Baton Rouge Southern 3.0 - a Design discussion

[Philip H]

Why does the Y have to be Peco? What's wrong with the Atlas one?

I am currently in possession of the Peco one.

[SirTainly]

Woohoo, track on board and board on wall things are starting to take shape! I'm also grappling with layout heights at the moment so I'm following to steal good ideas!

[Philip H]

Woohoo, track on board and board on wall things are starting to take shape! I'm also grappling with layout heights at the moment so I'm following to steal good ideas!

Being 6'3" and working in the garage (and wanting to maintain reasonable ability to do woodworking) necessitates a higher layout.

[wm3798]

Oh dear.  Woodworking in the same room?  Are you going to order rolling stock lettered for the Sawdust Central?

Lee

[Philip H]

Oh dear.  Woodworking in the same room?  Are you going to order rolling stock lettered for the Sawdust Central?

Lee

I've actually been hard at work on dust collection. Biggest problem so far is temperature and humidity control.

[wm3798]

I don't think Ace Hardware offers anything to change the layout's location from the Gulf Coast of Mississippi.  Is there a window in the garage you can hang a portable AC unit?

L

[Philip H]

I don't think Ace Hardware offers anything to change the layout's location from the Gulf Coast of Mississippi.  Is there a window in the garage you can hang a portable AC unit?

L

Nope. But a sawzall, a step ladder and some beer can always create an a/c sized hole. In all seriousness there is A/c ducting in the attic above the garage that feeds the guest suite behind it so I'm talking to a couple of locals about a slightly bigger compressor and a t off the line to the garage.

[wm3798]

Make sure you can get a return air duct in too, or it will be an exercise in not working properly...  And you might want to invest in some insulation for the walls to keep the insides in and the outsides out...

L

[Philip H]

Make sure you can get a return air duct in too, or it will be an exercise in not working properly...  And you might want to invest in some insulation for the walls to keep the insides in and the outsides out...

L

Return air would be the easiest part - I can go through the wall under the layout to the adjoining bedroom.  The insulation in the exterior walls might be tough however - the outside facing garage wall has peg board hung on the inside that would have to come down at least temporarily.  Of course, if the A/C is not up to the added space . . . then its back to the Swazall option.

[wazzou]

You can always supplement with one of those Mitsubishi wall mount ductless units.  Provides both cooling and heat if necessary.

[Philip H]

You can always supplement with one of those Mitsubishi wall mount ductless units.  Provides both cooling and heat if necessary.

Long-term I think we will.  Just have to get other stuff done first.

Like building the layout.   

[milw12]

Nope. But a sawzall, a step ladder and some beer can always create an a/c sized hole. In all seriousness there is A/c ducting in the attic above the garage that feeds the guest suite behind it so I'm talking to a couple of locals about a slightly bigger compressor and a t off the line to the garage.

If I'm reading this right, you have a duct that you want to tap into to supply the garage? Be careful, that's in violation of building code, at least around here. If there's a fire or carbon monoxide issue in the garage (unlikely but can happen) there is now a convenient duct size access and distribution system into the main home. Even if you don't plan on parking cars, flammables etc in the garage, who knows what the next homeowner will do, if you can sell the house as modified.

I can quote you the actual code, but paraphrased if there is duct running in a garage connected to the home system it must be continuous and have no openings into the garage itself. I'm not familiar with Mississippi state building code, and Minnesota is not Mississippi, but please don't do this, it potentially endangers you and your family.

A wall mount portable is what I would recommend, even with the extra work of cutting a hole and weather proofing it.  Then you can go ductless later on if you choose, but I wouldn't see a reason to with a permanent wall mount.  It will be cheaper than resizing your outdoor condenser/ indoor evaporator coil (you'll need both if want to do it right) and avoid potential life-threatening hazards.

[davefoxx]

If I'm reading this right, you have a duct that you want to tap into to supply the garage? Be careful, that's in violation of building code, at least around here. If there's a fire or carbon monoxide issue in the garage (unlikely but can happen) there is now a convenient duct size access and distribution system into the main home. Even if you don't plan on parking cars, flammables etc in the garage, who knows what the next homeowner will do, if you can sell the house as modified.

I can quote you the actual code, but paraphrased if there is duct running in a garage connected to the home system it must be continuous and have no openings into the garage itself. I'm not familiar with Mississippi state building code, and Minnesota is not Mississippi, but please don't do this, it potentially endangers you and your family.

A wall mount portable is what I would recommend, even with the extra work of cutting a hole and weather proofing it.  Then you can go ductless later on if you choose, but I wouldn't see a reason to with a permanent wall mount.  It will be cheaper than resizing your outdoor condenser/ indoor evaporator coil (you'll need both if want to do it right) and avoid potential life-threatening hazards.

Yes, as has been discussed on TRW before, holes cut between the living spaces and the garage are not approved by Mike Holmes.

DFF

[wm3798]

If you full-on convert the space to bona fide living space, say a nice family room/train room motif, connecting the HVAC isn't an issue.  But you would have to abandon the garage use outright..  i.e. take out the door, replace it with a permanent wall etc.  Raising the floor inside is a nice touch too.

We did this to convert my sister's garage into an apartment for our mom.

https://www.houzz.com/projects/2593811/the-gramage-an-en-suite-conversion-from-an-existing-garage

Lee

[Philip H]

Permanent conversion is not in the cards yet.

Meanwhile . . .

I find myself in possession of a a lot of 3/4 inch BCX left over from making hurricane boards for my house windows.  Its 5 ply, but its not a nicely faced as the cabinet grade stuff everyone else uses.  being "frugal" I'm thinking about ripping it down to at least do the ends of the modules I'm going to use to build this version (if not the ends and sides). other then the need to sand a little more, does anyone see any issues? and if I go whole hog and get 1/4 inch fo rthe sides and stringers (in true FreeMoN style) do we think there will be problems mating the better grade 1/4 to the lower grade 3/4?