Using Unitrack #4s for staging throat

[Carolina Northern]

Bob (Powersteamguy) is right, you can make a #4 as reliable as anything available.

If you want to increase the diverging radius, the #6's can be cut to fit in the same footprint keeping the spacing at about 1 1/2 inches. I have a six turnout ladder built like this.

I really hate to see the myth that these are expensive be repeated. The turnout with the switch machine is about the same as a code 55 turnout without any way to change it.

As for bullet proof. While it is true that they will not always stop a bullet, they will stop one bouncing off of Superman's chest. This is documented and Unitrack turnouts have stopped 100% of all bullets striking them after hitting Superman.

Don

[bman]

So I have to ask what is the advantage of the Kato #4 over the Atlas code 80 #4?  While I use #6's on my hidden track on my layout and I don't see why Atlas#4's wouldn't work just as well as the Kato #4's.  For that matter, wouldn't Atlas code 80 #6's give you a better spacing?  I've even converted 2 Atlas code 80 #6's to spring switches as I only run one direction through that end of the ladder track.  I would be concerned about 89' flats though.  And if you have to do something to Kato #4's to make them reliable then wouldn't the Atlas track make it a bit easier?  And there's a cost savings as well.  More money for bacon explosions.  Hint-hint.  But it all boils down to taking your time and laying the track carefully doesn't it?.  It does not matter what brand of track you use or if you hand lay it.  One can actually not lay Unitrack carefully and it will give you fits as well.  Seen it.  For me, it was a cost savings since I had a lot of Atlas code 80 in a box after I sold my house and my layout was ripped up for me. Don't ask.  I'm still in therapy over that one.  But my small wall hugging layout has Atlas code 55 on the show side and Atlas code 80(track that's well over 10 years old and having been re-laid a few times) that will be behind the as yet to be built backdrop. 

[sizemore]

Street price ain't so bad...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kato-20202-N-Gauge-Unitrack-Electric-Turnout-6-Left-R718-15-R28-1-4-15-1pc-/321616971745?hash=item4ae1dd87e1:g:VxAAAMXQw8hRahzm

...especially of you consider the cost of a standard code 55 turnout with Toulouse for remote staging.

The #4 has a $10 higher MAP than the #6 shown, street price is ~$26. Then tack on the cost of the controller too, at $7, then tack on $3 for the turnout extension cord (depending on distance). That's 33-36 samoleans for a single non-visible switch.

Compound that with the ease to replace it. I'm comparing it to Atlas Code 80, IMHO would be easiest/cheapest of all.

The S.

[Dave V]

Yeah, sorry, I shoulda checked.  However, I'm willing to pay a bit more for the reasons that have been elucidated here as are others.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

The big attraction is the integral switch machines.

If you think about the equivalent for a code 55 + tortoise installation, it's about equal. Now, yes, I have a stash of code 55 switches, but the ability to not have to worry about fitting the tortoises in the cramped space makes it an easy call.

[Carolina Northern]

S.
You're doing it again.

There is no way Ed would use the controller or the extension cord. Just trying to make it look more expensive.

In a yard, cut off the Kato plug - most people who use Unitrack do that anyway. A little solder you can make the wire as long as you want.

If you want a toggle to control it - a BCD circuit costs about $1.50 to build. If running from DCC, that cost would be there anyway.

If you don't want to use Unitrack - fine. Just don't exaggerate the costs to convince other people that it's wrong. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Actually... I might use the controller and extension cords. I actually really like the way that works. It's so simple!

[Carolina Northern]

And Fragile.

[sixpakpop]

I don't use the Kato switch machines. I use DPDT switches that I get off the bay for not a lot of greenbacks and wire them up like Mike Fifer shows.

http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/how_to_make_kato_turnout_contr.html

Then I mount them close to the turnout using brackets like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Corner-Brace-20-Pack-18589/202034303

[davefoxx]

Assuming that it will be a hidden staging yard, I applaud your innovative thinking!  There is nothing wrong with using bulletproof (solid and reliable) and modular (easily replaceable) turnouts in staging. AND YOU'VE GOT SOME GIGANTIC BALLZ TO EVEN BRING THIS UP ON TRW! 

I wouldn't go quite so far to say this is innovative thinking.  A lot of modelers I know have used different track in hidden staging (usually to save money).  For that matter, seusscaboose has those Kato crossovers on the tracks leading into Bellevue, and I'm sure no one has stoned him for doing so.

My earlier point was that an Atlas #5 would work better than a Unitrack #4 for your 89' flats, and it will be less expensive.  The use of slide switches for turnout control would work fine in that yard.  You don't need Tortoises for these tracks, especially since they're easily in reach once the operator crawls into the pit for this yard.  If the Unitrack #6s didn't cause such a problem with track spacing, I'd say go that route, if you're set on the ease and convenience of the Unitrack turnout with the integral switch machine.

DFF

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Oh, but I do need them remote... I'm planning on moving the throat further down, so I can have longer staging tracks.

I also want to, eventually, Hooke them up to decoders. But that's a 2017 project.

[Dave V]

I ran six-axle power through Kato #4s with zero issues.  Didn't try the 89' cars, but think about this...  The radius of the #4 is 481 mm or roughly 19".  I run my 89' flats on 15" radius.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Ok, I think that answers it then. I think that's the way I'm going to go.

[bman]

S.
You're doing it again.

There is no way Ed would use the controller or the extension cord. Just trying to make it look more expensive.

In a yard, cut off the Kato plug - most people who use Unitrack do that anyway. A little solder you can make the wire as long as you want.

If you want a toggle to control it - a BCD circuit costs about $1.50 to build. If running from DCC, that cost would be there anyway.

If you don't want to use Unitrack - fine. Just don't exaggerate the costs to convince other people that it's wrong.

I don't see where The S is exaggerating the cost.  Kato Unitrak #4's are more expensive averaging around $25 each from my travels around the web.  The Kato #6's and the Atlas code 80 with the electric switch machine are around $18 from that same interweb journey.  Atlas code 55 around $12 and you've gotta install a way to through the points(my personal favorite and I use the NJ International switch stands and hitting myself in the head with a hammer ) Ed did mention using the Kato number 4's instead of the Kato #6's due to track spacing.  Now if Ed were to use your example of making cuts to a #6 to change track spacing then the cost is pretty much the same except for time involved making the modifications. 

[jmarley76]

One of the big advantages is that they have integral switch machines.

That is exactly why I use them for my staging yard. I have had no problems with them...

Edit: 89' boxes and autoracks run just fine through them. Also, I have never done the modification that everyone suggests, so I don't know if i hve gotten a newer switch or just been lucky to not have a derailment.