On30 ET&WNC R.R.

[SSW7771]

Sweet!

[lajmdlr]

I dunno, combine N scale and O scale and you have "no" scale or would that be "ON" scale?

Wouldn't the combination of N & O scales be HO? >)

[davefoxx]

...until late 1936/early 1937 when the D&RGW refitted coaches and parlor cars for use in its Shavano (Salida to Montrose) and its San Juan Express (Alamosa to Durango) trains with closed vestibules.   

Ding, ding, ding!  Yep, you got it.

[davefoxx]

Still, I like the heft of On30 and if you've got the room, do it!

1) You're not kidding about the heft.  Granted, I've been working in N scale for more than a dozen years, but these On30 locomotives are heavy!

2) I'm temporarily running on HO Kato Unitrack with 16-7/8" radius curves.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that the locomotives and passenger cars I bought run reliably on this sharp of a curve, which is tighter than many HO guys run.  In other words, I can build an O scale layout with a track plan that takes up not much more room than an HO plan.  Nice!

DFF

[Scottl]

That is true, the trackage is nominally the same, but the buildings and scenery take a lot more room than HO.

[davefoxx]

That is true, the trackage is nominally the same, but the buildings and scenery take a lot more room than HO.

That's okay with me; I don't like constructing buildings or scenery.   

DFF

[Scottl]

Then your your layout is already done! 

[Dave V]

I was at Caboose this morning and had a chance to view the Peco On30 next to the Micro Engineering On30.  Normally I'm a Peco turnout fan but in On30 I think the Micro Engineering wins appearance-wise hands-down.  The Peco ties look stubby...it almost looks like HO standard gauge track with every other tie removed.  I found this strange considering that in HOn3, the Peco track matches the ME track in tie size and spacing.

[davefoxx]

As you may recall, I promised myself that I would not start a layout until I finished off the layout room.  I will say that the room will be broken up, so I may relax that rule by finishing a portion, so that at least one of my layouts can get started.  Another concern will be that to build the N scale layout will require moving the water heater, which will likely require replacement or going to a tankless system, which will be hard on the hobby budget.  So, I figure that if I start at the end of the room where the On30 layout will go, I can avoid that plumbing expense for now.

But, I'll ask for some suggestions.  First, is this corner where I'd like to have the On30 layout.  My thought is to frame out a closet, leaving access to the water meter and the cleanout on the sewer line.  The problem is that this will be a large blockade to where I'd like to go with the On30 layout.  Perhaps a dutch door and the layout blocks the upper half?  Perhaps frame an opening, but drywall the top half, leaving the bottom half open under the layout, in case I need access?  Of course, when I sell the house, the drywall could be cut out and the opening would be left for a door, if desired.



Then there's this dilemma: the sewer line.  At it's farthest it projects about 7" into the room.  If I frame a wall in front of it, I will lose close to a foot of room width, keeping in mind that dimension is probably less than 12' now, which would crunch the room down to eleven feet or less in width.  I could try to frame out a soffit, but that might look bad, especially for future uses of the room.  It would also be lower than 5'9" off of the deck, which could become a headbanger.  Keeping in mind that I would never want to see a nail or screw driven into the sewer pipe, I could try notching the stud wall, so that I could save a few inches.  Thoughts?



Thanks any input,
DFF

[davefoxx]

I was at Caboose this morning and had a chance to view the Peco On30 next to the Micro Engineering On30.  Normally I'm a Peco turnout fan but in On30 I think the Micro Engineering wins appearance-wise hands-down.  The Peco ties look stubby...it almost looks like HO standard gauge track with every other tie removed.  I found this strange considering that in HOn3, the Peco track matches the ME track in tie size and spacing.

I bought six pieces of ME Code 83 On30 flex last year, and it's good enough looking that I won't even consider handlaying my track (except maybe turnouts).  Hopefully, it won't be a bear to work with, though.  I was eyeing up some ME Code 83 #5 turnouts online just last night, so I can play around with some parts for trackplanning.  I found one or two merchants selling the ME turnouts for about $20.00, so I figure that I could probably buy most of the turnouts that I need at not much more expense than purchasing all of the necessary tools and jigs to build them by hand.  So, I may just go completely ME track on this layout.

