Spraying %$&#ing gloss!

[chicken45]

Josh, it looks like you are simply missing to spray certain areas on the 44-tonner.   When spraying any clear glossy paint it is important to have a logh source position in such a way that you can easily reflect it off the model's surface (to check that it is shiny and wet-looking) as you are spraying.  That will easily show any areas you missed and touch them up while the surface is still wet.

As far as Tru-Color paint colors go, see what looks appropriate at http://trucolorpaint.com/color-charts/
I wish they were selliing real color chips, but the PDFs are the only thing they have.

Yeah, I did, but I wasn't all that concerned. The prototype photo I was looking at was REALLY glossy on the top half. so I was less concerned with what was "below the waist." But I did realize after I started spraying, I should have done something about the railing. T'was my first time painting something with hand rails!

[dougnelson]

Josh:

I have had good success brushing on Future.  It has just the right viscosity to spread and smooth out.  Use a generous amount with a large soft brush.  One of the problems with spraying is that you can get partial drying while the particles are in the air resulting in thicked or bumpy finish.  Paint rarely is successful with brushing, but I think that Future works well.

Doug.

[chicken45]

Josh:

I have had good success brushing on Future.  It has just the right viscosity to spread and smooth out.  Use a generous amount with a large soft brush.  One of the problems with spraying is that you can get partial drying while the particles are in the air resulting in thicked or bumpy finish.  Paint rarely is successful with brushing, but I think that Future works well.

Doug.

I first started brushing Future on my flat cars and it worked ok. It was glossy and pretty smooth. The next car I did was worse. I think I used too little and it got dry and I got some irregular texture. Then someone said to airbrush it. I think I may go back to hand brushing.

Do you guys gloss the whole surface of what is getting decals? I don't want to glob on gloss in the center of a boxcar side and then have a "lip" visible after the decal and dullcoat.

[peteski]

I'll say it again - I simply use paints (Accu-Paint and Tru-Color) which dry to an semi-gloss finish and I skip the gloss entirely - decal right over the paint.  Then I cover the car with my custom mix of Dull and Gloss Cote which results in semi-flat finish. It is easier, I like the paints better and I have fewer coats of detail-hiding paint on the model. 

But if I had to used gloss for decal I would spray the entire model (or at least the entire side where the decal will be applied).

Doug, if any kind of paint being airbrushed is drying before hitting the model, then something is wrong with the spraying method.

[Santa Fe Guy]

I'm with you on this one Peteski. I would much rather use the Accu flex however it is getting hard to find here down under. saves a ton of work as well and the finnish is so much better.
Rod.

[chicken45]

Went to remove a decal today. This happened. What caused this?

The decal was applied over Future and removed with Solvaset one day later.

[peteski]

Solvaset attacked Future?

I'm an old-school organic solvent based paints addict. I have never used Future as a clear gloss on any of my models.  What brand is the underlying boxcar red paint?

If these were organic based paints I woudl try to spray some lacquer thinner over the blemish (or maybe even another coat of clear).  But if these are water-based paints I really don't know what (and if anything) might work.

[chicken45]

That the weird part. The other decals got bathed in solvaset.
The difference is it was lightly scrubbed with a brush to remove the decals.
The base paint is acrylic boxcar red.
I'll try to apply some more gloss tomorrow. All isn't lost as this will get the Mann Treatment.

[peteski]

What that looks like to me is that the Solvaset and scrubbing removed or dissolved the Future then it got some of the flattening agent from the color layer to precipitate to the surface. The flattening agent in flat paints is a very fine white powder (similar to talcum powder).,

[dmidkiff]

I've had this happen as well Josh when I scrubbed my first model with Future.  From my experience, Peteski is exactly right, the scrubbing removed the acrylic finish and you are seeing the paint and flattening below.  Clean the area with a mild soap and water and reclear, the Future should blend itself back in and you won't see the area.  I use MicroSol, not Solvaset, but I do always see a slight change in sheen while the decal is wet, once it dries, it disappears.

Doug

[chicken45]

Thanks for the help, guys!I'll give it a go again tonight.

[seusscaboose]

The forum proves useful again!!!

Hooray!


Although, as you said, if she's gonna be a dirty girl, then why spend the time on cleaning it up.... Other than for educational purposes of course

[chicken45]

Well now! That did the trick! Thanks, guys! Additional Future cured all. So much so, in fact, that I couldn't tell which one was messed up in the first place.

[central.vermont]

Any time Future is brought up I bring out this link.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
It's a great site on the subject with a lot of info.

Jon

[peteski]

Any time Future is brought up I bring out this link.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
It's a great site on the subject with a lot of info.

Jon

Yes, that is the reference to keep!
I wonder when he will rename it TheCompletePledgeFloorCareMulti-SurfaceFinish? 
Why couldn't they have left things well enough alone?  Future sounded so much better.