Weekend Update 12/11/16

[Kentuckian]

Thanks to my retired machinist father-in-law:

[wm3798]

Made a lot of progress on the layout over the last week or so, thanks in part to motivation from an old friend...



Lee

[DeltaBravo]

Hello All.  Been a long time since I last posted but finally got the bug again to start work on the layout. Last weekend I laid the remaining rock down for the river bed, and this weekend I was able to get it all painted using Liquitex Artist Acrylics.  I started with a 50/50 mix of Paynes Gray and Neutral Gray 5 to get a nice dark gray base coat.  I used a mix of Chromium Oxide Green, Burnt Umber and Raw Umber to give a look of depth in the center of the river.  I then worked my way to the outer edge using straight Chromium Oxide Green as well as a blend of Chromium Oxide Green and Titanium White for the shallow areas.

I went back over the rock in the shallower areas with Neutral Gray 5 to help them stand out and dry brushed CSX Tan for highlights.

I plan to use Magic Water mixed with possibly an olive green.  I'm hoping this combination will give me a similar look to most pictures I've seen of rivers in the Appalachian region I'm modeling.  Below are a few pictures of my progress this weekend.  Please let me know what you think and any suggestions you guys have.  As always, thanks for looking!!!

David

David, Your rock work is some of the best I have seen, and I love how you hid the unitrack, But I agree with others that the riverbed looks to green.

[Snark45]

Davidgray1974:

I personally think your plan to cover this riverbed with olive- or tan-tinted Magic Water will work just fine.

Many of the smaller river and stream bottoms here in the East develop a green algae coating as the summer wears on. This tint is just visible through the brownish water...

BTW  --  your work is superb, in my opinion.

Regards,  Harry

[VonRyan]

VanRyan, Clover House produces several PRSL dry transfer lettering in N.  They can be applied to either a decal sheet or rubbed on directly on the models themselves (which requires a clear coat to seal the lettering).  The link below should take you to the search results for PRSL...

http://cloverhouse.com/Store/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Pennsylvania+Reading+seashore+

Dry transfers, now there's something I can actually do! Means I can do the lettering myself rather than get someone to do the decal work. So I'll only need to have someone paint it.

[jgiovenni]

Hi to all,

here a short BN local at Joba Pass, somewhere in the Pacific Northwest.

Ciao.

Giovanni
www.plasticando.com

[Santa Fe Guy]

  Over the past few months I have been building a 15 stall N Scale Walthers roundhouse for a good friend (the one who purchased my SFRSD). It is so big I am making it it two sections for ease of transport to his house.
I have painted the interior of the window frames the same colour as the external colour and painted and weathered all the interior walls and roof trusses.
  The base has been scribed to mark concrete forming lines with cracks scribed in to a good many areas. This was then sprayed with Tamiya Grey surface primer then flat grey. Once dry I loosely brushed on and moved around with my finger Golden Titan Buff to make it look a bit more like aged concrete. Lots of time then spent applying very small amounts of Tamiya Panel line paint to the form lines and cracks.
  I started assembly four days ago and so far so good I think.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Rod.

[Cajonpassfan]

Rod, that's wonderful, and even more wonderful to have a friend like you.
Come to think of it, I'll be needing a roundhouse for SanBdno soon, and it's a much smaller footprint (but 35 stalls)
Otto

[PiperguyUMD]

Back to the paint shop with you.  WM hoppers were black in the 20s and 30s, but before the round Herald was introduced.   The Micro Trains car done in the 80s is wrong.  You need oxide red.

Lee

But but but... I have pictures!  Or where they just that dirty?  Crap, those decals are hard to come by!

[wm3798]

My gal pal suggests getting a spray bomb of oxide red primer and "reverse weathering" it.  Hit it with a few light Dustings of Red.  You'll be fine.

[up1950s]

My gal pal suggests getting a spray bomb of oxide red primer and "reverse weathering" it.  Hit it with a few light Dustings of Red.  You'll be fine.

Or get some red sunglasses , and a red filter for your camera  , both can be hand made . Or maybe some red chalk .

[davidgray1974]

Thanks everyone for the great comments and suggestions!  Really great to be back and modeling again.

@Dave Vollmer - Thanks Dave!  I have to say the rock work you are doing on the Colorado Midland looks outstanding!  Really Top Notch modeling you're doing there.  By the way, really glad you are doing well.  Praying for a speedy recovery. 

@Snark45 - The sunlight highlighting the green algae below the surface is exactly what I was trying to model, so thank you for confirming this.     I do see what everyone else is saying though, since a majority of the pictures that I've found on line depict more of a more murky color.  I think I will have to do test samples of both to make sure I get it right. 

Again, I really appreciate everyones input.  You guys are awesome!

David

[Hiroe]

https://goo.gl/photos/5bNoFBBhmyRfXHTw6



Who remembers these?

(edit for link)

[Santa Fe Guy]

Thanks Otto let me think about that for a second LOL.
Regards Rod.

[Cajonpassfan]

Lol Rod, your second is up and the answer is "in your dreams"

Occasionally when I need a break from my layout and N scale, I build something fun in another scale for friends.
Here's another packing house, this one loosely based on one of the ones in Upland, California on the old ATSF Second District.

In HO, it is huge. But that's one of the many advantages of our scale, we can actually model large buildings.
Best, Otto K.