think hope I make parts better than videos about parts. :|  At least I'm going with that story. :P

« Last Edit: June 01, 2017, 04:41:56 PM by narrowminded »
Mark G.

u18b

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Well, I got home and I had a package waiting for me from Narrowminded.

A set of ten shoulder washers as described above.
They look wonderful.




I went and got a Kumata brass locomotive- this is a chrome plated Hallmark E3/6A.  Almost all Kumata brass locomotives in N scale except about 3 or 4 use these insulating shoulder washers.   So this is a common part that fails.




Here is the insulated gearbox.   The frame is charged to the other truck.  So there is a clear acetate insulator between the gearbox and the frame.   And then-- since the gearbox screws go into the frame and are thus charged-- they have to be insulated.
Here is a pair of insulators that are in good condition.    This loco does not really need new ones.  But trust me-- if you have an old KMT loco, there's a good chance you know how bad these things have gotten over the 30 years the locos have been around.  It is common for them to be:  split, crushed, deformed, cracked, and/or melted.




In this shot, the shoulder washer on the left is stock.
The one on the right is the one Narrowminded made.    It is absolutely perfect.  In fact, it is better than the original.

Notice how very thick the bottom lip of the gearbox is-  as compared to the next shot.   This one is fat.  So the longer barrel we placed on the shoulder washer worked better than the original.




I then dug out another gearbox to the Trainmaster I melted in the paint curing oven ( :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:).

Notice the bottom edge of the gearbox is much thinner-- and the hole is a tiny bit narrower.
I had to force the screw and shoulder washer to get it into the hole.  This damaged the barrel a little bit. (I did this on purpose just to see what would happen).

So.... I don't think the size of the shoulder washer should be changed at all.   The size is good.   The solution, if the shoulder washer does not go in easily, is to simply get a little round file and open up the hole.   We're talking about 1 mil and about 8 seconds or less of work.

Now, also, the barrel length is a bit long for this loco.   But that's ok.  Once mounted in the gearbox, an Xacto knife would cut away any excess from the underside.




And here is a final shot comparing the two from the barrel end.
Notice that the one Narrowminded made just looks a bit tougher.

Also, this shot shows that the threads of the screw just barely bite into the Delryn- which is good.  It is just right.   If it cleared it totally, then we would loose a bit of wall thickness- which was something Narrowminded was worried about.




I wouldn't change a thing.

THANKS!!!!!!!!

I just can't brag enough on how perfect these are.

(I'm just glad I didn't totally goof the measurements.  :scared:)


Oh..... And I loved the video.   Thanks.



« Last Edit: June 06, 2017, 09:08:58 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

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Re: Found a source for Kumata plastic screws in N scale
« Reply #35 on: June 06, 2017, 09:11:21 PM »
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I'd wouldn't be FUD... the CLIP resin is in many ways stronger. See the first image here: http://www.cescalemodels.com/n-searchlight-signal-assembly

Hey David.
Having now established a working concept confirming the dimensions-  any chance you might add these to your line-up to sell them to others for repairs?
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

narrowminded

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.... Also, this shot shows that the threads of the screw just barely bite into the Delryn- which is good.  It is just right.   If it cleared it totally, then we would loose a bit of wall thickness- which was something Narrowminded was worried about.

I wouldn't change a thing.


I'm glad you got them and glad they will work for you. 8) 

In the future, if you'd like, we could open up that hole another few thousandths to the 1.4mm (.0551") dimension that is the screw size instead of the .0528"/ .053" dimension that was made.  I was pretty sure that was going to do what it did at that dimension but that it would also likely work, biting in as it did.  Afterall, it's a 1.4mm screw. ;) 

My concern with the wall thickness was when the original dimensions had the wall at .0015"  (one and one half thousandths or half the thickness of a sheet of paper). :o  Now that it is at .010" there would be no problem opening the I.D. up another few and it would also be possible to take another .001"/ .002" off the O.D. if that would help.  As long as the wall is about .005" or better it should run OK.  It's the sub paper thin that was a concern.  Also it would be no effort to change that hub length to make a long and a short version in a run.  It would just be a change in the one dial number, not a whole new setup. 

Let me know if you need more.  8) 
« Last Edit: June 07, 2017, 01:49:09 AM by narrowminded »
Mark G.

mmagliaro

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Awesome.  Really nice bushings, and I too really enjoyed the video.  Thanks!

trainstrainstrains

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I am new to this forum and as usual with forums that are new to me I have difficulty posting till I get the hang  of it.  A message warned me this thread is old and I should considered starting a new thread.  I will if I get no reply but since my interest is related to this thread I try here first.
 I also have seen the video. I have sent narrowminded a private message but it doesn't appear in my  sent messages  . So I try this way.
A member of nscale.net recommended I get in touch with narrowminded.
I send a link here to the relevant nscale.net thread.
Thanks.
http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?43040-Graham-Farish-No-1816-Dutches-of-Hamilton-and-No-1827-Prince-Palatine-DCCconversion