Filling FUD (or FXD)

[nickelplate759]

I have a couple of Shapeways printed shells (in FXD) that need some modification.
Since I'm not the designer I can't just modify the design and reprint (not that I know how....)

In one case it's an extra headlight I want to remove, in another it's some handrail holes that I want to remove.
What's a good filler that can be sanded?  Would Squadron or Testors styrene putty work?

Regards,
George

[peteski]

I avoid putties like a plague!  Especially the solvent-based ones which shrink when they dry. I hate them!  But I love CA glue. If I had to fill something in a FUD-printed body, I would use a CV glue and accelerator (specifically BSI-brand accelerator as it is not very aggressive).  Then I make sure I file or smooth the hardened CA glue within few hours of application (as it gets harder as the time passes).  Just make sure that all the wax is removed from the FUD-printed part first.

[nscaleSPF2]

I've used Bondo in the past, with excellent results.  Doesn't shrink very much and is easy to sand.  Apply with a toothpick.  The fumes are toxic, but you won't need to use very much.  I didn't expect it to work as well as it does.

[wazzou]

I second the Bondo recommendation.  Use the tube of Spot Filler by Bondo. 
It should be available at large discount retailers with an automotive section.

[peteski]

I second the Bondo recommendation.  Use the tube of Spot Filler by Bondo. 
It should be available at large discount retailers with an automotive section.

If it is the solvent-based stuff, I stay away. If it is the 2-part stuff, it is non-shrinking and should work well.   

[wazzou]

I've never noticed it shrinking the way I have when I used to use the Squadron stuff. 
I'm not saying that it doesn't shrink but I have found the amount it does to be pretty imperceptible and not had the need to re-apply like I often did when using Squadron.

[peteski]

I've never noticed it shrinking the way I have when I used to use the Squadron stuff. 
I'm not saying that it doesn't shrink but I have found the amount it does to be pretty imperceptible and not had the need to re-apply like I often did when using Squadron.

I'm sure it works fine. Especially if it is used for a very small area (like a hole for a handrail or if applied in a thin layer). It is just a personal preference.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Milliput is a great filler as well. It is an epoxy/clay compound that can be softened with water. It is a bit harder than styrene when dry, so care must be taken when sanding. I found it to be a great filler for FUD, which is also hard.

[Mark W]

Just last week I used the Green Putty on a few of my 3D printed Anhydrous Ammonia trailers.  The hole was about the size of a pin head and the putty worked perfectly. 

[Spades]

http://3mcollision.com/products/fillers-and-glaze/putty/3m-acryl-red-glazing-putty-05098.html
I used this with FXD/FUR (Some fine parts by Wutter). If your filling a  hole place tape over the hole on the outside of the shell.  Fill from the inside of the shell.  You will have a smooth neatly filled hole with a minimum of sanding.

G

[nickelplate759]

On a related topic - on the recommendation of several folks here I bought some Mr. Surfacer 1000 to help finish my shells.  Unfortunately, the directions are entirely in Japanese, and that's not a language I can even pretend to read.  Any suggestions on how to use it would be appreciated.

Regards,
George

[Chris333]

Maybe something here:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

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[wazzou]

I have the 500, 1000 and 1200 and the stuff is all fantastic but mostly for smaller scratches and blemishes. 
The 500 is pretty thick, 1200 is thin and 1000 in between. 
I would definitely recommend all three and also a very well ventilated area to apply. 
This stuff is mind blowingingley pungent.
I got mine from an online model store in NY.  I'll have to look up the name if anyone is interested.

[craigolio1]

I use the Bondo spot putty in the tube as well. I found its use on hand made resin models particularly nice. On some smooth side passenger cars I did I smoothed a thin layer over the entire side of the car. I then sanded the whole side and it revealed tiny popped bubbles and even a very fine finger print. When painted the side was smooth and shiny.

I bought some Shapeways passenger cars which also had smooth sides and the material felt almost fuzzy to the touch. I can't remember but I think the material was one of the strong flexible ones. Anyway I smoothed the sides with the Bondo and now it's a nice flat surface.

I understand that in both these applications the cars had no rivet detail but in both cases shrinkage and cracking was not a problem at all.

Now, it is a very soft putty. On a kitbashed loco I made, I messed up the paint and stripped it with my Badger sandblaster. It removed the Bondo as well. Knowing what I do now, after that experience, I will use the Bondo for small holes and such but in cases where I'm joining panels and want to smooth a long joint I'll be using something harder.

Craig

[bbussey]

I have the 500, 1000 and 1200 and the stuff is all fantastic but mostly for smaller scratches and blemishes. 
The 500 is pretty thick, 1200 is thin and 1000 in between. 
I would definitely recommend all three and also a very well ventilated area to apply. 
This stuff is mind blowingingley pungent.
I got mine from an online model store in NY.  I'll have to look up the name if anyone is interested.

It's available on Amazon as well. I use it in the spray booth, which solves the fumes problem.