3D Printed steam

[superturbine]

 Max as you suspected.  The motor would push through the cab wall into the boiler.  Only fix would be smaller motor.

[victor miranda]

I can't work miracles until I get my hands on it.

the motor is a piece of the issue.
the chassis length is an issue.
the rivets on the cab can be sanded.

the shell will make a good e6 top.

my outlook was that either the shapeways shell gets stretched a bit
or... a new chassis gets made.

this is not my idea of a great solution, however, b-mann's small 3 pole motor will fit.
.... as would the kato FEF motor.

in any case, the slightly preferable path is to stretch the shell. add about 3mm ?

at some point we may want to go back to the 4-8-4 that started this....

victor

[rschaffter]

Max as you suspected.  The motor would push through the cab wall into the boiler.  Only fix would be smaller motor.

Or lengthen the boiler.  Even if you shorten the motor, the firebox is still too far forward; it needs to be moved back about 1/3 of the driver diameter....

http://www.rwrightrr.com/images/prints/PREV_WEBSITE_20_PRR_1956-57/05_prr_pennsy_elmira_119_16.jpg

[mmagliaro]

Yeah, but the cab is right, and that would still be the limiting factor.  The Bachmann motor can only fit
inside that cab.  It can't extend out into the firebox.
Well, open your wallet and buy am 8mm Faulhaber.   That'll fit down in there and won't stick out.

[PiperguyUMD]

I have all of the items you have mentioned including the GS4 cylinders.  What other detail parts do you  need?

Before installation of details, why don't you primer and wet sand the boiler to hide the stepping?  It's a very nice design job btw!!

Jason Smith

Here is the type of bell I need.


Also, I'm pretty baffled by this stuff.  Other than the whistle and feed water heater, I don't recognize any of it.  Any help with this would be tremendous!


There are a few other odds and ends, like pop valves but I think I can get these from GHQ

Thanks!

[PiperguyUMD]

Made a little progress this weekend.  Two coats of Mr. Surfacer 1200 with some light wet sanding in between.  I managed to break the pilot off in the process Probably for the better, I need to find a way to mount it directly on the drive so there is some structural support behind the coupler





Also, the tender is here!



I have some Archer rivet decals on the way for the tender.  Printing less detail has drastically improved the surface quality.  With a little time and effort the surface quality is quite good.

[mmagliaro]

I never heard of Mr. Surfacer, but I looked it up after you mentioned it.  Fascinating stuff.

Is the 1200 like a super-liquidy "Squadron Putty" ?

You did a nice job on that shell.  It looks much better now.   Nearly all the striations and other 3d Printing
artifacts are gone.  A little of the edge crispness is lost (like around dome flanges and such), but overall,
I think it looks a lot better.  Nice work.

[wazzou]

It comes in 500, 1000 and 1200 which is in order of thickest to thinnest.  I use all three. 
I found a shop in New York that ships it.  I usually brush any of the three on.  I like it because it dries fast and can be wiped down with a Q-tip and lacquer thinner leaving behind whatever was filled after brush application.  It sands well and as seen makes a nice primer to fill scratches.
1000 and 1200 can be sprayed when thinned with thinner, obviously the 1000 requiring more.
Word of warning, this stuff is very pungent and requires good ventilation or a respirator.

[sizemore]

That J1 is SOOOOOOOO hawt! It doesnt matter than I am partial!


The S.

[Cajonpassfan]

Also, I'm pretty baffled by this stuff.  Other than the whistle and feed water heater, I don't recognize any of it.  Any help with this would be tremendous!


Thanks!

The round thing up top is the stack 
Ok, seriously, great progress so far. Keep it coming!
Otto K.

[rschaffter]

Also, I'm pretty baffled by this stuff.  Other than the whistle and feed water heater, I don't recognize any of it.  Any help with this would be tremendous!


There are a few other odds and ends, like pop valves but I think I can get these from GHQ

Thanks!

That's an interesting manifold. I don't think that's the whistle; that appears to be part of the feedwater heater supply.  They are using the handrail as the electrical conduit and you can see the junction boxes and the conduit to the marker light. The 'pipe' leading to the bell is a rope on the prototype. Here are nice 3/4  views...

http://www.leclairerail.com/Baldwin/0557wm1403highL.jpg

http://www.leclairerail.com/Baldwin/0558wm1403highR.jpg

Here is a general reference of locomotive piping...

http://mrr.trains.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Prototype%20info/2012/07/Understanding%20Steam%20Details.pdf

[arbomambo]

I never heard of Mr. Surfacer, but I looked it up after you mentioned it.  Fascinating stuff.

Is the 1200 like a super-liquidy "Squadron Putty" ?

You did a nice job on that shell.  It looks much better now.   Nearly all the striations and other 3d Printing
artifacts are gone.  A little of the edge crispness is lost (like around dome flanges and such), but overall,
I think it looks a lot better.  Nice work.

been using 500 and 1000 for years!...
one can actually airbrush it (thinned enough)....fantastic product, and really getting this printed shell to look great!!!!!
Bruce

[wm3798]

Beautiful.  Just beautiful.  To be faithful to the prototype though, you can only run it for 6 years, then off to the torch she goes!

Too bad one of these beauties couldn't be saved for posterity.

Lee

[PiperguyUMD]

Finally got a few free hours to do some more work on the Potomac.  Rivets, rivets and more rivets!  This is my first time using the Archer rivets and I've got to say, this is the way to go.  if you're dabbling with a 3D printed project, forget drawing the rivets, use these! 





I received a small bag of goodies from Bachmann so I added the tender light while I was at it today.  Once I ran out of rivets, I started working on fabricating and installing some of the grab irons





Cleaned up the pilot as well.  Just have to figure out how I'm going to attach it 



Turning my attention to the mechanism I filled down the N&W J frame to fit inside the shell and replaced the trailing truck with a Kato GS-4 trailing truck.  It was a pretty straight forward swap, just had to make a new drawbar for the truck.  Much to my surprise the holes in the frame that support the valve gear accepts the Kato parts!  I will have to fabricate a small piece that will attach the two cylinders to the bottom of the frame, but it shouldn't be difficult.



The exciting part is that I'm finally far enough along to see how this is all going to come together!  Still a lot of work to do, I think I'm going to be happy with the results!

[mmagliaro]

Love the rivets, and love all the separately applied parts.   Great model-making, man!
That boiler has really smoothed out and has nice crisp detailing on it.