What Is a Good Resistance Soldering Unit?

[Kisatchie]

I'm trying to decide if I really need a resistance soldering unit. Or would a Weller soldering station be more in line with what I need?

I'm figuring I'll need to solder power feeds to N scale Kato Unitrack, and I sure don't want to melt the plastic roadbed. Resistance soldering seems perfect for that.

Can anyone recommend a good brand? I see Micro-Mark has them in stock for $169.95, kind of steep for the limited use it would probably get.

Thanks for any ideas.


Hmm... I expect the first
thing Kiz will solder is
his finger to the rail...

[Mike C]

As long as you clean the track , tin the area and the wire , and use a clean hot iron , it solders quickly . I haven't melted a tie lately . The joint should solder quickly .  Using flux won't hurt either . I use solder with flux , but the extra won't hurt .

[peteski]

As long as you clean the track , tin the area and the wire , and use a clean and tinned hot iron tip , it solders quickly . I haven't melted a tie lately . The joint should solder quickly .  Using flux won't hurt either . I use solder with flux , but the extra won't hurt .

Those words are gospel for anybody who wants to be good at soldering.

[AVR Mark]

Resistance soldering units are very expensive, but work very well for their intended purpose. The only brand that I have used is American Beauty. I would not hesitate to recommend an American Beauty product, if that company is still in business. It has been a long time (25 + years) since I have used a resistance soldering unit.

Mark

[Kisatchie]

Thanks for the replies. I'll go with a Weller soldering station...


Hmm... Kiz is cheap...

[mark.hinds]

I use American Beauty, but the Weller should work fine.  As added insurance against melting ties, you can pre-tin the bottom of the rail where you plan to solder the feeder (at the workbench), and likewise pre-tin the feeder.  Then just melt them together.  I sometimes also use small clip-on heat sinks and/or wet paper towels on sensitive areas. 

Mark H. 

[R L Smith]

Kiz, why do you feel you need to solder feeders to Kato Unitrak?  Just use their pre-wired joiners. 

My layout has about 40 feet of double-track Kato track, and I used their joiners about every 6 feet or so.  After 4 years of operation, I've found only one section of track that could benefit by an additional feeder.

The portions of my layout that uses Atlas C55 use a combination of soldered rails and Atlas' C55 terminal joiners, dropped every 3-4 feet or so (closer spacing than the Kato, because I used the Atlas for the switching areas and have a lot of turnouts.)

Note, if you buy your Kato track used, splurge on brand new joiners. They make a small plastic tool that makes it easy to remove the rail joiners without damaging them.

Edit 3/1: corrected two typos, but mostly to clarify that I'm suggesting for used Kato track, all the track joiners should be replaced with new ones as you have no way of knowing how many times the track sections were put together and taken apart. Use the original joiners as you are getting your final configuration planned out, but when you are ready to commit the track to the benchwork for the last time, put new joiners in.

Ron

[Kisatchie]

Kiz, why do you feel you need to solder feeders to Kato Unitrak?  Just use their pre-wired joiners. 

I plan to use the Kato pre-wired joiners, but I just wanted to be prepared for soldering connections if necessary.

You've given me a lot of encouragement, though, since your Kato joiners seem to be doing the job. Thanks!


Hmm... just saved Kiz a
trip to the hospital...

[Mastertech]

resistance soldering is best and mainly used if your working with brass models, I built a On3 kemtron shay and the thing was awesome for soldering the pipes and everything else, but as far as your track, the rail joiner feeders are the best. If you really want to solder try this unit . I bought this for soldering smd LEDs and the adjustment on it is awesome you just have to get some low fusing solder and your all set. also go for the extra tip set, but do your shopping cause some of them could get pricy.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Aoyue-469-Variable-Power-60-Watt-Soldering-Station-with-Removable-Tip-Design-/291493602454?hash=item43de5f6496
tips
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Aoyue%2FHakko+Set+of+Soldering+Iron+Tip+-+Conical&_id=111055832210&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

JOHN

[mmagliaro]

As long as you clean the track , tin the area and the wire , and use a clean hot iron , it solders quickly . I haven't melted a tie lately . The joint should solder quickly .  Using flux won't hurt either . I use solder with flux , but the extra won't hurt .

Those words are gospel for anybody who wants to be good at soldering.

+1 on that!  And one more thing... use a THIN solder.  Look for .022" diameter (or less).  It will heat up, melt, and flow much more easily.  And curmudgeon that I am, I avoid lead-free solder.  I have some on my workbench, and I hate it.
It is harder to get the tip to stay tinned, and it causes the tip to oxidize much more rapidly than solders with lead in them.
(okay... that's TWO more things  )

[peteski]

While it is nice to have, I would say that resistance soldering equipment is a bit of an overkill for your needs.  Plus you need to learn totally different soldering technique than what you do with conventional soldering iron.

