Airbrush woes

[mmagliaro]

The Tru-Color website does in fact say that they recommend 28 PSI to spray their paint, and to use their thinner (they don't say anything about acetone).

With regard to the OP's questions... I have used those Archer rivet decals a lot, and sadly, I don't think you are going to be able to save them.  Just about anything you put on there to take that paint off is going to soften, mush, move, or otherwise ruin them.
Even if some survive here and there, it will be more work trying to fit in new lines of rivets between the old ones.  I'd say if you can find a way to safetly get the paint off without ruining the casting, don't worry about the rivets.  Strip them off with the paint and chalk it up to lessons learned.

[peteski]

The Tru-Color website does in fact say that they recommend 28 PSI to spray their paint, and to use their thinner (they don't say anything about acetone).

We know that airbrushing methods are very variable from person to person.  There might be some specific combination of the airbrush nozzle size and opening, and also the viscosity of the thinner paint along with some specific distance from the model where 28 PSI will work, but I think it is a very personal choice. Then you also have to add the ambient temperature and humidity to the mix.  I think that just a blanket recommendation of using 28 PSI (without specifying at least some of the other variables involved in airbrushing) in not very wise of them.

[coosvalley]

I've been using Lacquer Thinner to thin Accu-paint, and now Tru-color, with great results since the 80's.Thin it to a milk-like consistency....I had exactly the same results as the OP with Acetone, so I'd bet it was that....I also don't paint during periods of high humidity....

[Wutter]

Tru-Color may recommend 28 PSI, but honestly based on my experience with it, that is pretty high for a paint that doesn't have huge pigments (like Vallejo for example).

I do cut my Tru-Color maybe 10-15% with acetone during my spray session but I only spray it somewhere between 15 and 20 PSI. I also like to spray within 8 inches to my models and lay it on wet (but not so wet that it drips and runs), same as peteski said earlier. The only difference is that my main airbrush is a Iwata HP-CS dual action as I like to be able to control my paint volume when I'm painting in tight areas that can easily develop runs.

[PiperguyUMD]

Here's the salvage shot of the hopper.  I did some light wet sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper and re sprayed with no thinner, and 20 psi.  This time blobs of paint speckled the surface.  I've put a lot of work into the detailing of this hopper so it is what it is.  On my railroad these would have been in this paint scheme for 15+ years, so I'll just weather the crap out of it.




Still not sure how to approach the CNJ 1000.  Lots of time on the detailing.

[peteski]

I would say to buy a package of cheap plastic (styrene) spoons and practice your airbrushing technique on those. That is how I practice my technique and various new paint mixes.

[C855B]

FWIW... using Tru-Color, I've been painting all week on some scrap shells with no trouble. Humidity in the workshop is not well-controlled, probably between 60-75%, but not too humid, I guess. Airbrush is a Harder & Steenbeck Colani with a 0.8mm orifice @ ~30psi. This is a gravity-feed brush. No thinning. Cleaning brush thoroughly with acetone after every color.

I am very happy with the results - glossy, even, no filling-in of details. It's too bad they're scrap shells, actually - FUD and FXD with too many surface defects - but the paint job sure is nice.

I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that 20psi is too low. The blob/speckle behavior is what I get with my HVLP spray gun setup if I run too low a pressure. I started out of the gate with the Colani at 30psi and cannot fault the results.

[garethashenden]

I haven't been airbrushing for as long as a lot of you, but here's what I've had success with. I'm using an Iwata Neo airbrush and a Neo Air compressor. Because this compressor puts out a maximum of 15psi I've been thinning the paint 1:1 with Tru-Color's thinner. This has worked very well for me, nice thin smooth coats of paint that dry pretty quickly once they're on the model, but not before. The paint layers are so thin you can still see all the solder lumps I should have cleaned up first. 

[peteski]

Each additional post shows more and more that there is no one specific combination of all the factors to successfully spray any paint through any airbrush.  There many different combinations of airbrush brands, nozzle sizes and how far they are open, air pressures, paint dilution, and ambient temp and humidity which will yield successful results. And just as many combinations which will be failures.

This really is something which each individual needs to practice and experiment for themselves. We can only provide hints and settings which  work for each of us.

[UP4-8-8-4]

I've got every brand train paints in my cabinet.
Since they came out with Tru-Color Paints, all the other brands set.
One thing I noticed, Tru-Color is way too thick bottled as it comes.
Every one of mine I filled to the top with acetone and shook well.

I spray at 35psi and put the paint coats on thin.
I've had no problems with a rough finish, only a smooth one.

Duel action air brushes I use is the Iwata Eclipse, Paasche VL-3, Metalflake and Centrail Pneumatic.
I use the Paasche VL-3 the most for painting full shells.

Don't try washing off the paint with acetone, will melt the plastic.
Try auto brake fluid, or as wee have used before, oven cleaner.

[coosvalley]

Don't try washing off the paint with acetone, will melt the plastic.
Try auto brake fluid, or as wee have used before, oven cleaner.

Auto brake fluid makes plastic models brittle, I would never uses it on an N scale model!!!.....And why uses harsh chemicals when 91% rubbing alcohol will remove Tru-color with ease?

[UP4-8-8-4]

Auto brake fluid makes plastic models brittle, I would never uses it on an N scale model!!!.....And why uses harsh chemicals when 91% rubbing alcohol will remove Tru-color with ease?

Anytime I have used brake fluid I've never let it sit very long or it will brittle the plastic.

Good advise to know 91% rubbing alcohol will work with ease.

[ns737]

I take all my true color paint out of the plastic bottles and put it in glass bottles. the plastic lets the paint evaporate.

[Spades]

I have had result as shown.  It is usually do to hasty prep.  Was the the model clean and free of surface contaminants?  The paint thoroughly mixed?

   

[coosvalley]

Anytime I have used brake fluid I've never let it sit very long or it will brittle the plastic.

Good advise to know 91% rubbing alcohol will work with ease.

It works great on Accu-paint and Tru-color....I always try alcohol first, then move to stronger paint strippers if need be..I had brake fluid basically destroy a Kato F7 shell, so I won't use it for Nscale, though it works well ......

I take all my true color paint out of the plastic bottles and put it in glass bottles. the plastic lets the paint evaporate.

My paint doesn't evaporate???.., but the thinner does !!    ....I have old, evaporated bottles of Accu-paint, add laccquer thinner and presto, good paint again.....

Also, I don't ever look at my pressure gauge, I just adjust it till it "feels" right, but I'd bet I spray at about 20psi......I find that AP/TC paint likes to be thinned a lot as well...YMMV