Has anyone done a sound install on a Kato NW-2?

[rhiadon]

So actually, I get no error or anything, just a blank screen. I want you guys to see it.


Now on to a project update...

So I hit a roadblock now but it's because I messed something up. This is a risky thing to do of course, cutting up a decoder. I think I may have busted the audio end of the board. I've got a few more ideas to try to see if it's the speaker or not.

Also, I really messed up the motor. It won't turn unless I either bump the shaft or crank up the voltage on a dc test rig. When trying to get the orange and grey wires on it, I melted the threading on the housing for the motor leads. The housing for that part is just plastic after all. I sort of managed to fix that and it would run, but only the way I described, at very high voltage.

Nest steps are to find another donor NW-2 or similar with a working motor and test another speaker.

Mistakes are great learning opportunities!

[rhiadon]

posting pic

[rhiadon]

second pic

[BobRunty]

Interesting, perhaps you could solder the motor leads to those clips that Kato uses and then snap them onto the brush caps, rather than trying to solder directly on the motor?

Bpb

[rhiadon]

Interesting, perhaps you could solder the motor leads to those clips that Kato uses and then snap them onto the brush caps, rather than trying to solder directly on the motor?

Bpb

That's definitely what I should have done. Learning.

I've ordered a replacement motor from Kato so I can do it right this time. I tried to find a used NW2 but no dice. A new motor was not ridiculously priced.

[peteski]

Rhiadon,

Interesting thread.

Would it be possible, when you upload the pictures could you post them as Inline full-size image instead of the default setting of end-of-post expendable thumbnail (in the pulldown, next to the field where you put the file name?  That way the photo will show up full size in your posts (instead of everybody viewing the post having to click on every thumbnail to see it in full size?)

[tehachapifan]

Did removing the top portion of the frame affect the secureness of the motor at all?

[rhiadon]

Peteski, I was not aware of this option. I will keep it in mind for the future so that I can be a good netizen. Thanks for the heads up.

Tehachapifan, When I was fiddling with this, things did seem a smidge floppier than with the top of the frame still in place. I've shored things up with some shims and now it all seems nice and stable as you'll see in the linked video.

These things do cog like mad at low speed. Is there anything that can be done to minimize this? Like lube or maybe motor settings in the decoder? This video is without any tuning to the decoder.

It seems to run well enough.

I've got an ESU loksound micro on order. It's a thinner decoder so I may not have to worry about that "GIANT" zener with ESU.

Anyway, alpha testing is complete. What do you think?

[peteski]

Sounds really good!  If there is any cogging, it is hard to see that in the video.  You should be able to mess around with the BEMF settings of the decoder to improve slow speed performance.

[tehachapifan]

Yes, it does sound great!

Now, if the LokSound decoder will allow the shell to seat all the way down, I will have to give this a try (it looks like it is not quite there with the current decoder per the above pic, no?).

[rhiadon]

Yes, it does sound great!

Now, if the LokSound decoder will allow the shell to seat all the way down, I will have to give this a try (it looks like it is not quite there with the current decoder per the above pic, no?).

You are correct, that giant zener just gets in the way of the hood. If I could desolder that component, then I could place it elsewhere with some wires. But with the ESU decoder, I probably won't have to do that. Then I'll have a spare.

I'll admit that modifying a decoder THAT much isn't appealing, especially when you don't have a good way to desolder that large of a component.

[peteski]

Are you sure it is a Zener (diode)?  Usually the chunkiest components on decoders are large-value tantalum (or sometimes electrolytic) capacitors. Their purpose is to filter the DC voltage or to provide some sort of keep-alive functionality.  I never seen any giant Zener (diodes) on any DCC decoders I ever worked with.

[rhiadon]

No actually I'm not certain. It could very well be a large value cap. I'm not one to actually recognize surface mount components, honestly. I'll do some research.

Either way, the component needs to be placed remotely to use the Econami decoder for this application.

Here is a picture. It's the component with the "22-25L F4" on it. I was assuming the line on it was indicating a diode.

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Picture could be good reference for those who might want to strip down an ECO-100 as well.

[rhiadon]

Found this:

https://www.garrettelec.com/details/details_specs.cfm?part_no=293D226X9025D2TE3

Seems to indicate that this is a 22uF tantalum cap rated at 25 volts. No idea what the F4 means if anything. I'm guessing the line indicates the negative terminal of the cap since they are polarized. Or maybe the positive terminal. Gotta get these things straight.

[peteski]

Found this:

https://www.garrettelec.com/details/details_specs.cfm?part_no=293D226X9025D2TE3

Seems to indicate that this is a 22uF tantalum cap rated at 25 volts. No idea what the F4 means if anything. I'm guessing the line indicates the negative terminal of the cap since they are polarized. Or maybe the positive terminal. Gotta get these things straight.

That makes more sense.  But 22uF 25V cap should be rather small.  Maybe it is a 220uF cap?  What is the marking? 226/25 or 227/25?  The F4 thing might be a date code, operating temperature range or some other manufacturer specific code.  The positive lead of a tantalum cap is usually identified by a bar on the case near the positive terminal. Like this:



This is a 100uF 16V cap.