Bachmann 2-8-4 Berkshire/Kanawha in stock at M.B. Klein

[nickelplate759]

I used the 2-6-0 option and it worked OK, but to NOT write all the CVs from that option to your Berkshire.
Instead, *read* all the CVs from the Berkshire - you'll see that at least a few are different from what's in the 2-6-0 file.
After you do that, modify your CVs as you wish (John Colombo's recommendations are a really good place to start).

Regards,
George

[victor miranda]

read... ok did that...
that is why I am asking

I got a saw tooth set of CVs up to 106

I figured I should use a different decoder template?

[jdcolombo]

Here's what I did.


Put engine on programming track
Opened Decoder Pro
Selected 2-6-0 decoder from the Bachmann list
Opened full programming window
Entered new roster entry
Went to each page (e.g., basic, motor, etc) and clicked on "Read Full Sheet"
Saved values after each read
Then started process of changing CV's.  I do this with the engine on the main, running, using my Digitrax DT402 throttle.   When I've got everything running the way I want, put engine back on programming track, open new JMRI roster entry, read all CV's page-by-page.   Now I have both the original "default" CV's and the "changed" CV's as separate roster entries (which I name "759 default" and "759 Operational").

John C.

[Mike C]

Try adjusting CV 214 up a bit to see if you can smooth out the vibration without getting a hitch.  You might not be able to.

John C.

  Thanks John ! Increased CV 214 to 7 . The shake isn't gone , but its better .  I really like this Loco , now I just need to find someone to install sound in about another 6 steamers....

[victor miranda]

I'll try all that reading, that will take a bit o time.
 I do not generally run DCC...
so I have not a DCC throttle...

victor

[nickelplate759]

In DecoderPro3 at least you can just go to the CV tab in the Programming tool and hit the "Read full sheet" button, or use the "Read all sheets" button.

I use a Sprog II for ths programming - never tried a PR3.

George

[SkipGear]

At least all of them don't have a hitch. Of the two I bought, one is good enough that I won't bother with the quartering. The second I will have to fine tune.

[strummer]

Wish they could do a C&NW J class...

Mark in Oregon

[MVW]

Wish they could do a C&NW J class...

Mark in Oregon

+1

[sizemore]

At least all of them don't have a hitch. Of the two I bought, one is good enough that I won't bother with the quartering. The second I will have to fine tune.

But I think we'll find more with the hitch than without. I had three at one point and all three exhibited the issue to varying degrees. The real Achilles heel I feel is with the low precision nature and loose fit of the "jointed" side rods and quartering. If I didn't have a million and one projects on the bench I would attempt to make a single etched rod, and quarter all the wheels properly. A project for another time.

The S. 

[SkipGear]

But I think we'll find more with the hitch than without. I had three at one point and all three exhibited the issue to varying degrees. The real Achilles heel I feel is with the low precision nature and loose fit of the "jointed" side rods and quartering. If I didn't have a million and one projects on the bench I would attempt to make a single etched rod, and quarter all the wheels properly. A project for another time.

The S.

The second one that did have a hitch was a PITA to get right. I ended up adjusting #1 also. I also filed the rear driver pocket a little bit to place more weight on the #3 driver. Taking the weight off of the #4 driver helped with the hitch also.

The problem with a single solid rod is that the drivers need to be able to shift side to side and that limits the ability to do that. It also make quartering that much more important.

[jdcolombo]

The second one that did have a hitch was a PITA to get right. I ended up adjusting #1 also. I also filed the rear driver pocket a little bit to place more weight on the #3 driver. Taking the weight off of the #4 driver helped with the hitch also.

The problem with a single solid rod is that the drivers need to be able to shift side to side and that limits the ability to do that. It also make quartering that much more important.

Hi Tony.

Can you be a bit more specific about what you did to the #1 driver?  Did you adjust quartering on this one, too?   I'd like to gather as much info as possible about fixing the Berk's running qualities, because the engine has a nice level of detail, pulls well out of the box, the sound is OK out of the box (and can easily be improved with a speaker swap), and it doesn't have the LL Berk's tendency for the front driver to climb off the rails in curves.   It doesn't run as smoothly as the LL Berk, however, and I'm hoping that if we share our tips and tricks, we might be able to get it 80% of the way there.

John C.

[w neal]

Also, has anyone been playing around with the sound settings? Maybe its just me, but the thing sounds like an alco at higher speeds. I guess I'm just wondering about the "chuff" rate.

[SkipGear]

Hi Tony.

Can you be a bit more specific about what you did to the #1 driver?  Did you adjust quartering on this one, too?   I'd like to gather as much info as possible about fixing the Berk's running qualities, because the engine has a nice level of detail, pulls well out of the box, the sound is OK out of the box (and can easily be improved with a speaker swap), and it doesn't have the LL Berk's tendency for the front driver to climb off the rails in curves.   It doesn't run as smoothly as the LL Berk, however, and I'm hoping that if we share our tips and tricks, we might be able to get it 80% of the way there.

John C.

John,
 It was just a small quartering adjustment. After fighting with the #4 driver for 15-20 minutes and not seeing any real changes for the better, I looked to the #1 driver. It didn't take much but after a slight tweek to the quartering, then going back and fine tuning the #4 driver, it runs very smooth. I didn't adjust any of the decoder settings yet and it runs fairly well. Still not as smooth as a Lifelike but pretty darn close.

I still need to file the #4 driver pocket on the one that was smooth out of the box to improve traction. These things need to be able to pull a decent train for me and they are heavy enough to do it. I just hope the motor drive in the Tsunami can handle it.

[jdcolombo]

Thanks, Tony.

I've got one that is still running a bit "hitchy" after adjusting #4 driver.  I didn't see any obvious problems with the #1 driver, but I might play around with it and see if there is improvement.

Adjusting the CV's, particularly CV213 and 214, probably will get you further improvement.

John