My recommendation would be to go with a conventional iron. You can get a nice adjustable-temperature (a feature I would recommend) soldering station for a fraction of a cost of resistance soldering unit.  The important thing to remember is to get a brand name unit which has easily replaceable tips (and supports a variety of different size and shape tips).

Max is also correct on the new lead-free solders. Those are very difficult to use and to get clean solder joints.  Best and easiest solder to use is a 60/40 tin/lead alloy.  Very easy to work with.

[Mike C]

I plan to use the Kato pre-wired joiners, but I just wanted to be prepared for soldering connections if necessary.

You've given me a lot of encouragement, though, since your Kato joiners seem to be doing the job. Thanks!


Hmm... just saved Kiz a
trip to the hospital...

You can make your own and save a bunch of money . I think the how too is on Mike Fifer's site .

[robert3985]

If you haven't used a resistance soldering station before, you really don't know how superior it is to either a torch or an iron in almost every aspect.  Yup, you can solder with a blowtorch if you want to, but even a quality Weller soldering station or a precision oxy acetylene jeweler's torch such as the "Mini Torch" will not equal a resistance soldering station such as the American Beauty 250W unit with the correct hand pieces. 

So...if you can afford one, get it.  Simple...and make sure the "tweezer" hand piece and "probe" are included with extra tips for both of 'em.  I used mine for every under-the-railfoot 22AWG feeder (hundreds of feeders) I installed when I re-wired my layout for DCC five years ago.  I simply could not have done this job without it...especially since the track was already laid, and also ballasted in several areas.  I also use it for most of my solder joints on my brass models, doing such things as soldering grabs directly to the brass surface (without drilling holes), which would be nearly impossible with either a torch or iron.

However, a quality, temperature controlled iron also has its home, and that's for soldering solid-state components quickly without cooking them. I also use mine for soldering wires to toggle switch contacts and to my Tortoises.

For trackwork and building metal models...either etched kits, my own constructions or modifying/repairing brass models...I use my American Beauty 250W resistance soldering station.

Those who haven't used one do not realize what an advantage it is to be able to hold, solder, and continue to hold while the solder hardens...all without moving anything except your foot on and off the foot switch.  Of course, the main unit allows you to drastically modify the amount of current coursing through either the tweezers or the end of the probe so you don't melt any adjacent plastics.

I also disagree with both Peteski and Max about lead-free solder.  I use 96/4 Tin/Silver .031" solder exclusively for structures and feeders and I don't have ANY PROBLEMS with it...none, either with my iron or with my resistance soldering station. As a bonus, it is also forms significantly stronger joints than lead solder.

If I need a fine bit of solder for a precise application, I simply squash the end of the solder with my flat-nose pliers, and slit it down the middle with a sharp X-acto knife.  If I don't need such a fine bit, I just use the squashed 1/4" bit I've created on the end of the round solder.  For soldering my feeders and constructing my hand-build turnouts, I just use the .031" solder.

However, for soldering solid state electronics, I use fine lead/tin solder, because I don't want any tin whiskers to form on my work.  Unfortunately, most, if not all, of new electronics soldering is using lead-free solder, and it will form tin whiskers eventually, which will render the electronics useless when they short out.

For trackwork, models and structures and soldering wire to bulky metal pieces (such as to NS rail) the proper flux is essential...NOT JUST ANY FLUX (IMPORTANT).  Sure, you can use Plumbers Honey from The Home Depot, and it will allow you solder up a storm, but after a year (or less) your solder joint will start to corrode...and maybe the plastic ballast and ties will also start to be eaten away, along with any ballast or paint you've applied. If you want the very best soldering flux for soldering common model metals...such as brass, bronze, copper, nickel, tin, and pewter...buy and use Super Safe Superior No. 30 flux in either liquid or gel.  It will transform your soldering into a trouble-free experience.  Buy it and your solder here: http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/

I have used Superior No. 30 for over 25 years for all of my trackwork, and all of my brass models...and I wash my structures when I can, but for my track, I don't wash it and I have had ZERO corrosion problems with any of my solder joints.  Each and every feeder I soldered this last time was fluxed with Superior No. 30, and all of them are still secure on my portable layout, even after several thousand miles of bouncing around in the back of my Suburban and large U-Haul trailer being transported to and from various shows.

Just sayin'...

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Kisatchie]

Thanks for all the varied points of view on soldering. It really helps.


Hmm... Kiz just swore
off ever soldering...

[Kentuckian]

Sometimes I will pack wet tissue close to the target to act as a heat sink.  I also know that with proper soldering technique this is not needed.