Author Topic: Removing Kato N E8A Shell  (Read 561 times)

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wmcbride

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Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« on: December 08, 2014, 12:40:52 AM »
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Well, I've actually done this before years ago but I seem to not be able to do it now.

I was trying to remove the shell from my new Kato IC E8A in in order to install a decoder.

Why is it so HARD! :o :x

I've used toothpicks to separate the shell from the chassis and I can get the rear of the chassis down about 1/8" of an inch but the front won't budge. Cajoling, wiggling, threatening to magic it into HO scale has not worked. Is there some wondrous new thing I am missing in this issue or should I just call in the voodoo and march along smartly to bigger trains... ?
« Last Edit: December 08, 2014, 02:56:27 AM by GaryHinshaw »
Bill McBride

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2014, 04:24:36 AM »
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Well placed toothpicks should do the trick.

IIRC, you only need 2 (as there are only 2 latches on the chassis).  Having the loco upside down with the front facing away from you, place one toothpick on the right side in the front and on the left side at the rear.  But 4 toothpicks won't hurt either.  I suspect that you are just placing the front toothpick in a slightly wrong location.
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wmcbride

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2014, 11:49:41 AM »
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No doubt true. I initially used two toward the rear where there are dimples to hold the shell on. The toothpicks held the shell clear from the chassis and I could get the shell off by about 1/8" but there she stuck.

Maybe I will try the tried and true (at least for F units) method of an upside down Kato box cover and ift the loco up by the front and have the shell hit the edge of the box and gravity drop the chassis out. ...
Bill McBride

wcfn100

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2014, 12:00:43 PM »
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Make sure the toothpicks are separating the glass from the the frame and aren't going between the glass and shell.


Jason

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2014, 03:41:02 PM »
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Excellent point Jason - it is easy to stick the toothpick beteeen the shell and the "glass" piece (which does nothing to unlatch the shell).

I would highly discourage the "gravity method" . That questionable method is really for shells which are held by friction (dimples on the frame and depressions in the shell).  This loco (and most cab-type Kato locos) actually use latches. Which could be broken during that "gravity" operation.

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peteski

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2014, 05:43:10 PM »
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This is how it is done.

Exact toothpick locations.  Make sure the toothpick is inserted between the "glass" and metal chassis.  It should be pushed in until it rests against the metal tab on the chassis which acts as a latch for the notch in the "glass"
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Once the toothpicks are in place, gold the back of the body in one hand and gently pull on the front truck. The toothpicks will pop out and the shell will come off.  I use flat toothpicks.
--- Peteski de Snarkski

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davefoxx

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2014, 08:24:02 PM »
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If I remember correctly (DISCLAIMER: It's been years since I last did this), you also have to remove the front coupler to get the frame to drop out.

Hope this helps,
DFF

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peteski

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2014, 09:01:44 PM »
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If I remember correctly (DISCLAIMER: It's been years since I last did this), you also have to remove the front coupler to get the frame to drop out.

Hope this helps,
DFF

Thanks DFF - I'm pretty sure that you are right.  The unit I used in the photos above has been modified (has a video camera in the nose), so the front of the loco has been extensively modified (and the frame shortened). 
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wcfn100

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #8 on: December 08, 2014, 09:06:57 PM »
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The Fs need the coupler removed, I don't think the Es do.

Jason

wmcbride

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Re: Removing Kato N E8A Shell
« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2014, 10:02:10 PM »
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I got it out. I had the toothpick correct with the glass toward the rear but had it incorrectly placed by the front truck. It was still a tight fit and ahrd to get off but that did the trick - harder than I remember.

The front coupler is on the shell and does not need to be removed first.

Thank you all!
Bill McBride