DFF

[Chris333]

I would stud out the wall with the pipe so the backdrop is flush with the pipe. Then curve the backdrop in the corner. I assume you want the layout as high as the door layout. You should still be able to get to the water shut off, the meter for sure. It would all be hidden under the layout.

[pdx1955]

As you may recall, I promised myself that I would not start a layout until I finished off the layout room.  I will say that the room will be broken up, so I may relax that rule by finishing a portion, so that at least one of my layouts can get started.  Another concern will be that to build the N scale layout will require moving the water heater, which will likely require replacement or going to a tankless system, which will be hard on the hobby budget.  So, I figure that if I start at the end of the room where the On30 layout will go, I can avoid that plumbing expense for now.

But, I'll ask for some suggestions.  First, is this corner where I'd like to have the On30 layout.  My thought is to frame out a closet, leaving access to the water meter and the cleanout on the sewer line.  The problem is that this will be a large blockade to where I'd like to go with the On30 layout.  Perhaps a dutch door and the layout blocks the upper half?  Perhaps frame an opening, but drywall the top half, leaving the bottom half open under the layout, in case I need access?  Of course, when I sell the house, the drywall could be cut out and the opening would be left for a door, if desired.

Then there's this dilemma: the sewer line.  At it's farthest it projects about 7" into the room.  If I frame a wall in front of it, I will lose close to a foot of room width, keeping in mind that dimension is probably less than 12' now, which would crunch the room down to eleven feet or less in width.  I could try to frame out a soffit, but that might look bad, especially for future uses of the room.  It would also be lower than 5'9" off of the deck, which could become a headbanger.  Keeping in mind that I would never want to see a nail or screw driven into the sewer pipe, I could try notching the stud wall, so that I could save a few inches.  Thoughts?

Thanks any input,
DFF

What's your idea of "finishing?" Something like drywall-finished walls and ceiling or with a suspended system to reasonably match other parts of the house or are you making it look not so stark (you'll still going to know you're in a basement)? Your ceiling looks sort of low, and trying to frame a soffit or box for that beam will leave a potential clearance issue (this may be one of those places for a "theatrical-style black paint job on the joists, beam, etc and make things "disappear").

Some would say move the sewer line between the joists but that is expensive and I can see that you have other stuff in the way to get over the steel beam. For the best look, a framed out wall in front with maybe some slight notches (don't want to introduce too much weakness) . For your your cleanout , I think framing out an space is best, but instead of a closet you could just put a access door/hatch in and that would preserve access, require no modifications if you move, and limit the footprint. Alternatively, where the pipe is you could just paint everything a common color or partially frame the layout area with furring strips up to the pipe to support a backdrop (this is where the degree of finish comes in). You could always have the backdrop attached to the layout itself to more of less block the pipe view if you just painted the wall. Maybe the layout area is in more of a mechanical space (as you mentioned moving the WH to fit the N layout) so its more of paint and basic treatments and you finish the rest of the basement off more as living space.

[Chris333]

Pardon the scribble.

You could screw hardboard right to the studs and let the curve float around the bend. If you want to get fancy, drywall the bottom half.

[davefoxx]

I would stud out the wall with the pipe so the backdrop is flush with the pipe. Then curve the backdrop in the corner. I assume you want the layout as high as the door layout. You should still be able to get to the water shut off, the meter for sure. It would all be hidden under the layout.

Chris,

Your idea is interesting.  It allows for coved corners, and I save on studs and drywall.  Hmm.  I could still drywall the areas of the room that are exposed.  I'm not sure how I would install the suspended ceiling, though.  I need to think about this.

DFF

[Chris333]

Put the ceiling in first. Attach the metal L pieces direct to the studs. Then 4x8 hardboard up against the metal grid. Fill in the lower area with drywall.

You can also screw into the studs like a big shelf bracket to support the layout.