Correct UP "system" logo decal?

[highway70]

Jake,

Although the cars "as built" had the metal shield with "System" in the upper field of the shield, if you have problems with finding or having that decal made for you, in 1936, PFE removed the word "System" from the shields on all of their cars, so running the cars with the later shield might be correct for an 18 year time period between 1936 and 1954 when the last R-40-1's were scrapped.



Bob Gilmore

Some probably had the "SYSTEM" shield after 1935.  Shield would not be changed until the car is repainted which likely would be years after the change for a very large number of cars..   

[SandyEggoJake]

Thanks Bob.  I'll try to keep you informed.  And while totally accurate, your suggestion will be of little help to me on my 1927 layout. 

While on the subject, according Tony Thompson, an expert in all thing PFE, the R-40-1 was Armour Yellow as built, but following 1929 saw an accelerated repaint program once the PFE adopted Light Orange (today is best known as Daylight Orange.)  Even so, PFE had a stricter timeline than most for repainting: 4 to 7 years on wood cars, 10 years on steel cars.  All or very nearly all PFE cars were orange by the end of 1934.

Right now, in addition to this snag for sourcing UP System logo I'm sort of stuck with finding the best way to modify the Atlas shell to include the R-40-1 W corner posts.  As such, this mod will sort of be recapitulating  Hendrickson's Westrail W corner post mod for the HO Athearn model.  He used resin, but I'm thinking I'll go with PE brass, in part as I already will need PE brass for replacement ladders, etc.

[up1950s]

https://charlesbreer.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_5042.jpg

[SandyEggoJake]

Sweet!  Now where did I put my crowbar....

Actually, I've some good news to report.

Clover House claims to have the correct UP System logo, in his PFE kit for the R-40-2, and as of now it is in stock in N scale (9206-01).  I've yet to see it on a car side to confirm, but Tom was kind enough to email me a pic of the pack.  His version is dry transfer...and what's more, with this one the modeler needs to do the color build up yourself (yep, a stack of 4 dry transfers applied over each other to get the UP logo).  So I think I can make out what he was taking about - though have no info on its dimensions to confirm accuracy. 

While it is an option to get the UP System logo, note it contains but 1 and only 1 logo in this pack.  And given it is a build up, not any room for error.  Also, this artwork doesn't have enough flexibility to do my desired renumbers nor flexibility for my date or my R-40-1 class. 

Soooo... I still likely need to make some custom decals anyway.  And if I do, I might include some prebuilt up UP System logos, as I already have the artwork. 

[Cajonpassfan]

Jake, somehow I remembered I had a car in  that scheme, just couldn't remember where
Apparently, I own too many cars... Tonite, I found it, it came out of staging and it's the old Rapido reefer! The car is a bit oversized, but the graphics are nice... The other side has the proper SP logo....not bad for a forty plus year old car...
Otto K.

[nkalanaga]

One of the earliest N scale models, and the only one that has that scheme.  I wonder what other prototypical oddities were produced on those early "toys"?

[SandyEggoJake]

Cajonpassfan, nice. 

You can find a builders photo of that very car number in Fig 131 of the Train Shed Cyclopedia no 3 (from the 1931 Car Builders Cyclopedia).

Not only does it have sweet graphics - the UP & SP are as crisp as any I've seen - far better than the current Microscale 60-4021 - but it seems to have the correct riveted corner brace on the ends.

As for the body, a bit of updating is all she might need -  replace the sturrips with something less bulky?  Add some detail under the frame (the famaous R-30-13 built up with bolster beams and cross members exposed, and perhaps a vertical brake wheel?  If you want to get serious, scrap the ladders and replace with chemically blackend grab irons, then paint black hinges.  If so, to my eyes, you'd have what would seem a very accurate R-30-13.

I'd take a dozen!

[wcfn100]

 If you want to get serious, scrap the ladders and replace with chemically blackend grab irons, then paint black hinges.  If so, to my eyes, you'd have what would seem a very accurate R-30-13.

A metal roof and hatch platforms as well.

Jason

[Cajonpassfan]

Yes, guys, all those are good suggestions. Unfortunately, the most bothersome problem is that the car body seems too big; it's 10' wide and 10'-4" over the eaves. The sides are just about exactly 10' high, and the car rides at 14' to the top of the running board (I did lower it and replaced the trucks and running board, decades ago). I don't have a copy of the Cyc, how does it compare? I seem to recall that I didn't want to put much effort into something that was going to be wrong...and I still don't.
Attaching a pic of it between MT and IM reefers.
Otto

[PGE_Modeller]

Otto,

From Fig. 125, p. 176 of the 1931 Car Builders' Cyclopedia - PFE R-30-13:

Height of sides - bottom of side sill to eave:  8'-10 7/16"
Top of rail to eaves:  12'-3 7/8"
Top of rail to top of running board: 13'-1 3/16"
Extreme height (top of brake staff): 13'-10"
Width over side sill angles: 9'-1 1/8"
Width over eaves: 9'-4 1/8"

Cheers,

[SandyEggoJake]

Yes, about 1.9 mm too wide and too tall.  And wcfn100 is right about the hatch platforms.  A metal roof is an easy fake; fill in the grooves with putty, then slap on some battens 2'11" scale on center.

So, ok... I'll only take ten!

All this has me wondering who makes the best N Scale R-30-13 today... 

[Cajonpassfan]

Thank you Greg, NOT
Well, that's exactly what I anticipated. So to make the body right, one would have to trim off a foot off the sides and cut it down the middle and sand 6" off each half, and then do the other mods already discussed. Hmm, that's a lot of work.
By the way, I discovered I own some of the other reefers made by Arnold in other schemes, and the detail on those is much more bulky and prominent....see photo. If one were to redo this car, starting with the newer version would be the way to go. The ART car is as delivered, except for MT trucks and couplers (and some 30 year old dirt).
I do thank you for taking the time to post the info; makes for better modeling...
Otto

[SandyEggoJake]

Heck with these cars... what cars?   I'm in awe looking at the details on your landscapes! 

[Cajonpassfan]

Lol Jake, that's the blooming desert for you, boring ol' Verdemont.
It's just a nine inch wide by thirteen foot long shelf at this point, where I daylighted the helix, see below.
Sometimes attempting to model the mundane pays off.
Appreciate the compliment.
Otto

[eja]

Clover House claims to have the correct UP System logo....

In my opinion, don't believe anything Clover House says...  I have never had a successful transaction with these folks.

YMMV ....