Chain Link Fence

[jimmo]

When ordering this stuff don't forget that it has to cut it at a 45 degree angle or it will look more like hog fence.

[wazzou]

When ordering this stuff don't forget that it has to cut it at a 45 degree angle or it will look more like hog fence.

I saw this mentioned upstream a little but I wasn't certain, I understood correctly. 
... So, if you ask the manufacturer, they will cut it at a 45 for you?

[towl1996]

I am considering offering it through Keystone Details In 3, 4 and 6 scale  foot rolls.  The other thing is they will cut it parallel with the openings, I will have to re-cut it at 45 degrees.

@Lemosteam.  I'm a buyer.

[wazzou]

@Lemosteam - I think you should consider 8' heights also, if you are serious about offering this.

[MVW]

Well that's it then, boys. The days of the N scale open range are over. 

Jim

[Lemosteam]

@Lemosteam - I think you should consider 8' heights also, if you are serious about offering this.

@wazzou Yes I knew I should have included that.   

Still considering but I need some more Shapeways sales!  Lol.  I should probably order a swatch of the sixe I mention first.

[jimmo]

I saw this mentioned upstream a little but I wasn't certain, I understood correctly. 
... So, if you ask the manufacturer, they will cut it at a 45 for you?

I doubt it Bryan. I was just telling the boys to factor that in. BTW, scissors work best for cutting it.

[Lemosteam]

@jimmo Yes thanks for responding to that!

I did notice that they charge an exorbitant fee for special cutting.  At .0055 thick, a straightedge and utility knife should work just fine and it's not like I wont have lines to follow!

[jimmo]

@jimmo Yes thanks for responding to that!

I did notice that they charge an exorbitant fee for special cutting.  At .0055 thick, a straightedge and utility knife should work just fine and it's not like I wont have lines to follow!

I tried the drag cut--all it did was rip up the mesh, even with a sharp blade. The cut has to be sheared to maintain the pattern. I have yet to try a paper cutter but I see no reason why that should not work well as long as the mesh can be clamped in place as the shearing action will tend to pull the mesh.

I'm sure that a laser would work but I don't have access to one to experiment with.

[C855B]

Scissors. Good-quality scissors/shears. I have a pair of Fiskar shears that are da bomb for stuff like this.

From decades in and around the printing industry and cutters/guillotines, I've gnashed my teeth multiple times over the waste from poor cuts, especially given that the cutter is the last step in a long, sometimes complicated process. Paper cutters are notorious for being (or becoming) dull at the most inopportune moments. The shearing action is also non-linear, with tension variable down the length of the blade, with desktop cutters notorious for slipping in the middle of the cut.

[jimmo]

I used kitchen shears.

[Lemosteam]

All points taken gents!

I like Fiskars as a brand and use them all the time.

[jimmo]

I will definitely get a pair of Fiskars for the shop. I doubt that my wife would be onboard with me using her kitchen shears for cutting metal mesh.

[Lemosteam]

I will definitely get a pair of Fiskars for the shop. I doubt that my wife would be onboard with me using her kitchen shears for cutting metal mesh.

@jimmo Get a pair of these while you are at it.  Simply the most versatile cutting tool I own. Very precise control, especially at the tip, spring is not too strong.  Cuts, etched frets of any thickness, cluse trim of etching tags, (you can set the edge along the blade and cut the tag perfectly flush without deforming the part) sheet metal stock up to 0.25mm thick or more- wire cutting, styrene cutting, and they have lasted for nearly 7 years.  New pair in the drawer for when my current ones hit the crapper.



http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fiskars-Micro-Tip-Pruning-Snip/19792672

[jimmo]

Thanks John, I'll give 'em a look.