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Peteski: Thanks for starting a new topic - mine had drifted badly!And I like your comparisons. IF they ever print my color set, ink buildup shouldn't be a major problem, as I did the artwork so that there isn't any overlap. There should only be one color, and maybe a white undercoat, at any one place. Two colors touching occurs in only one portion, where two straight lines are in contact.Your results also match mine in resolution. I inch letters are almost readable if handrawn. I did a USRE map logo for one of my hopper decals, with 5-pixel high letters, and under a 10X magnifier, they are obviously "letters", not just blobs. But they aren't readable letters. I don't know what their resolution is, but my decals were created as 800-DPI bitmaps, then converted to PDFs. Their resolution isn't quite as good as my originals, so I suspect that 600 to 800 DPI is about their limit.I might yet try putting some rivet strips on a future sheet. 0.002 inches is 1/3 N scale inch. How thick is a prototype boxcar side rivet head?SandyEggoJake: Like you, I'm just glad to have a source for custom decals. If I can get the decal I need from Microscale, or another traditional printer, that's what I'll use. But for what I'm ordering, there is no other choice.I think they'll work fine on a tank car. The curve is both gentle and consistent, and the decals aren't rigid.
This would actually be great on clear acetate for window mullions due to its perceived height. That way all you would ever need is the outer window frame, cut the acetate around the mullions and plunk it into a recess on the back of the window frame.Do an upper and a lower overlay and you'd have a double hung style.